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Does your boot rub against the exhaust at all ???

I have the original pegs, but would like the lowered buell pegs because of my LONG legs.

But with the original exhaust (and my yoshi TRS full) i can touch the exhaust with my boot if i tilt the heel backwards.

Will this give me problems with the buell pegs
 

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Yes, if I tilt my foot back even slightly my boot heal with touch. If I wear riding boots, it isn't so bad, but with regular longer heal boots it touches easily.

Still worth it. I just don't touch it. There is enough room that it wont melt your boot if you don't rest it on it.

Honestly, I think I could touch it with the factory pegs, just never really paid attention. it is just a little worse with the buel pegs.
 

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This happens on my stock pegs so I have to believe lowering the
pegs will not improve it any...however I don't think that would stop me.
 

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Does your boot rub against the exhaust at all ???

I have the original pegs, but would like the lowered buell pegs because of my LONG legs.

But with the original exhaust (and my yoshi TRS full) i can touch the exhaust with my boot if i tilt the heel backwards.

Will this give me problems with the buell pegs
Yeah, the heel of my boot is definitely closer and I did touch a bit at first. I've conditioned myself though that I rarely ever touch it now. I tend to ride with my toes pointing a bit downward (thus my heel is up). Adjusting the brake pedal down helps too.
 

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I have 36" inseam, stock was brutal, (I also need a right knee replaced so staying bent is really hard) so I went with Buell pegs and then I fabbed up a spacer/lowering plate out of 3/8 aluminium 1"by4", I just drilled for 8 by 30 allen head to mount to frame using orig mounting holes and drilled/tapped an inch lower for mounting the pedal assy. Brought it out a 1/2 inch and down almost two, I ride pretty hard and have only dragged when I did before and my heel is a little further away from the pipe. So far so good..
 

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I have 36" inseam, stock was brutal, (I also need a right knee replaced so staying bent is really hard) so I went with Buell pegs and then I fabbed up a spacer/lowering plate out of 3/8 aluminium 1"by4", I just drilled for 8 by 30 allen head to mount to frame using orig mounting holes and drilled/tapped an inch lower for mounting the pedal assy. Brought it out a 1/2 inch and down almost two, I ride pretty hard and have only dragged when I did before and my heel is a little further away from the pipe. So far so good..
Can you post some pictures of your setup? :headscratch:
 

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Question: would Buell footpegs solid or spring loaded like the ones we have....I am trying to avoid paying close to $500 for rear sets and get something setup for my bike with solid foot rests. I found out solid foot rests are another way of protecting my bike engine.....

Is there other ways to convert our foot rests to solid pegs? :headscratch:
 

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Question: would Buell footpegs solid or spring loaded like the ones we have....I am trying to avoid paying close to $500 for rear sets and get something setup for my bike with solid foot rests. I found out solid foot rests are another way of protecting my bike engine.....

Is there other ways to convert our foot rests to solid pegs? :headscratch:
They fold up and are spring loaded. Having them solid or "fixed" would be a bad idea anyhow. Considering you're lowering their position, they are going to be the first thing to touch the pavement when leaned over deep in a curve. At that point you WANT them to fold up some; otherwise they can lever the rear wheel right off the pavement and cause you to dump. If you ever look at pictures by Killboy at the Dragon, invariably you'll see a sequence of some cruiser with fixed pegs or floorboards doing exactly that.
 

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I recently installed the Buell footpegs and yes the heel of my boot does touch the exhaust but only if I tilt the foot back. I normally ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs anyway, you just have to learn adjust your feet to suit. The more you think about it, the more you will keep tilting your heel back to see where it's at.
 

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So I am confused with rear sets....they are solid and if there is a concern about it why folks paying high $$$ for them for their bikes :headscratch:

I spoke to Jeff from D.P. Motorsports and he said the reason for solid pegs are to protect the bike from sliding if/when the bike drop or in a wreck but it totally make sense on what you all are saying that when we go on twisties rides it would not be a good thing.....very confusing....with rear sets there are different high adjustments to avoid touching the ground when doing twisites so solid pegs are good for protecting the engine if/when the bike hit the ground :angry: I think that is the idea behind the rear sets.....that is why I was asking on Buell pegs (if it is a solid mount) using with riser adapter on my bike so instead of spending $500 I will be spending a lot less :headscratch:
 

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Rearsets are designed to allow you to move them further back and higher up, not the other way around. They are usually shorter, too so you end up with more ground clearance, making it virtually impossible to drag them.
 

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So I am confused with rear sets....they are solid and if there is a concern about it why folks paying high $$$ for them for their bikes :headscratch:

I spoke to Jeff from D.P. Motorsports and he said the reason for solid pegs are to protect the bike from sliding if/when the bike drop or in a wreck but it totally make sense on what you all are saying that when we go on twisties rides it would not be a good thing.....very confusing....with rear sets there are different high adjustments to avoid touching the ground when doing twisites so solid pegs are good for protecting the engine if/when the bike hit the ground :angry: I think that is the idea behind the rear sets.....that is why I was asking on Buell pegs (if it is a solid mount) using with riser adapter on my bike so instead of spending $500 I will be spending a lot less :headscratch:
The solid pegs may offer some crash protection but the main reason is they are more secure feeling. Since they can't move there is no slop or play like the folding ones can develop. The do not use the squishy rubber that some bikes have which also moves around.
The pegs on rear sets are not as long as stock pegs so touching down would take some real effort.
Some rear sets offer folding pegs as some rider like that feature.

There is no way to convert the stock set up to non folding short of welding then in place to the peg bracket. Not really a good idea with cast aluminum.
 

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Thanks all, these are really good information.....I can see why rear sets are popular for those hardcore twisty riders.....but for myself I really don't need them so I put my $500 toward something else.....thanks again everyone! :thumbup:
 

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Is there a noticeable vibration difference you can feel in your feet while riding since the Buell pegs don't have the rubber on them like our stock ones?
 

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Is there a noticeable vibration difference you can feel in your feet while riding since the Buell pegs don't have the rubber on them like our stock ones?
I don't particularly notice any vibration coming through on the Buell pegs myself. If there is some vibration, it's not been enough for me to get my attention and make me think about it. Now on my 620cc KTM thumper dual-sport, yeah, I can feel some vibration in the footpegs alright. :lol:
 

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I have the Buell pegs and at first took them right back off and actually tried to sell them. Luckily No one spoke up and I tried them again. Once used to them you will love em!
 
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