[Yelmster]

Hi! My names Aaron and this is my first post .. Ever so here's my issue.. I have the 77 kz650 c model .. And I restored it back to life iv replaced ignition coils, ignition points and condensor, I've checked rectifer and regulator and it was charging at the time the bike WAS running.. So anyways I decided bike runs real good (drove 200 miles) but small hesitation at take off so i decided to sunc carbs with vaccume gauges and to my surprise they were way off.. So anyways my point is I started adjusting when bike warmed up it took a long time but I eventually got it I though then bike would Idle but not by itself if I didn't give throtle (ran real good and responsive) but it dye so I figured I'd take a break for the day do the next day same thing but real real hard to start ! Finally got it but ran so bad popping from exhaust and carbs.. So now my bike won't start at all I checked plugs they looked a little black but not to bad so I replaced then still no start it sounds like it want to but no go then I checked voltage its good 12.7v so I pulled plug after several attempt of kicks tarting and found plugs s little wet with fuel (normal) so I'm thinking spark issue? But I pulled plug and kept it in spark plug wire and it sparked maybe weak not sure so Im really stumped to what it could be.. On another note when I pull throttle while kick starting sometimes it will fire up real quick for a sec then pop out of exaust and carbs and die throttle wont help ?? I'm stuped I know the three major components air/fuel/spark I beleive I have fuel and iv cleaned carbs.. I also have spark (maybe weak) and air I don't believe it cause this stubborn issue iv even tried spraying starting fluid nothing? Please help sorry for long summary

 

[IWasBlitz]

Put your post through a spell checker to show me you are not a troll and are serious and I will give you advice.

 

[rundog]

What did you set your ignition gap at? Are the breakers tight? Exactly how did you clean the carbs?

 

[Yelmster]

Rundog I set them I believe 0.18 it was about two months ago but I looked at them last night and they still looked in same position also nothing loose. And I didn't dip carbs I just took everything apart carb clean and air compressed.. Like I said Monday bike was running good then I decided to sync carbs and a few revs and now 100 cranks later nothing

IWasblitz, sorry just frustrated and was at work..

 

[Yelmster]

What did you set your ignition gap at? Are the breakers tight? Exactly how did you clean the carbs?

Rundog I set them I believe 0.18 it was about two months ago but I looked at them last night and they still looked in same position also nothing loose. And I didn't dip carbs I just took everything apart carb clean and air compressed.. Like I said Monday bike was running good then I decided to sync carbs and a few revs and now 100 cranks later nothing

 

[Yelmster]

Put your post through a spell checker to show me you are not a troll and are serious and I will give you advice.

IWasblitz, sorry just frustrated and was at work..

 

[Yelmster]

The only other thing I can think of is at one point, when syncing the bike revved really high rpm on accident.. Due to me having one of the sync screws to tight pushing open throttle .. Which i cut it off assp. Could that have throw out valve adjustment? I know this could cause hard starting and back firing out of exhaust and carbs...??

 

[my12r]

It's an old kawasaki....you ain't gonna hurt it revving it "way" up...My buddy had a 1980 CSR650....which he floated the valves on constantly. He buried that tach on that thing every shift...:lol:....replaced the tach cable at least every month or 2. They are pretty bullet proof.

Check your work. If it ran before, and it don't, stands to reason something from there to now aint right. Might be something small that was overlooked....

 

[rundog]

The only other thing I can think of is at one point, when syncing the bike revved really high rpm on accident.. Due to me having one of the sync screws to tight pushing open throttle .. Which i cut it off assp. Could that have throw out valve adjustment? I know this could cause hard starting and back firing out of exhaust and carbs...??

A possibility. A compression test will let you know. Another thing to check is the rubber tubes that you pulled to do the synch and the intake manifolds for cracks or tears.

 

[Yelmster]

It's an old kawasaki....you ain't gonna hurt it revving it "way" up...My buddy had a 1980 CSR650....which he floated the valves on constantly. He buried that tach on that thing every shift...:lol:....replaced the tach cable at least every month or 2. They are pretty bullet proof.

Check your work. If it ran before, and it don't, stands to reason something from there to now aint right. Might be something small that was overlooked....

Thanks! yeah I was thinking the same .. Pretty bullet proof, I keep telling my self it's something small .. But I'm in sneering so I'm not able to diagnos anything right now..

 

[Yelmster]

A possibility. A compression test will let you know. Another thing to check is the rubber tubes that you pulled to do the synch and the intake manifolds for cracks or tears.

Thanks yeah I checked don't see any obvious cracks.. But I'll re-look

 

[rundog]

Air leaks would make the bike run bad, but wouldn't stop it from running at all. You say the only thing you did between the bike running good and not running at all was a synch? Any chance the ignition coil inputs got switched? It's been about 27 years since I've had a 650, but my first four bikes were kz650s. The only time I remember mine acting like that is when I switched coil inputs.

 

[Ted Edwards]

If you still have the points fitted, It might be a condenser. i had a similar issue with an old triton that I had in 1975! Bike ran great, next morning popping and banging and no run, weak spark and traced it to dodgy condensers!
I replaced the ignition on my KZ650 with a Boyer Branson system and never looked back!
Only other issues with the KZ650 were the rectifier shorting out in the rain due to it's location under the battery box in front of the rear tire and hard to start after a long hot hard run and trying to start up after filling up with gas, Basically too hot for the fuel to get to the pistons without vaporizing in the inlet tract. Either wait for it to cool down or i used to bang some choke on and as soon as it fired, choke off and off we jolly well went. I averaged 18K+ every year. Regretted selling her, but a Ducati 900SS was calling me! LOL
Regards Y'all

Ted

 

[rundog]

While we're thinking about it.........

 

[Yelmster]

If you still have the points fitted, It might be a condenser. i had a similar issue with an old triton that I had in 1975! Bike ran great, next morning popping and banging and no run, weak spark and traced it to dodgy condensers!
I replaced the ignition on my KZ650 with a Boyer Branson system and never looked back!
Only other issues with the KZ650 were the rectifier shorting out in the rain due to it's location under the battery box in front of the rear tire and hard to start after a long hot hard run and trying to start up after filling up with gas, Basically too hot for the fuel to get to the pistons without vaporizing in the inlet tract. Either wait for it to cool down or i used to bang some choke on and as soon as it fired, choke off and off we jolly well went. I averaged 18K+ every year. Regretted selling her, but a Ducati 900SS was calling me! LOL
Regards Y'all
Ted

Thanks I'll look up how to test the condenser again, even tho there not very old .. To be honest I'm jelous of ur dacati!.. Iv owned only street bikes such as 2006 cbr and 04 gsxr .. So this is my first vintage bike but iv learned a lot and I'm still learning but I'm not a total dummy lol

 

[Yelmster]

Air leaks would make the bike run bad, but wouldn't stop it from running at all. You say the only thing you did between the bike running good and not running at all was a synch? Any chance the ignition coil inputs got switched? It's been about 27 years since I've had a 650, but my first four bikes were kz650s. The only time I remember mine acting like that is when I switched coil inputs.

No nothing switched but I'm going to check condensor (test) and check gap again tomorrow otherwise I'll update u ! Thanks do much for the time and help

 

[Yelmster]

While we're thinking about it.........

Kawasaki KZ650 1976 Motorcycle - YouTube

Just watched video awesome ! Makes me have more of an appreciation

 

[Yelmster]

Ok so update went to look at bike for very short amount of time and pulled # 1 plug and cranked I had blue spark but intermittent some cranks sparked some didn't? So I pulled #2 plug(different coil) and same thing good spark but intermittent some cranks spark some not.. So I look at points hmm look ok but I'll have to get a gauge to measure .. Does any one know what specs the points are suppose to be on 77 kz 650 I forget .. And I tried cranking and almost wants to start but no go

 

[rundog]

Ok so update went to look at bike for very short amount of time and pulled # 1 plug and cranked I had blue spark but intermittent some cranks sparked some didn't? So I pulled #2 plug(different coil) and same thing good spark but intermittent some cranks spark some not.. So I look at points hmm look ok but I'll have to get a gauge to measure .. Does any one know what specs the points are suppose to be on 77 kz 650 I forget .. And I tried cranking and almost wants to start but no go

I can't swear to it, been so long, but .030 keeps coming to mind. Just searched it. the range is 030 - 040.

 

[hubz14]

Spark plugs are more at a .030"-.040" gap. Usually a points bike is someplace under .020" is my recollection? So my guess is that if a Honda CB750-F ran a points spread of between .012" to .016" or .014" is the gap you start out with.

If the rubbing blocks wear out, you have to spread the gap past .016"? It says to replace that set of points if you have a number measured past that gap.