|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-07-2008 06:36 PM|
If the oil is really thick when you drain it, you can add 50% ATF and 50% fresh motor oil and run it for 1/2 hour... the ATF is a thinner oil and will help cut the thick stuff.... then drain and replace with fresh. |
But only if you have to get the sludge out... otherwise I'd just run fresh oil....
|09-07-2008 06:23 PM|
|jhinderliter||flush it with clean oil|
|09-07-2008 05:54 PM|
|deathwish515||A word of warning about using motor flush in a bike. Make sure you get it all out if you use it. I have a friend that has a 95 GPZ1100 and he used Gunk Motor flush and did not get it all out of the oil cooler. Within 50 miles, he spun a bearing. Maybe the bearing was going to go anyway, though I doubt it, being a relatively low mileage engine. I personally would highly recommend against using motor flush in your bike.|
|09-07-2008 04:21 PM|
I'm planning on completely flushing out the oil in my 12R to help clean out any possible debris that might be a result of a recent fuel system clean (using a fuel additive).
The plan is to get hold of one of those 'oil flush' oil-additives that you add before draining the oil. Normally you add this to a hot bike and let it idle for 10 minutes. AFter that, I will drain the oil. Then I'm going to add some cheap car oil and take it for a 10 minute run to flush out any remaining dirty oil.
After that, I'll drain the oil again, change the oil filter and put in the proper oil. Hopefully this will be as good a flush as possible.
My only doubts are:
1) Using the oil-additive which is obviously meant for cars and not for wet-clutches (but hopefully the cheap oil will flush it out).
2) Taking the 12R for a short ride with cheap oil in it.
Any of you folks offer any advice?