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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I planned on getting some stuff done on the 14r this morning. I wanted to wire in a power outlet, clean the air filters, change the oil, check all nuts & bolts, and a few other things.
I watched the video on youtube several times just to be sure I knew what I was doing. I got started and it happened. The tab in the mid-panel broke clean off. It was a very clean break, I was able to put the tab in place and it looked great. I thought I was going to have trouble with the grills, but they weren't too bad. I finished all the work I had planned and in the process I connected the power outlet to the jumping starter wire. I figured since it already had a fuse it saved me the time of taking the battery out and fitting another set of wires under the terminals. Now the jump starting wires can be used to power my outlet normally, and also to charge the battery during winter.
I figure I can't be the only one that broke a tab. So what is the best way to fix it? What product should I buy and once fixed will it stand the pressure on future removal/reinstall?

Thanks
Lou
 

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Hello Lou, after looking for similar repair work on the rear seat cowl tab on my 12 some years ago I came across a site (don't know it anymore) that suggested buying a container of ABS Solvent Cement (250mls). I also added a small block of ABS plastic I purchased from a plumbing/pipe company to add to the container as recommended to 'thicken' the stuff. I have used this on a few occasions with success and actually need to do it again on another rear cowl tab that broke a week ago!

This stuff seems to work well and forms a strong bond. I have also used it to 'form' tab bits where I couldn't use the original broken bit.

May be called something else in your part of the world, here it is called :

EURAPIPE (AUSTRALIA) ABS - abs solvent cement 250ml bottle, contains 720grams/Litre Methyl Ethyl Ketone.

It may pay to do a search on using this stuff for ABS repairs as I can't recall if I had to add any extra acetone or only the extra ABS plastic block. Look up ABS repair on the net.

Hope this helps.

Don.
 

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This stuff is called, 'amazing goop' brand glue in a tube. The marketing says marine, or plumbing, but it's the sameshit iniside. Home depot, Lowe's. Off the top of my head, the meguyveer pops up a tab, it's a coke/beer top pop ring?

I was thinking like, trace the break of the tab and panel ; cut the soda can out; pound flat the aluminum; tape the paper trace over the aluminum flat; razor cut-[out] the aluminum backing; glue cutout over the back of the panel and tab; poke a hole when setting up or still soft in an hour [or less] say? It's a bitch when working with this stuff dry [in any way].

The aluminum cutout might need another backing when dry? The longer the glue sets up over 24 hours or more, you make that call if it's still floppy. More dry time the harder it sets up. See my 2 ideas off a soda can?

You would have to shape your cutout with as much surface across the back, if you ever saw a 'fender washer,' being larger than a normal washer. This is to spread the surface tension out. This is the same deal using a lot of material.

The other part is how you can glue and press out the excess of the first cutout. Lay the next aluminum sheet as a double strengthening value is the next layer. I'd glue the beer tab and bury it with glue: since I don't know how much damage the tab is in? Work with the glue before you work the repair. You'll see the glue settle out so another layer or 2 will be that move, etc.

I'll bet you bust the other side of the other cover that lays over the repaired one, it's that strong you figure out better ideas.

Signed,

NOLTT
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hubz, I read your post several times just so I would understand. You are basically saying to use the coke can opener metal flap to reinforce the tab from the back while gluing it using the amazing goop? I was unable to find anything that stated the the amazing goop was as strong or stronger than jb weld. I am also a little reluctant to use anything other than fiberglass to reinforce the tab from behind just from a clean looking perspective. Now I have not done this in the past so I may be completely wrong in how I approach this and I welcome the experience of others to guide me to a simple clean solution that lasts. So I will consider and test the solutions on crap abs plastics first to see which one turns out better for me. My question & concern is whether there is a product that I can simply glue the tab back in place without using any reinforcements so that the tab can look as original as possible. If this is not advisable than I will consider some reinforcement.

As I stated the break is very clean and not noticeable from the front when the tab is placed back on by hand. so if I can keep it clean it wont bother me too much knowing that I broke it, lol

When the panels are put together do you think the stress and vibration exceeds the jb weld 3200 psi strength tension?

Thanks for all your information,
Lou
 

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When the panels are put together do you think the stress and vibration exceeds the jb weld 3200 psi strength tension?
Remember, the beer pull tab is 'I have no clue what kind of break the fairing part has?' The beer can sheet is more a washer and you add metal sheet as reinforcement layers using the glue. Your cutout is shrunk and never extends out from the plastic piece. It's more you are making a cutout fender washer with lots of surface tension spread out from the eye of the fairing piece you bolt it up against. A layer if glass is going to push the faring out? Fit and finish means the glue is thinner than JB or glass mat, so less push via the selected backing = Glue is thinnner.

JB will not hold a bowling ball, a TV, a this or that you keep adding heavy parts glued to each other, that is no BS what it can do. You take a bat to the bowling ball, you'll crack the JB and off goes the ball. With the glue, you either bust the bat, or crack the ball, but the glue will keep the crack in place, the rest of the ball is gone. Work with it so you understand the product.



3200 psi is what? A pull apart? Crush? It's brittle so it will break at the tab again. Goop is forgiving so a bend will bring the tab back, let it flex, is forgiving. Buy jb weld break some plastic. Buy goop, glue it with support like I suggested. Fiberglass is over engineering it, may melt/soften the fairing part? Goop is removable you mess up. Glass is permanent and needs grinding off you mess up. JB is a joke and not for flexing parts, but more hard, like aluminum or castings, etc.



 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was at home depot today and picked up the goop, same stuff you posted. I also picked up several pieces of plastic. I plan on breaking it and gluing pieces with both to see which is easier to work with and which will hold better. I guess i should also test for flexibility like you mentioned
The piece that broke is the eye tab that the tank cover connects to at the mid section. So you are most likely correct that It will flex. If I don't completely screw it up I will post up the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well as you stayed hubz14, the in weld didn't hold when flexing my test piece. It held strong if I just pulled but when I wiggled it back and fourth it came apart. Next I'm going to try the goop to see if it does better under the same condition.
 

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I've tried a LOT of different repair methods on ABS Lou and was never satisfied.

No matter what I did or what I used the repairs never lasted.

So.... I started digging deeper.

Look up 3M Automix 8235 Plastic Repair. It is not cheap but your repair will be stronger than the material around it.

Even though I switched over to Catalyst Composites fiberglass on my 12 years ago, this is the stuff I wish I had known about when I still had ABS.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've tried a LOT of different repair methods on ABS Lou and was never satisfied.

No matter what I did or what I used the repairs never lasted.

So.... I started digging deeper.

Look up 3M Automix 8235 Plastic Repair. It is not cheap but your repair will be stronger than the material around it.

Even though I switched over to Catalyst Composites fiberglass on my 12 years ago, this is the stuff I wish I had known about when I still had ABS.
Good to know. I have time on my side since its winter here so I started a list of products to try before I really need to fix it in the spring. Next on the list is goop followed by Q bond, and after that your suggestion. I'm really hoping to find something that will work. I refuse to believe that there isn't something that works.

Lou
 

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Plastex works really well. I repaired a missing part on my zx12r last year and it still holding up. It's been painted. It cost 40-50 buck but it save you a lot of money in the long run trying to buy used ones and still have the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Here is the list so far. I already tested JB weld and will not be using that as the solution.
• JB Weld (clear, 3200 psi type cost $5
• Amazing Goop cost $5
• Q Bond cost $24\kit
• 3M Auto Mix 8235 Automix™ Semi-Rigid Parts Repair 08235, 200 mL
Cartridge cost $41
• 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive
4693H Clear, 5 oz tube cost $16
• 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Structural Plastic Adhesive DP8010 (Off-White),
35 mL cost $32
• Plastex cost $14 .
 

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3m duramix 4247. Its fast..really fast. I work in a bodyshop and we make tabs for bumper, headlights, grilles with it daily. Spendy but amazing! About a 30 second work time. There is also an aerosol adhesion promoter for the raw plastic end you're grafting to. I'm sure there's probably a youtube video for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hubs14, you are correct, but the small investment I make now finding out what works will save me the cost of the panel the next time this happens. Plus, I have time on my hands now.

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #18
3m duramix 4247. Its fast..really fast. I work in a bodyshop and we make tabs, headlights, grilles with it daily. Spendy but amazing! About a 30 second work time. There is also an aerosol adhesion promoter for the raw plastic end you're grafting to. I'm sure there's probably a youtube video for it.
I did see the YouTube video's. 3m has a slew of products ranging from $20 to$400. I won't spend hundreds but I don't mind something around $50 for a solution I can count on.
Thanks
Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just finished testing the Amazing Goop. While it held stronger than the JB weld, it did not last long. I applied a little pull pressure and wiggled it. After 3 wiggle attempts it came apart. For general purpose I would consider using the goop over the jb weld. On to Q Bond now. lets see how this holds up before I need to spend a bit more for the 3m products, lol
 
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