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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.

Back with more trouble on the bike.

Basically I started having weak battery symptons. I know the battery on it was a few years old and so i reckoned it wouldn't hurt changing it.

I bought a fresh one and couple of days later it was not doing so well.

So I was in for charging system failures somewhere.

I charged the new battery (it was around 12 V so not damaged I think) back to spec

And then tested above 18V on the battery terminals with the engine running.

Soooo the R/R was deemed dead.

I looked and noticed it had already been changed (no connector from the alternator, the wires were soldered up)

I continued to use the bike until I recieved the new R/R, putting the battery on charge every evening (from around 12.2 to 14.5)

Fitted it today, got 14.5 approx with engine running.

Took it for a spin.

After around 5 miles and a bumpy patch of road it cut out completely

I had my tools etc so was able to go through the setup, it all seemed good.

All fuses are good.

BUT

Now I just Ubered home and started looking I've just learned that there are more fuses in the battery area

Dammittttt !!!! ?

Seeing how it cut out in an instant and that i have no response anywhere, i figure this main fuse must be the culprit

BUT

A fuse that blows is a security measure.

What do you think made it blow ? Because changing the fuse will get me started but I wouldn't want to set the bike on fire...

What amp are the fuses in the battery tray and are they the same type as the ones under the tank cover ???

Thanks

I need to go fix this

J
 

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The 3 fuses not in the fuse box are the headlight/Fan 30amp green fuse in the battery tray easy to see once the tray is removed, and the Main 30amp green fuse is hidden under the starter solenoid cover in the battery tray.
There is also an ECU fuse on its own next to the fuse box 15amp blue fuse.
Well, for the B3 onwards.

As your bike is an A1 the headlight fuse will be a Yellow 20amp one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi

Thanks for your input.

Do you think my diagnosis is correct as far as the main fuse has blown or simply jumped out/connections been weakened or pushed seeing that i have been fiddling with the battery connections (pulling the tray in and out several times recently) ?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi.

Right so i got back to the bike and founf out that indeed the main fuse had blown.

I changed it out and hooked up the battery and upon switching the ignition on it came alive for 2 seconds and cut out again so I'm guessing the fuse is dead again.

What could possibly cause this ?

All i have changed is the R/R and it was working fine (well for a few miles)

I suppose something got touched at some point but where the hell must i start looking ?

Really pissed off now I thought I had been thourough but evidently not
 

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2000 french market ZX12R. This is just so I know which wiring diagram to look at next time. Thankfully you only have 16 posts to look through to find out. But it would help if you were to put A1 FR in your profile for your bike so I don't have to search next time. :thumbup:

If you think it might be a faulty regulator/rectifier then when you change the fuse next disconnect the reg/rec, and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I traced it down to the wires from the stator.

Disconnecting them stops the Main fuse from blowing.

I have got the bike back home and am going to strip down the wiring of the stator to investigate whether they are shorting out due to overheating.

Should be an easy task replacing them.

I hope the R/R hasn't been damaged ? its new and only been used for 5 miles ?
 

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I've been looking through the wiring diagrams and as no other fuses are blowing 95% probability its regulator or stator related.

I can't remember if you have the standard OE regulator fitted or not, but if so I would do a few quick diode checks on it.

Remember when checking the stator winding wires you're going to be looking for low resistance to start with so make sure you know what resistance the meter probes show when its leads are shorted together first.

My cheap meter shows about 0.5 ohms through the probes but my other 2 more expensive meters know to show zero.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok i will look at that

The R/R i fitted yesterday is an OE type with the factory plugs.

Since my bike has already had one changed they soldered the wires together to avoid the common issue I've read about on these bikes.

I put spade terminals instead of resoldering and then heatshrinked and taped everything up. I wouldn't have thought that that would cause a problem ?

I'd like to be able to rule out the R/R its going to be extra hassle if i have to return it etc ?

Any reason why it could have fried so soon ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right, I've done all the tests as explained here :

https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle

Turns out that the stator now passes all the tests except for output : only 2 wires are giving voltage (around 27 @1800 rpm)

Weird because yesterday i had a stable 14.5V at the battery with engine running after changing the R/R (and i was getting 18 or 19 the other day when I did my diagnosis and figuring the R/R was shot)

Looks like i need a new stator too then ?
 

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Right, I've done all the tests as explained here :

https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle

Turns out that the stator now passes all the tests except for output : only 2 wires are giving voltage (around 27 @1800 rpm)

Weird because yesterday i had a stable 14.5V at the battery with engine running after changing the R/R (and i was getting 18 or 19 the other day when I did my diagnosis and figuring the R/R was shot)

Looks like i need a new stator too then ?
Should get 85 ∼ 120 V @4 000 r/min (rpm) out of any pair of wires from the stator :nerd:
 

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The main fuse blew on mine as well, and the R/R was kaput. It was related to the Stator being burnt out. Once the R/R had stuffed up it was not able to regulate the electrical flow and the main fuse kept blowing. Had the stator repaired (rewired) and new Japanese Mosfet R/R.

Ninjayorkie would be able to explain this better but that was basically what had happened to mine.
 

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I did the exact same thing as Duck00. When I first bought the bike it almost blew a battery. So I changed the R/R and put a new oem one in. Then the bike quit on me so I replaced the stator. I had a voltage meter fixed to the triple tree so I could monitor any future electrical problems.

A few weeks ago my voltage jumped up to 20V while I was riding one day. Swapped out the R/R for a shindengen mosfet fh020aa and so far after about 50km it’s been steady at 13.5V while I ride. I’m hoping that this is the fix as I’ve heard the mosfet R/R’s are pretty much the best of the best
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks all for your input.

I've been searching for a stator and it seems that the first gen 12R have a bigger diameter stator.

Is that systematic to all the 2000 12r ?

Or did they have a tendancy to fit whatever was going like Suzuki did on some of their range ?

Thanks
 

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Not 100% sure about the different sizes of stators, my mechanic is the one who ordered it. He’s been a life saver in my whole process
 

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Hello this is my first post. I have an old ZX12R 2000 to be exact. I was riding the bike and I lost all power. I got it home and let it sit for a day. Turned the key and all power came on. The day prior I stalled it out. Yes, rookie move, but it looked like the battery died. I turned the key and no power at all. I let it sit 5 minutes and turned it on and it had all power again. Now it’s been three days and I turned the key and nothing then a couple seconds later literally the electrical system comes to life. I turned it back if and tried to turn it on and nothing. Is this my ignition switch?
 

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It wouldn't hurt to check the ignition switch and the starter solenoid, but I have a feeling your battery is giving you an early warning that it's about to give up.

Mine stalled out the other day and would not restart straight away, but it was hot and the fan and headlights were on, I've now got a new battery ready to go in.
 

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I thought those could be possible issues. What I found was that the main ground wire bolt was loose. I went to start this morning. All power came in as I turn the key and when I press the ignition button it died. So I started at the battery again and the ground was tight. I went to lossen it and the washer went through the tray. I added a bigger washer to it and it started fine. Do you think there is a bigger underlying issue there?
 

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Its hard to say, but more often when a battery won't turn the engine over its an indication your battery is about to give up.

I've had a loose battery terminal in the tray and it shagged a new battery in less than 30 starts.
 
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