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Hey people, I'm in the process of getting the 12R track ready. More so of a road racer. I need some advice on calipers that bolt on the a1 2000 model that are better than stock.

Also, what's the best way to redo the forks. Rebuild stock with new valving , springs and oil or buy a set of ohlins somewhere. Also what's the best rear shock. I'm about 235lbs.
 

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Hey Mate, there are not much to choose from calipers in good price.
You can look for Nissins 90mm but Im not sure if that will improve a lot.
Best choice its 4 piston ones with adapters or some aftermarket ones.

Forks with rebuild should work better than stock for sure.

Best rear shock... it depends from budget. You can choose Hyper Pro, Ohlins Wilbers,
every aftermarket shock will be better. Im using Ohlins and its pretty good.
Only issue I had with, it was broken spring preload adjuster.
 

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The 12 doesnt need any upgrade to ride on the fast group.Keep your cash for tyres.Once on the fast group you'll need a couple of front tyres and a rear before the track day ends.

But since you have no track experience you wont wear the tyres you wont push the bike so hard so do not bother to buy anything,except for a screwdriver to adjust your suspension.

Anything you know for road riding doenst apply on the track,just follow the advices the track master will tell and be gentle on the gas.

A fork/shock oil change befor the track is always a good thing to do!
 

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I usually have no problem at all with the standard 6 pot Tokico calipers that everybody seems to hate. On track days however, they do fade a lot later in the sessions when they get hot. Stopping a big old 12R from a long straight makes some heat!
Definitely get a 190/55 rear. The first track day I did on the 12R, I did with the 200/50 Avon Storm that I bought with the bike. It was like cornering a cruise ship :eek:hno:. Next day out was with 190/55 Pirelli DRCs, that was fun! Still not track bike cornering, but a 12R is NEVER going to be a really great track bike.

Mine's a 2003 B2H, 22000 miles, standard suspension all round and has not had the suspension serviced although it is overdue. It was perfectly fine for non-competitive fun.

The track days that I've done with the 12R are non-competitive, we don't time laps. I pass people with track bikes and little talent/confidence. I also have no shame when getting overtaken by some good riders on touring bikes.
Many people have seen my 12R in the paddock and just nodded respectfully towards it, they know they can walk all over it on the track but they know it takes effort and control to get it around at any speed.
You have 170? HP, 240kgs, ageing suspension, old style axial brakes, non-track geometry, no ABS, no traction control..... It's going to be about the GRIN not the WIN. :thumbup:
 

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What Shep said :thumbup:

Calipers you've got an almost limitless choice, if you're prepared to use an adaptor. I, like many, have gone for the radial R1 set up and it's FAR FAR better than the 6 pots. Suspension wise, if you've done nothing since the bike was rolled off the production line then do something now. All the power in the world isn't going to help if your bike's gone all boingy :rolleyes: I went for a Nitron rear with remote preload as I do a lot of two up riding and want an instant fix without having to piss about with a "C" spanner for half an hour every time.

Ultimately all this depends on your budget. If you've got loads of cash then Ohlins up front with radial mounted Brembos. Then braided lines to Brembo radial master. Then go for matching rear shock with electronic settings you can adjust on the move. :thumbup:
 

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AK-20 fork cartridges from Traxxion Dynamics are worth a look, talk to them about rear shocks too. I have the AK-20's and an Ohlins shock with matched springs. Huge improvement over stock street riding, I'm yet to do any track riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the information. I should have posted the current mods to the bike.

Brocks Full exhaust with power with custom map 175HP to rear
Forged aluminum rims
steel braided brake lines
new wave rotors front and back
new fork oil with progressive Racetech springs

When I had the forks done with new oil and racetech springs, the bike weighed about 35lbs heavier with the stock suspension and stock rims. I have also lost 15lbs off of my body. So that is about 50lbs lighter. Now I feel the bike is over sprung and hard as a rock.
 

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I had all custom made Mupo stuff built for my 12R. Mupo Rear with all the bells and whistles and Mupo cartridges. But I think any of the top stuff is good. Wilbers and Nitron are also very nice stuff.. Ohlins is the go to name but they make so many levels of suspension just for the top racers in the world it's hard to know just exactly how close to their best you really have.
 

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Thanks for all the information. I should have posted the current mods to the bike.

Brocks Full exhaust with power with custom map 175HP to rear
Forged aluminum rims
steel braided brake lines
new wave rotors front and back
new fork oil with progressive Racetech springs

When I had the forks done with new oil and racetech springs, the bike weighed about 35lbs heavier with the stock suspension and stock rims. I have also lost 15lbs off of my body. So that is about 50lbs lighter. Now I feel the bike is over sprung and hard as a rock.
To be honest , take it to a track with a good set of tyres and see how it feels . My bike felt fine on the road going hard but when I went to the track it started feeling very soft as you can get a lot more heat into the tyres and can really get the most out of the bike . That's your best bet imo .:thumbup:
 

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Are all years forks internals the same?

I took my 2004 B3 forks in for rebuild and re-spring with the plan of getting new springs and re-worked internals. The suspension shop said progressives are no longer current thinking, now they spring for weight and use small port valves for control. Ohlin internals were on the menu.

But when they opened them up they were pleased with the current valving (maybe non-stock) as they were already restrictive ports so they rebuilt valve packs, shimmed and upped the stock 0.86 spring to Racetech 1.0s for my 200lbs. They felt no point in charging the extra 300 for Ohlins internals when what existed were too similar is what I understood them to say.

Are the 04-05 forks differently valved than the 00-03 forks? Obviously the caliper mounts changed but anything else?

I have not ridden with the rebuilds yet, but they feel much different pump and release on the ground.

I would like to deal with the rear before I ride...its got 28000 on it, it has original press in cover so I think its never been touched. I'm saving to replace it, the susp. shop kinda felt that rebuilding the rear stock shock was not worth it unless I couldn't afford an aftermarket before riding season.

Its still below zero at night with frost so I can wait.
 

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The 12 doesnt need any upgrade to ride on the fast group.Keep your cash for tyres.Once on the fast group you'll need a couple of front tyres and a rear before the track day ends.

But since you have no track experience you wont wear the tyres you wont push the bike so hard so do not bother to buy anything,except for a screwdriver to adjust your suspension.

Anything you know for road riding doenst apply on the track,just follow the advices the track master will tell and be gentle on the gas.

A fork/shock oil change befor the track is always a good thing to do!
Ditto.
 

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one nice thing about having the 12 on the track... is the look on the 1K guys faces when ya come on the front strait and WALK AWAY. lol

stainless braided lines and some HH pads should get yer brakes up to snuff. +1 on the 190/55 rear tire. Also find the suspension tuning truck / tent (almost EVERY trackday has at least one, sometimes its the same guy who sells tires) and pay him $40 to do an "initial set up" for ya. It will get yer sag / damping in the right ball park for YOU on the bike in YOUR riding position and gear.
 

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As the others have said you just need good tyres and check all caliper pistons moving freely with HH pads and braided lines for your first track day. Never be tempted to "finish off" already heavily worn tyres on the track.

Take a note pad with you and so you can jot down how you think the bike is working or not on different sections of the track after each session and any changes you make to suspension, tyre pressures, etc and how the bike reacts to them. When you do deside to spend the money on things like a new shock / fork set-up this will be really useful for the guy's to get you the right parts for how you ride.

If you start to do a lot of track days it's also worth looking at a cheap track bike as you'll find the better you set your bike up for the track the worse it'll be on the road and there is an enevitability that if you spend a lot of time pushing it on the track you'll end up in the gravel at some point. You can buy an rough early ZX6R for less than the price of fixing your 12 after even a light off and will be far easier to learn track craft on.
 
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