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12R Refresh Project

13700 Views 148 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  SteveW
10
I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have read numerous great threads where people have done rebuilds or clean up projects.
Now its my turn!
These days I'm flat out with work, have a 3yo daughter to chase around and another baby due in about a month - I'm very time poor...
So I decided - I need a new project! 馃槅

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Vehicle


Over the years I've accumulated a heap of spare ZX12 parts, just because they're becoming rarer and prices for good parts is just going up.
Last week I spotted a 2004 B3 advertised on Marketplace - not running and no registration, a bit rough around the edges with a "fried ECU". Well good for me, I happened to have a spare ECU and key/lock set in the shed. The AUS/EUR 2004-2006 ZX12's have a built in immobilizer, so you cant just swap the ECU out and have it running. You need a matching key for it to start up.

I met up with the seller, it seemed as if someone had lost the keys in the past and an attempt to hotwire the bike was made.
First I installed the battery/tray from my 06 bike.
So I plugged in my spare ignition switch and ECU, cluster turned on, but there was still a fault light flashing at me.
I worked out quickly that the original ECU wasnt fried (it was in a box) but what was fried was the immobilizer antenna unit that sends the key information back to the ECU. This had been removed and opened - I'm guessing as part of the hotwire job.
Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Computer hardware Electronic component

I pulled the immobilizer antenna unit off my 06 bike and then the immobilizer fault codes stopped and the fuel pump primed. I wasn't too keen to fire it up yet as the fuel was pretty stale, and I was unsure what the tank condition was actually like.
Looking over the bike, I thought even if the motor was no good, I could probably make my money back by parting it out.
Its got a full Yoshimura exhaust system, Power Commander, carbon fenders, good Radial forks - etc etc etc
Title checked out ok, so after a bit of bargaining the bike was now mine.
I checked the oil and coolant, disconnected the Power commander, installed the fuel tank from my 06 bike and fired it up.
Seemed to be nice and smooth, no strange noises from the motor. A win I think!

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Vehicle
Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive lighting


Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive fuel system



Got it warm and dropped the oil. Also noticed the cam cover gasket is leaking a bit and making a mess, possibly the cam position sensor o-ring.
It had a 0004 oil filter - I haven't bought one of these since 2010, so that tells me the oil probably hasn't been changed for a very very long time.
Fluid Water Cylinder Drink Bottle


I had a look in the Oil for glitter, or any indications of metal - nothing visible to my eyes. I'll probably cut the filter open later for a look.
Fitted a new 0008 filter, sump bolt gasket and some fresh Aussie Penrite 10w-40 Synthetic Oil
Product Font Material property Fluid Wood


While I was doing this I decided to remove a bunch of little LED "show lights" that were on the bike. The fuse box was missing a couple fuses so I replaced them too. Tail light fuse was blown - strange...
I also pulled the Genuine air filters out, and checked the condition of the air box. Pretty clean. Replaced the filters with some cleaner low use OEM filters that originally came off my brother's old ZX12. Only other option I have here are BMC Race, but dont think this needs them yet!

Went to fire the bike up with the new oil. No go!
What? I hadn't done anything besides remove the LED's. I checked a few things, and nothing was out of the ordinary.
Fault code was showing Cam Timing sensor. Pulled the sensor out of my 06 and swapped them. Still no go.
Checked the wiring diagram in the Workshop Manual. Pin 12 on the ECU.
This is what I found -
Hood Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Computer hardware

Obviously part of the hotwire job. Tried to inject power from the tail light to the ECU - this explains why the Tail light fuse was blown.
Reinstalling the fuse was sending a dodgy voltage signal to the ECU. I cut the wire and the bike started again!

Put the original Cam pos sensor back in with a new O-ring.

Got it warm and just checked the TPS voltages.
This handy adapter from NinjaYorkie makes an easy job of it!

Light Electrical wiring Gauge Measuring instrument Auto part




Not much else done. I've got to come up with a bit of a plan for it.
Fuel tank and fuel pump is probably the highest priority to get checked out.
But I'm thinking for now, change the leaking cam cover gasket - while I'm at it check valve clearances and change spark plugs and the figure 8 gaskets.
Radiator and coolant flush while I'm at it.
Needs a new battery and tyres and I've got a few little parts to chase up.
Then probably fork oil, brake fluid, and check all bearings.
Besides the Chinese fairings, its in pretty good condition. The carbon front fender and rear hugger are pretty nice.
I do have a complete full set of genuine 04 Candy Thunder Blue fairing's I can put on this bike.
It will make a nice clean street bike. My brother is already talking about buying it off me - he sold his 2006 ZX12 a couple of years ago when he moved overseas for work, but due to Covid he returned home and is missing his old bike. I'll have a think about that...

Stay Tuned!
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Yosh pipe is nice! Ferrodo front rotors?? Awesome that it runs good ! Does it go through the gears?

cmg
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Any local welders? They could close up the holes easy. Or trace the oem plate onto a small sheet of tin. Cut it out, dill the mounting holes and sandwich it between the cam cover and the oem plate.
Cmg
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That is the satin finish fuel tank? My 2004 roller came with one. I think the finish looks excellent. My tank is not so good on the inside but very nice on the outside. First time I have seen a satin finish on a 12 tank.

cmg
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Looks like a good cleaning is in order too.
what is the verdict with the block off plates?
While you are in there you could pull apart the front motor mount and check the rubber dampers. Might be worn and loose.

cmg
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Break the dremmel and a flap wheel out and port match/open the factory velocity stacks? Unless of course you have a set of bear or muzzy stacks laying around.

cmg
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Just a thought, instead of spending money on the cam cover gasket, you could clean it real good and then order .5mm ss shims to go under the cam cover bolts. Here in the US McMaster Carr has a very good selection. Cheap too. Puts alittle extra squeeze on the cam cover.

cmg
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Steve, ngk plugs like most plugs direct NOT to lubricate the threads.

cmg
Font Terrestrial plant Monochrome photography Publication Document
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Inside the engine looks really clean, this has to be encouraging. Does this have the secondary butterflies in the throttle body?

cmg
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It would be cool making a throttle map that pours the throttle on real nice without overpowering first and second. Would be fun to work that control out with the secondary flies. I鈥檇 love to see the woolich flash project !!

cmg
Cam journals look nice. Motor in very nice shape.
thought of installing a intake cam on the exhaust side?

cmg
Very nice. Excellent pics too.

cmg
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Looks great. Cam gears appear new!

cmg
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Daughters bike has to look good too!
Nice work. The Braking rotor won鈥檛 clean up?

cmg
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Just need a few shims to use the 320s. Nice

cmg
Worst mud flap in the history of mud flaps.

Excellent work

Cmg
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Back in I think 2016 or thereabouts, Australian Design Rules deleted the need to have the rear mudguard / fender extend past a point 45 degrees perpendicular to the rear axle - in other words, not so bloody long!

Taken from ADR42:
  • The requirement for the rear mudguard to extend to a 45o angle has been removed in the latest ADR. Reducing the length of the rear mudguard to ADR 42/04 requirements is permitted provided it meets all the following requirements:
  • it continues to protect other road users, as far as practicable, against thrown-up stones, mud, ice, snow and water and to reduce for those users, the dangers due to contact with the moving wheels.
  • all brake, taillights and the number plate light are positioned in compliance to current ADRs.
  • the number plate is visible from 20m within an arc extending 45o to each side and above, and horizontally to the rear.
Having said all that, each state can make it's own interpretation to some degree!

Isn't the law just great!!
Lol
Unbelievable

Cmg
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