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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I really wanted to build a turbo bike after seeing a few about at meets. I was planning on selling my 12 and buying a bandit to boost. Then I came across "budget turbo build" on this forum which gave tons of brilliant info and it looked cheaper/easier in my view.
After a bit of research I decided to keep the 12 and turbo it.
So sized a turbo using the garret app. Then picked a cheap one of eBay that had a similar map and ended up with Volvo td04-13t.
This is a small turbo with wastegate and blow off valve integrated into the compressor housing.



Got this for 50 quid off eBay.

Then these zx14 injectors for fueling for 15 quid. Proper bargain.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The aim is to keep the turbo up nice and high and return the oil back into the side of the sump without the use of a pump, and not remove/relocate the oil filter/cooler. After removing my muzzy exhaust I positioned the turbo and worked out some angles and positions.






Then I positioned it in a final location after looking at the exhaust run and the inlet through the fairing and made this.














I am not a welder, but I made and shaped all the sections to fit. Happy with the position. Short radius 1.5 inch stainless bends and some straight pipe. Flanges are mild steel. I would make the cylinder head flange from thicker 5-6mm plate instead off 3 if doing it again. 3mm distorts to much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pulled the turbo to bits and it all looks good. Rotated the bearing housing etc to get the angles needed to line it all up and T water feeds in the position.





Cut a flange and got some 3" stainless exhaust to come straight off the turbo and follow the path of the original pipe back.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Put everything together. Got a oil feed line made. Pulled the 3/8 plug from the oil gallery opposite side to the oil pressure sensor. I drilled and tapped a 3/8 plug with a 12mmx1.5 tap for banjo fitting to match the turbo. Hose has same 12mm banjos each side.

Plumbed into the water feed to the oil cooler. For the water feed to the turbo.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Made some little top hats for injectors. And refitted them into the fuel rail.



Switched round the wastgate actuator to the exhaust side and made a bracket to mount it. I had to cut the arm off the waste gate on the turbo and weld it back on 180 degrees around to make it fit.



Blocked off the holes in the plenum



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Cheers lads. I reckon it was close to 420 quid. I didn't buy the power commander. It was already on the bike. Biggest cost would have been the manifold and exhaust but these where fabbed at work. The turbo and injectors where proper eBay bargains.

I have ridden it. It turns some heads. Its not been past 5 k or 20 % throttle as still tuning. The map is Rich as boost is starting to climb I am getting 9.0:1 AFR so I back off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Will stick it on the dyno when I can't tune it anymore. I am only expecting 225 bhp max, would be nice if it was.

Just been out for a play, getting braver with the throttle. The blow off valve sounds fantastic.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Motor is still completely stock.
I am only running the stock Volvo wastgate which is set to 4.5psi. I am using v-power only and tuning it rich, will see what happens, 98ron

Will do some saving and perhaps change the pistons out over winter............

Yep, some chap turbo out there. I went for a second hand Volvo/Mitzi turbo rather than a Chinese one........
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes I agree. The manifold is not designed for max power.............quick spool up.

Been out today doing some fine tuning. Its lifting the front wheel already in second......Woohoo......


Looked a tad rich at that point so being careful........
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
It took about 3 months on and off.

Blocked the filter up with some silicon and some tick walled rubber pipe. I cut it slightly oversized so it compresses as it went in. Pushed them in with some silicone and passed the original bolts over the top. Figure the pipe will act like and o-ring and just seal tighter with low pressure I am using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
OK, I am at the point where I need this on the dyno. I have the all the cruising speeds sorted. Low gear acceleration is OK.

I am tuning with camera mounted on the tank with throttle position marked and AFR meter. There is too much vibration through the tank and running out off road to tune it any further.

Will see if the dyno man let's me take some vids. Next week I hope.
 
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