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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So just as i thought i was going to finally get some seat time in on the 12 again, I get another issue. Got this one on video as well at the time of occurence.
Now, since it is giving an Fi code i think I should start there, but i have no idea how to pull it.
The bike can start up fine all be it not running all cylinders, and eventually throws the Fi code again.
Right now i have my PCV hooked up, no ignition module, no QS. It has the Lithium battery in it at the moment. Not sure if a fouled plug could cause it to throw an Fi code? Additionally, right before it got funky and threw the Fi code, youll see the dash actually got brighter, then dimmed to the normal level when the code was thrown.
 

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You need to download the service manual and read up on checking fault codes. On Facebook, most of the zx-12r sites have the manuals at the top in the file section.

If it is a power supply problem then the Fi light might be coming on because of it. But if it's a failing stick coil you need to get that sorted first to lessen the chance of it toasting the ECU.

Also if it's a power supply problem, I would disconnect each of your accessories one at a time including the PC5, and see if that cures the problem.
 
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I don't know about Lithium batteries but I wouldn't think so.
When using the digital thermo be aware that certain parts of the exhaust headers will be cooler than other parts due to fresh air being sucked into the exhaust headers via the secondary air system, between 1and2 and 3and4 So measure in a few places, not an easy thing to do.
 

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Not that this will help much, but I carry a short piece of electrical wire with bullet style ends in my bike tool kit.
If I need to source an FI code I just plug one end into the FI test wire located on the right side of the subframe in the foam connector holder, then ground the other end to the subframe, turn on the ignition and count the dots and dashes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pulled the coil out and i think i know what happened
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Rim

This is the inside of coil 4, notice the brown coloration....
Hoping the coil is still good, just wondering how the hell water could get in there.
Im guessing this is what fried my QS which fried everything else i had hooked up
 

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Zx12r s are notorious for the valve cover gasket’s leaking. Also the spark plug galley hole gaskets letting oil into the spark plugs.
 
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Check for engine coolant in #4 spark plug well. My 2002 had a porous cylinder head casting that allowed anti freeze to enter the well and short out the coil. Since I purchased the bike used in '04 Kawasaki denied liability ( After having me take the bike to a dealership to verify the problem instead of telling me up front they wouldn't honor it ). Reminds me of my '91 ZX11 with the jumping out of second gear problem that turned out to be miss manufactured second gears that just happened to be EXACTLY 1 mm. too short when compared to the new one. ( pardon my rant ) Back to the ZX12R, I fixed mine with one pellet of GM block sealer and it still runs great today ( although I bought a spare cylinder head just in case! ) Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gonna check for antifreeze in the plug galley, there is a chance of it. I had the valve cover oil leak remedied by have sealant around the perimeter of the cover, but I never did it on the plug seals which i did replace so possibility of that.
 

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I think a bike sitting on the side stand for a long period, out in the weather without being started for a while can have water pool in that well hole. That's the actual issue. Possibly missing the rubber flap that sits on top too..

1-4 below

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Haha you are correct about the cover not being in place, kind of a hassle to leave it in.
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Plug #4
I try not to ride it in the rain and I cover it up at work regardless of weather, but I guess this must have been from way before I stopped taking it in the rain. Replaced the plug, waiting on replacement coil Monday, hopefully its just a fried coil, picked up nothing on my multimeter although the multimeter might be a lemon too.
 

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Riding in the rain is fine, the heat evaporates the water.. It's the long term pooling that gives it enough time to cause corrosion
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well fingers crossed it just the coil and just a one off hiccup, those are the original coils on it and this bike isn't exactly new. Really not excited about tracing any wires in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ignition coil arrived and bike is running on all 4, yay. However, it seems as of late with every problem solved there is a new wrench thrown in the works. While test riding I noticed my rpm signal cutting in and out on my POD. Went and reached out to dynojet and was informed of two things of significance. One, the PCV pulls that signal from the fuel injector pulses, and two, these older bikes DO NOT like lithium batteries. I have reason to believe this whole spout of issues stemmed from said battery. As of putting my old lead acid back in, the signal became more consistent however it did still drop intermitently. The issue comes when you are riding and the signal drops, the bike stumbles, which leads me to believe the injectors are having issues, and this is reinforced by my O2 sensor momentarily reading lean during the stumble. Unfortunately, fuel injection is a very foreign concept for me that i have very little understanding of aside from the basic concept, so again I ask for guidance on where to go from here.
 

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I have Anti-gravity AG-801 batteries in 4 zx12rs. Zero issues. I have used Ballistic batteries in the past. No issues. I have not used a lead acid battery in my bikes since lithium ion batteries have been available. Close to a decade now.
All my bikes use a KZScott flash and pc3s and now pcV. No issues.

cmg
 
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