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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK...because of age and knackered shoulder...I have decided to fit the German high superbike bars kit manufactured by ABM to my ZX-12R A1. Excuses if my typing is crap...hopefully you will be able to fit the kit using my photos etc ( rather than the absolute crap instructions supplied with the kit !! ) Bits I miss out, I'll try to remember to add them later.

Couldn't find any real link to fitting these higher bars, so hopefully this thread will be of use to others :)

I want to be rid of this position.......





......and here's the £357 kit to do it !!



I settled to also buy ( included in the total price above ) the ABM handlebars and bar weights...so everything should fit nicely. The kit is really well made....just the socket cap screws should be better quality !

So, remove the bodywork that may get scratched....



Then bleed/empty the brake system.....



Loosen all nuts screws etc ( Krappysacki screws were a right pain in the arse..made of cheese so consider loosening the screws maybe the day before starting the conversion. The big allen key is a 12mm jobbie btw.



Only the two screws holding the throttle housing failed to undo.....a nice sharp chisel persuaded them to unwind ( nice stainless replacements went in ) :)



Now read the instructions ( I used Google to translate them...still crap but better than those supplied ! )



Make a note ( i.e. take a photo ) of the three mounting holes ( I used a 5mm drill ). The ABM bars are very thick and strong alloy, superb quality.



Use brake CLEANER to work off the clutch grip ( and to help put it back on as a lube )



Remove the inner fairing black side plastics to help with pouting the cables and at the same time unplug the ignition switch so the top yoke can be removed.......I've left this with my local shop to weld onto the sheer bolts and undo them ( so will finish this job hopefully tomorrow when I get the ignition barrel back ! )



So this is how she looks with the top yoke off.





Slip the spacer on the headstock ( not sure if this is 100% right just yet until I see if the ignition can still be used in the lock position. Like this the top handlebar clamp is lever with the top off the forks ).



Route your wires and cables accordingly ( replacement longer brake hoses - not fitted yet - and a longer clutch cable are supplied in the kit ) and then mark your new high bars ready for drilling...check, check and double check before drilling. No rush, take your time !



Here's where I am up to today.......





Hopefully, I'll get my ignition barrel back tomorrow and then also fit the longer s/s braided hoses. All OE bits 'n' pieces will be sold to help towards my conversion.

Any amendments I shall update you with; more to follow.........
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks guys....onwards and upwards......

Here's a photo showing the spacer supplied with the kit..this goes on the headstock underneath the top clamp as shown.



The brake hoses are different lengths, so ensure to longest goes to the nearside :)
I re-used the s/s master cylinder banjo ( alloy in the kit supplied ). I bled the brakes by opening both brake caliper nipples and used a syringe to pull the fluid through whilst my lovely assistant used her right hand to good effect !





Quick photo for reference...whilst I had a mug of tea :)



Cable tying the loose wiring.....almost there now...



How the bars look now...lovely and raised and oooooooh so comfortable !




.... and that's that...all done and dusted and a very happy Wirral rider :)
Hope it is of value to anyone else considering the conversion.
Allow plenty of time, there's no rush !



Cheers KC

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

P.S.

These are the parts you should be left with :-

Top clamp and bars ( plus OE spacer washer which isn't needed with the new top yoke )
S/S bar weights
Standard length Clutch cable
Standard length Goodridge s/s brake hoses

I'll probably bung these on Eblag to help towards my costs !!!

 

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model dependant gents their a afew variations to these kits ,mine dosent have the spacer as shown in the piccys and also has two little washers that attach to the headstock clock brakets and stops the bars from hitting the fairing as mines a b series ,good guide tho buddy will be usefull for others .
 

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Very nice :thumbup:

I'm considering something similar with old age and sports/accident injuries beating at my body. Just wondered about the riding position as to wind buffering and the change in body and seating position, especially on the lower back (one of my problem areas). Sometimes when solving one issue you can develop another.

Are you coming to the Wales trip so we can have a good look at it:thumbup:

Cheers

Hat
 

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Nice write up! :thumbup:

The bars look much wider than the originals.
Is there enough room to move the controls in and cut down the bars like I've done on Renthal bars on enduros?
 

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Nice write up! :thumbup:

The bars look much wider than the originals.
Is there enough room to move the controls in and cut down the bars like I've done on Renthal bars on enduros?
i put the two sets of bars together before fitting mine and theirs about 2 inches differance
 

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Very nice :thumbup:

I'm considering something similar with old age and sports/accident injuries beating at my body. Just wondered about the riding position as to wind buffering and the change in body and seating position, especially on the lower back (one of my problem areas). Sometimes when solving one issue you can develop another.

Are you coming to the Wales trip so we can have a good look at it:thumbup:

Cheers

Hat
their is a little more buffering at high speed due to the ride position being more upright ,have a larger screen on mine now so this has all but eliminated this back to where it was pre fitting the kit ,i have very very worn lower back discs due to a work injury and find i can use the bike in greater comfort and also do much longer trips now due to the kit ,but be aware all back injurys are differant so whats good for myself may be worse for you buddy
 

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Very nice. :thumbup:
The kit looks top quality. I like the billet upper. Could put some miles on now.
High high speed would be out?
How do you fit a damper? Do you need one with the wide grip?

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No damper needed; took her to 120mph today ( private road of course )..and absolutely rock stable! Over here in Blighty we are far to governed by radar patrols to actually enjoy the full potential that this bike is capable of.

Excellent mod though and fully recommended. No damper required. Buffeting is minimal ( I'm 5 ft 8 ins tall ) for all aspects of the ride.....until illegal speeds are reached !
 

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their is a little more buffering at high speed due to the ride position being more upright ,have a larger screen on mine now so this has all but eliminated this back to where it was pre fitting the kit ,i have very very worn lower back discs due to a work injury and find i can use the bike in greater comfort and also do much longer trips now due to the kit ,but be aware all back injurys are differant so whats good for myself may be worse for you buddy
Cheers Terry....mine is damaged 1,2 and 3 vertebrae thanks to a blind driver :angry: I'm giving a set of these some serious consideration. Looks a nice piece of kit.
 

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Cheers Terry....mine is damaged 1,2 and 3 vertebrae thanks to a blind driver :angry: I'm giving a set of these some serious consideration. Looks a nice piece of kit.
no problem my friend ,i think youl be like myself and prefer this set up to standard bars and may be have pain free riding !
i can honestly say this kit has been a bit of a last attempt to get comfy on any bike for myself due to the back which was going to make myself give up on my bikes .....so cant fault this in any ways has done what i wanted it to do
 

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I couldn't face altering the bikes looks so brought this conversion for comfy riding days....



Bit tight in the garage with the 12 the 650R and my sons TTR90 lol....
 
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