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12R Refresh Project

13893 Views 148 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  SteveW
I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have read numerous great threads where people have done rebuilds or clean up projects.
Now its my turn!
These days I'm flat out with work, have a 3yo daughter to chase around and another baby due in about a month - I'm very time poor...
So I decided - I need a new project! 😆

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Vehicle


Over the years I've accumulated a heap of spare ZX12 parts, just because they're becoming rarer and prices for good parts is just going up.
Last week I spotted a 2004 B3 advertised on Marketplace - not running and no registration, a bit rough around the edges with a "fried ECU". Well good for me, I happened to have a spare ECU and key/lock set in the shed. The AUS/EUR 2004-2006 ZX12's have a built in immobilizer, so you cant just swap the ECU out and have it running. You need a matching key for it to start up.

I met up with the seller, it seemed as if someone had lost the keys in the past and an attempt to hotwire the bike was made.
First I installed the battery/tray from my 06 bike.
So I plugged in my spare ignition switch and ECU, cluster turned on, but there was still a fault light flashing at me.
I worked out quickly that the original ECU wasnt fried (it was in a box) but what was fried was the immobilizer antenna unit that sends the key information back to the ECU. This had been removed and opened - I'm guessing as part of the hotwire job.
Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Computer hardware Electronic component

I pulled the immobilizer antenna unit off my 06 bike and then the immobilizer fault codes stopped and the fuel pump primed. I wasn't too keen to fire it up yet as the fuel was pretty stale, and I was unsure what the tank condition was actually like.
Looking over the bike, I thought even if the motor was no good, I could probably make my money back by parting it out.
Its got a full Yoshimura exhaust system, Power Commander, carbon fenders, good Radial forks - etc etc etc
Title checked out ok, so after a bit of bargaining the bike was now mine.
I checked the oil and coolant, disconnected the Power commander, installed the fuel tank from my 06 bike and fired it up.
Seemed to be nice and smooth, no strange noises from the motor. A win I think!

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Vehicle
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Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive fuel system



Got it warm and dropped the oil. Also noticed the cam cover gasket is leaking a bit and making a mess, possibly the cam position sensor o-ring.
It had a 0004 oil filter - I haven't bought one of these since 2010, so that tells me the oil probably hasn't been changed for a very very long time.
Fluid Water Cylinder Drink Bottle


I had a look in the Oil for glitter, or any indications of metal - nothing visible to my eyes. I'll probably cut the filter open later for a look.
Fitted a new 0008 filter, sump bolt gasket and some fresh Aussie Penrite 10w-40 Synthetic Oil
Product Font Material property Fluid Wood


While I was doing this I decided to remove a bunch of little LED "show lights" that were on the bike. The fuse box was missing a couple fuses so I replaced them too. Tail light fuse was blown - strange...
I also pulled the Genuine air filters out, and checked the condition of the air box. Pretty clean. Replaced the filters with some cleaner low use OEM filters that originally came off my brother's old ZX12. Only other option I have here are BMC Race, but dont think this needs them yet!

Went to fire the bike up with the new oil. No go!
What? I hadn't done anything besides remove the LED's. I checked a few things, and nothing was out of the ordinary.
Fault code was showing Cam Timing sensor. Pulled the sensor out of my 06 and swapped them. Still no go.
Checked the wiring diagram in the Workshop Manual. Pin 12 on the ECU.
This is what I found -
Hood Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Computer hardware

Obviously part of the hotwire job. Tried to inject power from the tail light to the ECU - this explains why the Tail light fuse was blown.
Reinstalling the fuse was sending a dodgy voltage signal to the ECU. I cut the wire and the bike started again!

Put the original Cam pos sensor back in with a new O-ring.

Got it warm and just checked the TPS voltages.
This handy adapter from NinjaYorkie makes an easy job of it!

Light Electrical wiring Gauge Measuring instrument Auto part




Not much else done. I've got to come up with a bit of a plan for it.
Fuel tank and fuel pump is probably the highest priority to get checked out.
But I'm thinking for now, change the leaking cam cover gasket - while I'm at it check valve clearances and change spark plugs and the figure 8 gaskets.
Radiator and coolant flush while I'm at it.
Needs a new battery and tyres and I've got a few little parts to chase up.
Then probably fork oil, brake fluid, and check all bearings.
Besides the Chinese fairings, its in pretty good condition. The carbon front fender and rear hugger are pretty nice.
I do have a complete full set of genuine 04 Candy Thunder Blue fairing's I can put on this bike.
It will make a nice clean street bike. My brother is already talking about buying it off me - he sold his 2006 ZX12 a couple of years ago when he moved overseas for work, but due to Covid he returned home and is missing his old bike. I'll have a think about that...

Stay Tuned!
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April is when I first tried to order a set of black hoses, but look what arrived today!
Had none in stock for quite a long time and I didn't want green or red. I kept checking back in with them now and again, stopped thinking about it and then eventually checked back in a couple weeks ago and here we are.

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Yes, they replace all the oem hoses. Good quality too.
Only issue I had fitting them was the hose from the overflow coolant bottle on left hand side. The one that fits to the top and loops back down. It was pressing against the fairing so I continued to use the oem one.
Yes, they replace all the oem hoses. Good quality too.
Only issue I had fitting them was the hose from the overflow coolant bottle on left hand side. The one that fits to the top and loops back down. It was pressing against the fairing so I continued to use the oem one.
Hi - is the issue with the overflow hose incorrect length or design?
Happy New year
Hi - is the issue with the overflow hose incorrect length or design?
Happy New year
OD Thickness of that particular hose is the issue..
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I wonder if AS3 is aware of this?
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Why did go with as3 vs samco?
Because they're 1/3rd of the price?
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Because they're 1/3rd of the price?
Very good choice, have some ones but in green :) Fits perfect and works perfect also :)
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Finished some other projects and given the shed a bit of a clean up -
Time to get stuck into this 12 again. Might even try and make some noise in the next couple of weeks!
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Haha LOTS
I've got a pile of parts waiting to be fitted still...
So radiator/hoses first. Then should be right to fire it up.
Forks, steering bearings and brakes will follow.
:cool:
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And it runs! :D

First things first - I had a little bit to do to get it there..

#1- A while a go, I did post that my front engine mount rubber bushes were ok. But I was only comparing them to the out of shape bushes that I'd previously replaced on my 06 bike a couple of years ago. These were cracked and a little loose.
Cant buy them new anymore, the part number is only listed for the 2000-2006 ZX12's.
Muffler hanger bushes are shorter. Could potentially work but would leave a gap in between to fill. Also if doing this, their metal sleeve is looser on the engine mount bolt, so would need to reuse the sleeves from the original engine mount bushes.

I jumped onto a website of an Aussie suspension bush supplier and did a dimension search...
These are the closest I could find - they're Poly urethane. Flange thickness is the same, ID and OD are the same. But overall length is just slightly longer. And they come with a metal sleeve.
Brand is SuperPro and part number is SPF1276K - pack of 4 bushes with 2 sleeves.
Automotive tire Blue Wheel Automotive wheel system Circuit component


Blue Azure Yellow Cylinder Gas


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Original sleeves fit perfectly (shorter than the bush)
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I ended up getting the dremel out and just skimming a couple of mm off the ends to match the length of the original rubber ones.
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All torqued up and fits great :cool:
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This means its time to refit the radiator!
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New O rings, thermostat and 2 bolts for the thermostat housing. I snapped one of the top housing bolts when removing it, the other top one was a little worse for wear, but the 2 bottom ones were ok. New ones come with a yellow sealant paste on them. My installation plan was these 2 new ones would go at the bottom where it goes into the block. Top 2 bolts I cleaned up with a wire wheel and put on a dab of blue thread lock.
Wasn't an enjoyable job reinstalling - my hands are too big for the space!
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New Oring to go under the water pump inlet pipe
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AS3 Performance hose kit, I also ordered the complete rolled edge stainless clamp kit to go with it.
If anyone's interested in sourcing their own clamps, the sizes are:
6x 30-40mm, 2x 25-35mm, 4x 14-22mm, 4x 11-16mm
Electrical wiring Cable Wire Electrical supply Electronic device


Installation wasn't too bad, just had to pay attention to orientations of the clamps
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I ordered the reservoir tank overflow hose before even looking at the AS3 kit, because the original had been chopped. Glad I did....
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... because the silicon overflow hoses are just too chunky -
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It's just too tight fitting everything in this area. I'd seen other forum members comment on how it was a bit frustrating trying to position them.
They're not under pressure, so I'm not worried about these smaller rubber hoses bursting and the 2 I reused look to be in good condition still.
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Suzuki fan switch - Turns the fans on 5deg sooner than the factory switch. This suits the B model radiator thread size.
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98on for factory switch, 93on for Suzuki switch:
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New rubber flap that covers the coils/cam cover. Most people tear or "lose" these..
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Couple of rivet screws that hold the plastic cover to the radiator
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Genuine 'R1' cap from Yamaha.... $50 for a Kawasaki one or $19 from the Yamaha dealer?
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Everything's routed and ready. I filled it with plain water for now. Will do a couple of heat cycles for a flush and drain and will go with a good 50/50 coolant mix.
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Was missing this little rubber plug at the back of the air box for some reason?
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I didn't take any pics of the throttle body and velocity stacks reinstallation... pretty straightforward.
New foam seals for the airbox covers though. I'd prefer rubber O rings though?
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Rubber would still flatten, but probably more suited to reusing?
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Anyone happen to have a spare wiring harness bracket for me that normally bolts on here? :LOL:
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These late B model TPS covers always seem to loosen up and fall off
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Just need to get a little cable tie looped around the back here to help it stay put
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Yep, I reused the oem coolant overflow hose as the AS3 replacement hose is too chunky, would press out the top of the side fairing.
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Nice work !! Thank you for the Part numbers and suppliers . Excellent help. The mount bushings are perfect.

cmg
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Always happy to help out mate
Don't ask how I found this, but I did 😆
Usually included with Kawasaki clutch cables for most models and not shown as a separate part..
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Bit tight but its done!
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Someone on the AUS ZX12 fb page had a post regarding fuel filters - well as we know Kawasaki dont list these separately for the 02-06 ZX12, but Suzuki do list them for the VStroms and Busas.
Well it seems there's someone in China that now makes them.
For $45 AU on ebay, I thought I'd buy one and have a look.
Externally, looks identical. Includes the Fuel pressure regulator (stamped 300KPA) and holding clip. Quality seems ok...
Internally... dont really want to cut it open to compare haha, but I'll put it in this bike anyways and test it out.

Jump on ebay and look up "15410-24FB0" which is the OEM Suzuki part number.
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Can just ignore these 2 threaded inserts. The Suzuki's and Honda's use them to mount their fuel level sensors, whereas ours are a separate assembly.
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