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In my endless "browsing" of the net in search of brake knowledge, I got the bright idea about picking with the rotor buttons. An hour or so of searching turned up this (no pics):

"Stock Front Brake Rotors made Perfect for $0.00
I'd been cleaning, shaking, and freeing the front brake rotors from their carriers regularly on my '02 Mille for too long, just to have the rotor buttons tighten back up and my brakes start pulsing within a week or less of riding.

Enough was enough, but I wasn't about to spend $500+ on new rotors. I pulled my front wheel, removed the front rotors, and solved the problem in less than 30 minutes without spending a dime.

Since the fix, after 1,500+ miles, I've never felt a single brake pulse, nor have the rotor buttons/rivets even begun to seize up again.

In a nutshell, you'll turn "semi-floating" rotors into full floaters, without replacing the rivets.

Below is a picture of a Mille's brake rivet beforehand. The fringed-edge spring washer is the cause of the problem.

Notice the snugness of the fringed washer's edges to the rotor and carrier. A combination of the tight fit, oxidation from the different metals touching, and pocket created under the convex washer (trapping dirt/brake dust/etc.) are preventing the rotor from even "semi"-floating on it's carrier, resulting in brake pulse and eventually, if unchecked, rotor warpage.

Here's my tactic:

I sharpened the tip of a flat tip screwdriver, and used it to flatten the "fringed" spring washers found on the inside of the rotors' "semi-floating" rivets/buttons.

The key is just to flatten the convex fringed spring washers, without bending the fringes upward (ie: don't make them concave) . The edges of the washers shouldn't be more than 1mm off the surface of the rotor when you're done.

It's easiest to get underneath the edge of one of the spring washer's fringed edges by starting in the gap between the rotor and carrier. Once the screwdriver tip (or other equivalent sharp, narrow tipped chisel) is slid under the fringe, only lift it slightly to bend the fringe just barely away from the rotor.

Instead of having to work the sharp tip under each fringe of the washers, slide the tip sideways from one fringe to the next.

After the above procedure, the rivets should all be loose, and the flattened spring washers should spin on the rivet with only a light push with your finger. Grasp the assembly by the carrier, shake it, and the rotor should rattle a bit.

I sprayed the rotor rivets with brake cleaner when I was done, and the pressure of the spray can's stream was actually enough to spin the spring washers on the rivets!

The only even slightly negative result of this mod is the increased noise. With normal or even heavy braking, the difference in braking volume isn't noticeable, but ride over a pothole at low speed (without the brake on), and you'll hear the rotors jingle a bit. The tradeoff is well worth it."


Trying it with my old set of rotors and so far so good... Too bad they aren't on the bike anymore. Very interesting though!
 

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it's also worth mentioning that true fully floating rotors have a lot more buttons than the semi floating variety. This prevents warping and adds strength. Here are my fully floating brembos

Pero motorsports is having a sale on the same rotors, IIRC $300 a set.
 

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The "Strength" of the "Wave Washer" spring controls the float. They make several different strength springs and you can control the strength of the float! WHen I went to 330 Rotors on the ZX11 I used softer springs but the amount of Rattle was a lot more than I thought it would be so I made it every other washer the softer one to allow more float with less noise!
 
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