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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have read numerous great threads where people have done rebuilds or clean up projects.
Now its my turn!
These days I'm flat out with work, have a 3yo daughter to chase around and another baby due in about a month - I'm very time poor...
So I decided - I need a new project! 馃槅

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Vehicle


Over the years I've accumulated a heap of spare ZX12 parts, just because they're becoming rarer and prices for good parts is just going up.
Last week I spotted a 2004 B3 advertised on Marketplace - not running and no registration, a bit rough around the edges with a "fried ECU". Well good for me, I happened to have a spare ECU and key/lock set in the shed. The AUS/EUR 2004-2006 ZX12's have a built in immobilizer, so you cant just swap the ECU out and have it running. You need a matching key for it to start up.

I met up with the seller, it seemed as if someone had lost the keys in the past and an attempt to hotwire the bike was made.
First I installed the battery/tray from my 06 bike.
So I plugged in my spare ignition switch and ECU, cluster turned on, but there was still a fault light flashing at me.
I worked out quickly that the original ECU wasnt fried (it was in a box) but what was fried was the immobilizer antenna unit that sends the key information back to the ECU. This had been removed and opened - I'm guessing as part of the hotwire job.
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I pulled the immobilizer antenna unit off my 06 bike and then the immobilizer fault codes stopped and the fuel pump primed. I wasn't too keen to fire it up yet as the fuel was pretty stale, and I was unsure what the tank condition was actually like.
Looking over the bike, I thought even if the motor was no good, I could probably make my money back by parting it out.
Its got a full Yoshimura exhaust system, Power Commander, carbon fenders, good Radial forks - etc etc etc
Title checked out ok, so after a bit of bargaining the bike was now mine.
I checked the oil and coolant, disconnected the Power commander, installed the fuel tank from my 06 bike and fired it up.
Seemed to be nice and smooth, no strange noises from the motor. A win I think!

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Got it warm and dropped the oil. Also noticed the cam cover gasket is leaking a bit and making a mess, possibly the cam position sensor o-ring.
It had a 0004 oil filter - I haven't bought one of these since 2010, so that tells me the oil probably hasn't been changed for a very very long time.
Fluid Water Cylinder Drink Bottle


I had a look in the Oil for glitter, or any indications of metal - nothing visible to my eyes. I'll probably cut the filter open later for a look.
Fitted a new 0008 filter, sump bolt gasket and some fresh Aussie Penrite 10w-40 Synthetic Oil
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While I was doing this I decided to remove a bunch of little LED "show lights" that were on the bike. The fuse box was missing a couple fuses so I replaced them too. Tail light fuse was blown - strange...
I also pulled the Genuine air filters out, and checked the condition of the air box. Pretty clean. Replaced the filters with some cleaner low use OEM filters that originally came off my brother's old ZX12. Only other option I have here are BMC Race, but dont think this needs them yet!

Went to fire the bike up with the new oil. No go!
What? I hadn't done anything besides remove the LED's. I checked a few things, and nothing was out of the ordinary.
Fault code was showing Cam Timing sensor. Pulled the sensor out of my 06 and swapped them. Still no go.
Checked the wiring diagram in the Workshop Manual. Pin 12 on the ECU.
This is what I found -
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Obviously part of the hotwire job. Tried to inject power from the tail light to the ECU - this explains why the Tail light fuse was blown.
Reinstalling the fuse was sending a dodgy voltage signal to the ECU. I cut the wire and the bike started again!

Put the original Cam pos sensor back in with a new O-ring.

Got it warm and just checked the TPS voltages.
This handy adapter from NinjaYorkie makes an easy job of it!

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Not much else done. I've got to come up with a bit of a plan for it.
Fuel tank and fuel pump is probably the highest priority to get checked out.
But I'm thinking for now, change the leaking cam cover gasket - while I'm at it check valve clearances and change spark plugs and the figure 8 gaskets.
Radiator and coolant flush while I'm at it.
Needs a new battery and tyres and I've got a few little parts to chase up.
Then probably fork oil, brake fluid, and check all bearings.
Besides the Chinese fairings, its in pretty good condition. The carbon front fender and rear hugger are pretty nice.
I do have a complete full set of genuine 04 Candy Thunder Blue fairing's I can put on this bike.
It will make a nice clean street bike. My brother is already talking about buying it off me - he sold his 2006 ZX12 a couple of years ago when he moved overseas for work, but due to Covid he returned home and is missing his old bike. I'll have a think about that...

Stay Tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Steve.

Nice ride you snatch there.

(what a poor job, trying to hot wire the bike)

Bear
At least the Wiring loom isn't all butchered, the hotwire in the tail is the only part that needs repair. The hotwired ignition barrel wiring just unplugged and left no mess behind
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yosh pipe is nice! Ferrodo front rotors?? Awesome that it runs good ! Does it go through the gears?

cmg
Yes, while it was on the stand I ran it through the gears and checked that the clutch operated as well.
I didn't actually read any markings on the front rotors yet, I just assumed they were Chinese



Where's a good place to buy Kleen block off plates? Last couple of sets I bought from Muzzys, but they're obviously not around anymore..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good project Steve.
There's are a couple of rebuild/projects on the site now, makes for good reading after all these years!
Mine might not be as high performance as others, but it gives something to read at least!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looking forward to the next chapter of the project write up mate - just picked up an A2 off marketplace here in Perth also,requiring a set of fairing to complete and a few odd jobs like yours
Nice mate, I dont see many around Perth these days. Plenty of info on these forums if you get stuck with anything!
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Steve

Last time i used Driven block off:


Bear
Yeah cool, I've used a few of their parts before - I'll check it out

Any local welders? They could close up the holes easy. Or trace the oem plate onto a small sheet of tin. Cut it out, dill the mounting holes and sandwich it between the cam cover and the oem plate.
Cmg
I did think about that! It's nothing tricky really, but it is just too easy to bolt a set of ready made plates straight on! I'll see what's around in the meantime anyways..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was looking around for a replacement Immobilizer Antenna - seemed to range from $210 new from Kawasaki or approx $100 from ebay/wreckers.
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The unit is shared with some other Kawasaki Models from around that time period - ZX10/6/14, Z1000/750
I spotted an advert from someone in Sydney that had converted their 06 ZX10 to a track bike. He's selling all the road going parts, and gave me a really good deal on it - so its in the mail!
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Drained the fuel tank, its very clean inside.
Fuel pump has been replaced at some stage with another (used) OEM module, as it had ZX12 hand written on the side of the filter.
No crud or rust!
Put in a few litres of BP's finest 98 octane and fired it up. All good
I'm still considering getting the injectors cleaned and flowed at some stage... maybe...

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yes, same finish as my 06 as well. It's definitely nice.
To me, their intention was to match up the colour with the fairing infill pieces and the air intake below the headlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
A few heat cycles have revealed a few things.. That's ok, I know what bits I need to order 馃槑 cam cover was going to come off anyways which includes gasket replacement.
Radiator hose will be fun..

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You read my mind on both matters Henry!
Will be checking those front rubber mounts.

I do have a set of Bear stacks not sure if I'll put them in yet, but this is how they compare to the factory B3-6 stacks.. I may just use the dremel anyways and give them a go
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Regarding the gaskets though, I've already got a full set sitting here including the 7 bolt seals and spark plug "figure 8's"
Thought I'd just go new, seeing as I dont know the exact history of this bike. Mind you, it's only showing 39k kms on the clock..
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Everything got a clean..
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Chain is a DID VX, condition seems ok, not sure yet if I'll swap it with something more heavy duty. Gave it a good clean and spray with WD40.

Front fender and hugger are pretty sweet! Have very similar weaves and colour, I'd say they're from the same manufacturer. Bestem USA?
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I've done the same thing with using 2 of the oem washers under the cam cover bolts, works well.
Maybe next time I'll try that trick!
Looks brand new !
Just a bit of elbow grease.. Nice and clean to do some actual work now.
Havent decided on block off plates yet, probably easier to just order some :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Time to do some work..
Unplug everything, drain coolant
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Gave spark plug well holes a good blow out with the air gun and checked with an angled mirror before pulling the plugs out..
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New CR9EIA's to go in, I always put some anti-seize on the threads first
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Front engine mount rubber bushes are ok
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Cam cover bolt seals looking pretty sad, comparison with one that has had 24k kms use on my B6 (I've always renewed these after doing valve clearances)
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Ready to check clearances
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Inlet specs to be between 0.15mm and 0.24mm
4 - 0.15, 0.15
3 - 0.17, 0.18
2 - 0.20, 0.18
1 - 0.19, 0.20

Exhaust specs to be between 0.22 and 0.31
4 - 0.25, 0.23
3 - 0.28, 0.25
2 - 0.26, 0.22
1 - 0.22, 0.26

Think I will definitely swap the 4 that are on the bottom limits with thinner shims.
But MIGHT do 8 all up to balance things out a bit more...
The 2x 0.15 inlets, the 2x 0.22 and 1x 0.23 exhausts - I'd go for shims that are 0.025 thinner.
The 2x 0.20 inlets and the 1x 0.28 exhaust - I'd go 0.025 thicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Pulled the throttles out for a clean too
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Will send the injectors off for a clean and flow test, seeing as they have been sitting for quite a while with stale fuel
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Pilot screws were in at extremely different settings, pulled them out for a look - tips seem ok, will give them a good clean up and put back in with new O-rings
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yes that is good info Henry - and I have been told that in the past... I only put the slightest amount of anti seize on them.
I do think it helps out a little bit, they don't get tightened very much either.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I'm quite happy with how clean it is inside. Will be good for many miles to come!

Yes it does have the secondaries in there. I know a lot of people take them out, but now days with the Woolich ECU flash you can reprogram them and get them open sooner!
 
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It would be cool making a throttle map that pours the throttle on real nice without overpowering first and second. Would be fun to work that control out with the secondary flies. I鈥檇 love to see the woolich flash project !!

cmg
I've had a bit of a play with it on my 2006 bike, just need to spend a lot more time..
Also, just picture flicking a switch on your bars on the fly, and the secondary butterflies just go back to the stock settings again ;)
 
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