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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,I'm wondering if anyone has any information on the service limit on the camchain,as I can't seem to find any specs in the manual.
I have set the tensioner as specified in the manual to 3 clicks,but when I put the end cap on the tensioner,I heard it take up the slack,and on removal,to check,the plunger now sits at 6 clicks out.
The Camchain was not noisy,so I'm wondering if this is within spec,or nearing the end of its limits,indicating chain wear,in which case will need replacing.
My next question is,does anyone know if it's possible to purchase a split chain for the zxr12 hivo type chain,thus avoiding crankcase split
 

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I have no real information other than try to follow the service manual and measure the cam chain. Then again in order to do that one would need to pull the chain from the engine...so.... Any way. I have learnt that you can take out and put in a new cam chain with out separating the engine block. There is a small tab on the engine block you need to get grind off, then you can change the cam chain. I have not come across a split cam chain for the ZX12R.
Here is a link to a post member Colour Me Gone* wrote about how to change out the cam chain with out having to split the engine case. LINK --> no case split timing chain replace
I personally think mechanical tensioners should be avoided. Also the chain guides also play a roll in cam chain slack, if the guides are worn out. Sadly one can not buy new guides any more. Another thing is that the teeth on the cam shaft sprockets will wear out over time, so that may also be an issue in the long run. Then again I do believe that cam chain issues are not that common, the ZX12R engine makes so much power and torque down low so its not like the engine lives in the high RPM range, this makes life easier for the cam chain, etc... That said, every part in an engine does have its "Best before date"....
Hope this helps..,

/Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Much appreciated,I will check the link you provided.like I say,the chain was not noisey,so I may not have any problem,but as I have changed the thermostat,and have most things stripped off,and I am working in the area so to speak,I thought I would see if it is possible to change without the casing split.once again thanks for your information
 

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A friend of mine put 100,000 miles on his 12. Bike ran fine. No cam chain issues.
Besides the chain, the guides can wear also.
If you pop the crank trigger cover and dremel off the cast in tab under the cam chain crank gear, chain removal is easy. I think the factory casts that into the case so you would need to split the case.
Lol. I have them cut off on my bikes and have had no issue.

cmg
 

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The Auto Cam Chain Tensioners are fairly reliable and work well so long as oil is changed when recommended.
Whenever I do valve shim adjustments I always work the tensioner with fresh engine oil to make it slide in and out smoothly with no gritty feel to it. I normally set them to 2 clicks less than what it was when I removed it, this offers a bit of slack for the rebuild, after which I gently rotate the timing rotor and listen for the tensioner clicks x2 or 3 taking out the slack, this way I know it's working ok.
 
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if you still have some "clicks" left on the tensioner and the chain isnt kinky, i would keep running it.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
A friend of mine put 100,000 miles on his 12. Bike ran fine. No cam chain issues.
Besides the chain, the guides can wear also.
If you pop the crank trigger cover and dremel off the cast in tab under the cam chain crank gear, chain removal is easy. I think the factory casts that into the case so you would need to split the case.
Lol. I have them cut off on my bikes and have had no issue.

cmg
Thank you for your advice,in fact the link I was provided with was one of your old posts describing the lug that needs removing.great advice thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The Auto Cam Chain Tensioners are fairly reliable and work well so long as oil is changed when recommended.
Whenever I do valve shim adjustments I always work the tensioner with fresh engine oil to make it slide in and out smoothly with no gritty feel to it. I normally set them to 2 clicks less than what it was when I removed it, this offers a bit of slack for the rebuild, after which I gently rotate the timing rotor and listen for the tensioner clicks x2 or 3 taking out the slack, this way I know it's working ok.
thanks ninja,yes good idea to work tensioner and lubricate it.I think my tensioner is working ok,as I heard it take up the slack,after i set it to 3 clicks,I just didn't know if it was at the limit,but I think it's still got a few clicks left on the pawl,and chain wasn't noisy last time I had it running.believe it or not but I haven't even ridden it yet,just bought it,then started renovating it.
 
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