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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Pulled the clutch apart to diagnose an issue that I was having. When I put everything back together and torqued it all down I noticed that the pusher rod has (what I believe) a lot of freeplay in it. I took a video and uploaded it to YouTube so that you can see what I mean
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As far as the internals, everything appears to be within spec according to the service manual. Clutch pack height is sitting at 57.1mm, all friction plate thicknesses are within spec, steel plates are not warped or discolored, springs are within spec, needle bearing chamfer is facing the right direction (chamfered side towards engine), and the spacer between the bearing and pressure plate is there with no damage. I do need to replace the pusher rod as it has rounded off on the inside edge and caused some wear on the release lever, but my main concern is to determine if this amount of freeplay is normal.

Thanks in advance,

-Chris
 

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Push the puller rod forward. Should be pointed at this cover bolt.

If the puller is pointed to the left of this the clutch stack is to short. If to the right, to tall.

cmg
that pic looks familiar :rotflmao:
 

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Push the puller rod forward. Should be pointed at this cover bolt.

If the puller is pointed to the left of this the clutch stack is to short. If to the right, to tall.

cmg
that pic looks familiar <img src="http://kawasakiworld.com/images/smilies/rotflmao.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Rotflmao" class="inlineimg" />
Only the best!!!!

cmg
 

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its actually ok to have the cable with thatt many threads showing at the bracket like that? i have been trying to adjust my clutch freeplay since i got the bike. the puller lever and clutch cable adjustment looks exactly like the picture. i guess its normal then?

oh..I dont suppose anyone has a good picture of how the clutch cable should be routed by chance???? It would explain why i have a 4 5 mm of freeplay at the clutch lever up top. makes the crash into gear but still bike shifts just peachy. then again I have yet to shift at full throttle or redline because i dont want to go back in time. (actually no safe place to go fast here) sorry for reordering this thread but im still learnin. thanks all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info everyone. I had to wait for a new pusher rod an clutch rod to come in (mine were worn down). After reassembling everything I checked the angle according to CMG's photo and it turns out my stack must be a little short since my clutch rod was to the left of the bolt. I'm ordering a new set of clutch plates and would appreciate recommendations. OEM ones are pretty pricy (about $330 from my local dealer) but a set of Barnett plates are about $260. I've ran Barnett in my other bike, but wanted some opinions on running them in the 12.

Thanks again,

-Chris
 

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I havent run them, just oems and cycle concepts steels
if the fibers are in spec you can mix n match thicker steels to bump up the total height without needing a complete new pack. std steel plates are 1.6mm. you can also get 2mm and then cycle concepts has 2.3 and 2.6. i used to use some of those thicker sizes drag racing
 
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