Kawasaki World banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,



My front wheel seems very "light" during hard acceleration, even cranking at speeds over 90mph. The front end wobbles, shakes, gives me hard time to control it.

A steering damper could help I guess, but would give me a wrong feedback. Have you guys experienced this? And if so, what to do to fix it?



Thanks.







</p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,069 Posts
I have my rebound set all the way on front forks so it don't rebound as fast so it doesn't try to lift front wheel as bad.... But thats just my theory..... CAuse front forks are under spring pressure...

All 12's are fast.... But you have to look out for the Stupid fast,NOS powered,Booger Green models.......</p>
 
G

·
Crank the adjustments up ,preload comp.rebound and try it out.If it's divin alot under braking .bumps ,not enough compression,if it;s bouncin up fast over bumps not enough rebound.B4 you do these adjustments set your sag.You'll get it dude,experiment.

Silly rabbit trix are for kids!</p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,069 Posts
I have I think I'm between ring 1 and 2 on the preload....

All 12's are fast.... But you have to look out for the Stupid fast,NOS powered,Booger Green models.......</p>
 
G

·
I took about 5mm of sag out of the front from stock and increased compresion and rebound each 3 clicks from full on. The back I left spring preload stock cause it's way over sprung. Stock was set at softest. Compresion is at 10 clicks and rebound I think was 2 clicks from full on.

I would like to set rear ride height but no adjusters were found. I think you might have to shim for this. Anyone know?? I would like 4 to 7 mm higher but good enough for now.

I am at 185 lbs...5'11 and this set up feels best for me. I haven't had any head shakes since doing this, wheelies land smoother, feed back from the front is better, and I now can change a line mid corner without pushing the front out.

Living life on two wheels
and living wild
on one</p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am going to try all of this! I had the same problem with my ZX9, not as bad though. I changed so many things that I cant even remember, although I could easily check and compare to the stock settings.

The settings on the 12 are still stock. Comparing to the 9, both front and rear suspensions fell a lot stiffer, especially the front.

I weight 190 pounds. What kind of sag are you guys running? 35mm? 40mm?

</p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
327 Posts
Different theory's you need to see what work's best for you. I'm 220 and i have the front stiffened up, Three click's from max and preload cranked in.



I've heard from drag racer's to soften up rear so she will squat, But I'm stiff on the rear, Because i'm scuffing lower fairing on hill's.

2001 ZX12R Ninja,

Phantom Silver" Something which exists but has no physical reality; A ghost" </p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There are some good inputs. I was thinking about doing some adjustments this weekend, but have to go on a trip outside the country for a couple of days. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\">

Next week for sure I am going to reset it. Hopefully everything is going to be fine.

Thanks everyone.



"Existem muito mais coisas entre o céu e a Terra, do que pensa sua vã filosofia". Milan Kundera.</p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,050 Posts
Dave Bogue,

Dropping the rear height is the same as dropping the forks down the triple clamps and therefore kicking the front forks out further.

This will make the steering head angle be less steep and therefore more stable. That is why cruisers are stable on straights. Also by moving the forks further out you are moving the weight and moment of the bike forwards. This makes the bike slightly harder to unsettle.

If you were to do the opposite and raise the rear end or lower the front end, the bike would steer a lot quicker but, it would get out of shape easier under power due to the steeper head angle.

Hope this explains it to you.

Regards

Ted

</p>
 
G

·
This is going to seem a little off the wall, but I'm going mention it to anyway. I had some headshake when I got the bike broken in and started to get on it hard in first gear. At about 1500 miles, I replaced the 200 rear tire with a 190/50 which effectively lowers the rear ride height. This of course also alters the front end suspension geometry. My head shake is gone and I can't really say there's a cause and effect relationship, but I have wondered if lowering the rear has made the bike more stable. Have fun.



Bogus Dave

</p>
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,050 Posts
Mono12R,

If you look at the toop of your rear shock mounting you will see a large nut holding the shock to the bike with a split pin fitted.

If you look underneath the casting immediately below this nut, you will find another nut!! This is the ride height adjuster!

If you slacken off the top nut to the split pin and "unscrew" the lower nut, this will increase the height of the rear end!! Do this in increments so as not to move it too much all at once, but, make a note of how many threads are above the top nut so that you can revert to stock if you wish later on.

Regards

Ted

</p>
 
G

·
Ted, good post. I'm aware of what you are saying. I have spent time with an extended swingarm, dogbones, and fork tubes to find the right combination of front and rear ride height for the drag strip and Sunday rides. That was in another life, prior to the Z. My inference was that because I lowered the rear of the Z with a 190/50, the bike was more stable and possibly that could have eliminated the minor headshake. Raising ride height a half inch, front or rear, can usually be felt by the rider in terms of steering response. BTW, I am very happy with the 190/50 rear.



Bogus Dave

</p>
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top