Turbocharging by ninja on minimum wage - Page 2 - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #16 of 94 Old 07-21-2017, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Checking in again! Sorry for the long wait between posts. Doing charge piping now. Made from a single straight piece of 2 inch mild steel exhaust pipe. Will post more pics when fully welded and painted.

Hope these pics work. I think they are sideways for some reason.
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post #17 of 94 Old 07-22-2017, 07:59 AM
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nice onion slices. i do that to make tight radius bends sometimes.

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #18 of 94 Old 07-29-2017, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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I only just realised theres a typo in the title of this thread. Its supposed to be "Turbocharging MY ninja on minimum wage". Oh well.

Here's my progress in chronological order since last time:

Here's how I flattened the spigot faces. This took a long time and a lot of elbow grease but it worked. 40grit emery tape. Also welded them studs into the T2 flange there.


Not pictured I also cut up some bolts and replaced the manifold studs that were in the head. The old ones were about 5mm too short.

Next I got this oil cooler coolant return hose mounted on the front. It used to be on the rear of the radiator but it was in the way of the turbo. Since it was aluminium I could not do this myself so I had it sent away. So far the only thing I've NEEDED someone else to do. It was free for me but it wouldnt cost any more than $50 for labor.


The radiator ended up hitting the turbo so it will have to sit about 10mm further forward than stock. I'm a little annoyed at that. The mud guard was hitting The radiator but I have trimmed the mudguard and all is well. Didn't get a pic of that for some reason.

I finally took the throttle bodies off which wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but was still a bit of a pain. I was super-duper stoked when I saw this:


Why am I happy about that? That right there is what I would call a "capped" style injector. It means there is a plate welded over the tip of the injector which reduces the flow. Remove that plate and you've got a higher flowing injector with factory fit. Here's a better pic:


I had some other unknown injectors lying around and I decided to decap them. Here's what it looks like after decapping, before and after:


Basically you gently grind away the plate until it peels off, uncovering the bare pintle beneath. You dont want to touch the pintle with your grinder.


This technique is popular in the Subaru and Chevy LS worlds. Here's an example of an injector you could not do this to, this is out of my car:


So I will do that to the ZX12 injectors and of course get them flow tested.

Lastly, after trimming the rear of the mudguard, I got to work trimming the front because I always hated how ugly the 02 ZX12 guard looked. There's just too much meat. Grinder time.

Before:


After, sanded and ready for primer:


And mounted:


I think it looks a lot better than the Goldwing style it was before.

Next big thing is oil feed and return. I've ordered some fittings from ebay and while I wait for them I might paint the manifold, turbine housing and intake piping. Black for stealth. Gotta figure out a fuel pressure regulator too.

If any turbo/nitrous guys are reading this I have a few questions: What are you doing with the PCV system? Just routing it from the valve cover through a filter and to atmosphere? Secondly, what's the word on fuel pumps? Whats everybody running? Is it just a standard car-sized in tank pump? Will a Walbro 255 work?

Peace.
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post #19 of 94 Old 07-30-2017, 01:22 AM
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Hi YoWattup, can't you use the keen air pump to give you a positive vacuum for PCV, I read somewhere others have done this not sure what is involved in this procedure. Also sooner then later you are going to need to get creative with your fuel filter as in your case the pressure filter is part of the pump housing and can't be changed/replaced do a search on here and add a v6 commodore FI filter under the tank it fits neat and easy and cheap to change , if you need to do any mods to your pump use good submersible pressure hose, ask me why you ned sub hose and I will tell you a story about sitting on the side of the road middle of summer taking the tank off a 12 because some dick didn't use the correct hose, in the first picture this is your pump filter housing the filter is in that black plastic housing, 2nd and 3rd are commodore FI pressure filter Craig
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post #20 of 94 Old 07-30-2017, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoWattup View Post
I only just realised theres a typo in the title of this thread. Its supposed to be "Turbocharging MY ninja on minimum wage". Oh well.



Here's my progress in chronological order since last time:



Here's how I flattened the spigot faces. This took a long time and a lot of elbow grease but it worked. 40grit emery tape. Also welded them studs into the T2 flange there.





Not pictured I also cut up some bolts and replaced the manifold studs that were in the head. The old ones were about 5mm too short.



Next I got this oil cooler coolant return hose mounted on the front. It used to be on the rear of the radiator but it was in the way of the turbo. Since it was aluminium I could not do this myself so I had it sent away. So far the only thing I've NEEDED someone else to do. It was free for me but it wouldnt cost any more than $50 for labor.





The radiator ended up hitting the turbo so it will have to sit about 10mm further forward than stock. I'm a little annoyed at that. The mud guard was hitting The radiator but I have trimmed the mudguard and all is well. Didn't get a pic of that for some reason.



I finally took the throttle bodies off which wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but was still a bit of a pain. I was super-duper stoked when I saw this:





Why am I happy about that? That right there is what I would call a "capped" style injector. It means there is a plate welded over the tip of the injector which reduces the flow. Remove that plate and you've got a higher flowing injector with factory fit. Here's a better pic:





I had some other unknown injectors lying around and I decided to decap them. Here's what it looks like after decapping, before and after:





Basically you gently grind away the plate until it peels off, uncovering the bare pintle beneath. You dont want to touch the pintle with your grinder.





This technique is popular in the Subaru and Chevy LS worlds. Here's an example of an injector you could not do this to, this is out of my car:





So I will do that to the ZX12 injectors and of course get them flow tested.



Lastly, after trimming the rear of the mudguard, I got to work trimming the front because I always hated how ugly the 02 ZX12 guard looked. There's just too much meat. Grinder time.



Before:





After, sanded and ready for primer:





And mounted:





I think it looks a lot better than the Goldwing style it was before.



Next big thing is oil feed and return. I've ordered some fittings from ebay and while I wait for them I might paint the manifold, turbine housing and intake piping. Black for stealth. Gotta figure out a fuel pressure regulator too.



If any turbo/nitrous guys are reading this I have a few questions: What are you doing with the PCV system? Just routing it from the valve cover through a filter and to atmosphere? Secondly, what's the word on fuel pumps? Whats everybody running? Is it just a standard car-sized in tank pump? Will a Walbro 255 work?



Peace.






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post #21 of 94 Old 07-30-2017, 06:30 AM
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I'm running a Walbro in mine. 5 years later and still no issues.


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post #22 of 94 Old 07-30-2017, 06:38 AM
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These are pictures of my Walbro set up. Everything is in the tank and I used the stock electrical connectors.


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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him --- better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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post #23 of 94 Old 07-30-2017, 12:41 PM
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That is a different set up for pump to the 2002 onwards the later has the pressure regulator as part of the pump housing where the earlier models the regulator is on the injector rail, it seems like they went backwards with the later models, that white clip on the top R hand side is holding the regulator. I think You can still incorporate a hi volume pump into the later housing but not positive, you can still do something similar to what you did just need a tee piece in that hose and add the reg to the tee, hope everyone is totally confused now Craig
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post #24 of 94 Old 08-16-2017, 03:46 AM Thread Starter
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These are pictures of my Walbro set up. Everything is in the tank and I used the stock electrical connectors.
Cool. What model Walbro is it?

On with the update.

Finished the mudguard. Looks much better.



Drilled and tapped in the banjo bolt for the wastegate. Routed it around the turbo which I think hides the tube well.



WARNING! The following images may offend some people. Viewer discretion is advised.

The first part of the exhaust is done. 3 inch mild steel baby. It will be going into two 2 inch mufflers because its a street bike. In order to conform the 5 bolt flange to the 3 inch pipe I had to get a piece of 3.5 pipe and beat and cut the shit out of it lol. It's since been welded and all the holes and cuts filled.



Damn thats ugly, lol.

The silicon was not sealing to the airbox intakes at the the top and bottom of the oval parts. Solution: Hammer. Now it's more round than square-oval and it should seal. Needless to say I don't treat my vehicles like precious little flowers. I have an end goal and I need to get it done. Im not one of those old guys that's been "working" on his 69 Mustang 30 years. I want a goddamn turbo bike and I want it asap. However I'd still like to know how others have gotten their silicone to seal here.



Made my own oil drain flange for the turbo since all the ones I found were not to my liking. It looks ugly but for this setup it will work better than anything I couldve bought.


And I'll be using this old 7/8" handlebar as the drain. The idea behind such a large diameter drain is the the sheer volume of such a large pipe will act as a oil reservoir which are somewhat common on turbo bike builds. The idea behind an oil reservoir is that it lets excess oil produced under high rpm (that the drain wouldn't have the flow to return) pool up a little before it gets back to the sump. Hope that makes sense. Due to the positioning of the turbo and the sump return location, the angle of the oil drain is not ideal. It's more horizontal than vertical, so it'll need all the help it can get unless I run a scavenge pump which I dont want to do.


And an updated spreadsheet. Getting there.


I'll sign off with my favorite adage: If it looks stupid but it works, it aint stupid.

Last edited by YoWattup; 08-16-2017 at 04:15 AM.
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post #25 of 94 Old 08-16-2017, 04:32 AM
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My fuel pump is a Walbro GSS342. I used aircraft sealant in place of silicone on all parts of my airbox that needed sealed. It works way better. But I'm an aircraft mechanic and have access to it.


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post #26 of 94 Old 08-16-2017, 02:35 PM
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dont use those wide clamps. the thinner ones work better

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #27 of 94 Old 08-18-2017, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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dont use those wide clamps. the thinner ones work better
For the silicone? Im using 2x thin ones per coupling. Maybe I should just use one. Using some sikaflex sounds like a good idea too.

Also, I'd like to leave the current K&N air filters in the bike. Is there a particular way to seal them? Or just go nuts with some sikaflex?
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post #28 of 94 Old 08-19-2017, 12:18 PM
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Hi YoWwttup it looks like you favour the hammer in your tool box nothing wrong with that a little gentle tap here and there never hurt anyone, and one of my favourite sayings "if it can be fixed by a hammer the problem is electrical" it looks like you are developing new skills along with your build, it won't be long now the whether should start to warm and you will have a new weapon to welcome the sun and I'm enjoying your build looking good and Im learning a few things along the way Craig

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post #29 of 94 Old 08-20-2017, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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"if it cant be fixed by a hammer the problem is electrical"
Hahahahaha. I've not heard that one. I like it.

I've had a closer look at the air filters and decided to leave them be - they have a pretty good seal on them and I think they would hold my goal of 7psi. If not - Sikaflex

A few small updates:


I took a look at the throttle body bolts in my side-quest to seal the airbox. These thingymajiggers are what the throttle bodies fasten onto and are underneath the airbox/frame on the outside. I welded these nuts so they are airtight around the base. I will put rubber washers between these and the airbox on the outside. Finally I will use thread sealant and IF nothing fails it will be airtight.


There are also these little rubber whatchmacallits that hold the thingymajiggers on, that go through the airbox. These should seal on their own as they will compress and the seal will get stronger the more pressure is applied from inside the airbox. No need to touch them hopefully. Finally, the big-ass hole from the PCV return was plugged with a spare M18 O2 sensor bung I had and some sikaflex. Sealed from the inside. Again - more psi will make for a stronger seal here.

Dump pipe painted. See, its not so bad now?


A few pics of the setup as of today. Black rules!






You can see here what I was talking about earlier regarding leaving the oil filter+cooler alone. Messing with cars and bikes I learnt early on: If you dont f*ck with it, it'll stay together.


And here's what I did to seal the other stock intake for the airbox. No BOV here. BOV's are just another thing to fail. A hammer was used on this side to reshape too.


Oh yeah, and some fuel system stuff. Since mine is an '02 model, it doesnt have the fuel return hose. But after inspecting the fuel rail I saw that used the same casting for this model, they just didnt machine the threads/hole for the return fitting. So I after some drilling and tapping, the standard feed fitting fits right on. This will allow me to fit an aftermarket boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.




Left is feed, right is new return.


I got a spare set of injectors so if i cocked up decapping them, I had spares. Fortunately they were supper easy to decap and I didnt screw any up!


You wouldnt know they werent stock with the rubber caps on. BTW does anyone know what these caps do?


I will get the modified injectors as well as the stock ones flow tested to see how much more they flow and how the spray pattern compares.

Thats all for now.
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post #30 of 94 Old 08-20-2017, 09:51 AM
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She's really starting to take shape and looking good. I do recommend you direct the exhaust away from the side of the oil pan for a couple reasons. The first one is always safety related. If you pop the motor or the seals go out on the turbo you're dumping oil straight out the exhaust on to the front of the rear tire. That never ends well. The other reason is heat. You're dumping that exhaust out right next your oil pan and although I really don't think you have to worry about melting aluminum, the aluminum transfers heat exceptionally well so you will be doing a heat transfer to the oil in the oil pan.


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