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Discussion Starter #1
I hooked up the jumper cable to the yellow wire, once i start the procedure all i get is the fi light on, no flases or anything. Does this mean all is well?
side note: Pc3r is hooked up to the bike.
 

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FI code means something is wrong. Find out the code number and go from there. Can we take a paper clip to the right two wires at the wire harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i thought grounding that yellow wire is supposed to send flashes to the fi light to tell you what codes.
 

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Whatever that service connector is, has how many wires? You want to horseshoe the paperclip so you tag 2 wires that light up the dash to show code. Who's got a wire diagram for a 12?

If blk/y is a color for ground, then is that the yellow wire you describe? Remember there are plain wires and wires with a dominate color and a tracer line. So black is dominate, yellow is the tracer = Ground.

Read off the wires at the empty service connector.
 

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Whatever that service connector is, has how many wires? You want to horseshoe the paperclip so you tag 2 wires that light up the dash to show code. Who's got a wire diagram for a 12?

If blk/y is a color for ground, then is that the yellow wire you describe? Remember there are plain wires and wires with a dominate color and a tracer line. So black is dominate, yellow is the tracer = Ground.

Read off the wires at the empty service connector.
The (service connector) self diagnosis indicate terminal is a single wire, the wire is grounded against an earth point on the frame to indicate the fault with a series of flashes on the FI light.
 

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I hooked up the jumper cable to the yellow wire, once i start the procedure all i get is the fi light on, no flases or anything. Does this mean all is well?
side note: Pc3r is hooked up to the bike.

There is no code in the manual that shows as the light on all the time, are you sure you're grounding it properly ?

Dealer mode 1 are faults present at the time, Dealer mode 2 shows faults system has had in the past.

Dealer mode 1

Ground the wire for more than 2 seconds and then keep it grounded continuously, count the blinks.

Dealer mode 2

Ground the wire more than 5 times within 2 seconds and then keep it grounded, count the blinks.
 

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Does this mean all is well?
Yes, all is well... Kind of...

Page 2-50. Thanks, drp/Dave.

Follow creed's dlr code 2. Thanks, creed.

Page 2-53, top of page. Read it and weep. Thanks, 02, but you might have a later manual?
_______________________________________________________

... Goes like this. You brought up the pig because? Because the bike does not start? Or you just wanted to read a code, or the bike had a code? Dlr 1 says, my light stays on, I am codeless. Dlr 2 says, read it and weep time?

Time? I have no clue when 'vanish' is leaving you high and dry? So did you have a "phantom" code, too many key fob rides and there you go = Vanished!

Withatsaid, the next time the code comes on, your first step [off to the side of the road] is:

1. Key off. This saves the code.
2. Key on. This is the fast look is to just ground the wire.
3. Key off. You already found zip in dlr 1. Off resets that tapping of wire.
4. Key on. And this is all when it occurs, because right now, vanished is in dlr 1, for argument sake. This is for all the marbles you tap your heels 5 times the light fandango and hold to ground on the 5th count = Good Luck, or it vanished to OZ.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
well, the reason i am checking is, when cold starting with fast idle on, it will start and stall 3 times. Once started the fi "lightly" blinks till it is warm. I get the feeling the bike does not know it is freaking cold outside and and not throwing enough gas in. side note: once warm bike runs just fine.
 

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Hard starting?

A. WOT is the compression?
B. Heat causes the head to atomize better.
C. I'll trade you heads, you have a winner if it's that sensitive = Sans:

1. Low compression you get some expansion when hot.
2. The head is that sensitive during cold months.
3. It's just dirty enough so as not to atomize as well as new, try an injector cleaner if hard starting?
4. The pig jetting down low is fat enough to cause hard starting. No map change below 2,000 rpm, so maybe the map, and this is where you disable the pc on the hot side of the wire. If you remove ground on the pc, the hot wire is still grounded via it's being connected to the injectors. So if it's jetting, the elimination of the rich map numbers might show the either/or ~ Map or Dirty injector?
 
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