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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. Ive read all the threads but cant pinpoint my fault. I removed the stator plug as i read about it nd had to brake i open but found no oil. I saw no charging. If battery reads 12V after start it stays 12v. I changed the rectivier with a secondhand one but the yellow wires were burned as they were brown. I measure 78 to 80 vac at stator. I measured the yellow wires across and found between .3 and .5 ohm. Measured individually to earth test fine. Please help dont know what next.

Many thanks..

Oh its a 2003 12 if it matters
 

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Firstly, I am NOT an auto-electrician, secondly any advice I give has been gleaned from years of dealing with the same problem and picking other people's brains/expertise. I am currently having a professional motorcycle auto electrician rewind and rewire my OEM stator to a more suitable power output, and attach heavier duty stator cabling. The aftermarket OEM style stator I put on about a year ago has already burnt out! but he believes the OEM stator has superior components so is using that. Also he is going to source a Japanese made MOSFET reg/rec as he suspects the Chinese MOSFET ones are suspect too! He believes the stators can suffer from the protective 'gum' around the stator windings to sometimes be too hard and become brittle and crack after so many heat/cool cycles from use. He will redo the OEM stator with American sourced 'gum' (or whatever it's called) which stays more elastic to cope with the heat/cooling cycles. The heaver gauge stator cabling to the reg/rec should help to keep the oil out and handle the heat.

Stator should read between 85 to 120 V AC when checking the three lines from the stator. This could be your first sign somethings wrong; have you had a look at the stator to check for burnt out phases? The 'gum' used on the stator windings may look blackened and hard/cracked. The resistance readings I take are from the reg/rec, which seem right according to the manual. However if the wiring has looked burnt or discoloured then I would suspect a crook reg/rec.

It really may pay to have a professional look at it or at least get new parts so you are starting from a known good base.

Good luck and report back on what you find, others should post in to give you good advice that may help you!

Cheers,

Don.
 

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What is your exact battery voltage when fully charged? 12.0V means your problem is there.

Next thing I would do is to test the battery with some old 50W car bulb to see if the voltage drops much below 12.0V; my "fresh" battery went in 5 mins down to 10.6V so my problem was much nearer than I could believe.

Also the important thing to do is to check all the groundings.

Btw. still running on original reg/rec eventhough I snitched spare part from old 9R for testing purposes. And if it ever stops working, I'd recommend Rick's mosfet as replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi guys. Yhanks for the reply. Even though you say your not electrician I saw you in alot of posts thanks for the great insight from both of you. The batyery tested out fine but was 12v as I was testing alot. I didnt xplain my fault clearly sory hate typing on a phone. My issue is agter replacing the rect I got a 13.6 output. But when I pick up the revs she drops toe 12.8. Instead of picking up.
The stator output is between 76 an 80vdc compare to my zx9 87vac. The insulating gel in the stator wiring looks fine think I just caught it before all the headlight drama and all that. But my ohms between stator wires worries me between .1 and .3. Should be between .3 and .5 ive read somewhere. Will keep this updated as I go along. New statot here cost 5500 and rec 2100. To xpensive to buy both if only 1 might be the issue of the voltage drop.


Thanks guys
 

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As the RPM picks up, it generates more AMP's so the voltage can drop to compensate.
 

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At 4k rpm you should read 14.5~15.4vDC at the battery. Your stator is NOT putting out enough voltage. Sounds like your rectifier is working, but there is not enough voltage for it to go up. As stated, your stator output should be 85~120vAC at 4k rpm. Your problem could be a bad winding OR weak rotor. When you are at speed, the bike is using all available voltage from the stator to keep the bike running. There is not enough extra to allow for it to charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I agree the charge has to go up opon revving. I understand the bike needs the v to run but it draws that from the battery after the charge. The v shouldnot drop from idle 13.6 to 12.8. The headlights dimm when you rev her up. Wish I could pinpoint it exactly. My bike shop says stator is fine. I struggle to beleive them they say anything from 50vac and up is good enough
 

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You are correct in that the bike is running off the battery. If your charging system was fine, you should be able to disconnect the battery while the bike was running and the bike should stay running. Your shop is wrong about the stator voltage. The FSM indicates the stator is at fault below 85vAC. The only reason I say the rectifier may be ok is because you are up at idle. It is doing it's job at this point. Once load increases, it cannot keep up. You could try a battery replacement, as it is a cheaper option than a stator winding, but a new battery is not going to change stator output.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all your patience guys. Had the batyery load tested and tested out fine. Terminal off while running and she runs.. sent the stator away for teatimg. Wish had a service manual a very kind man from this site sent me one but in rar format not pdf dont have the software to open it. Will post once I get feedback from this shop. Thanks again
 
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