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First let me say, that this is a HOW TO and I do not warranty or guarentee it in anyway. If you do this you do it on your own will and knowledge. I know it works, because I use it, but gota CYA....

Ok.. Lets start with a parts list... and I will work on the how to tomorrow..

Do it yourself kit..

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3 - 1K W 0.75W 15-Turn PC-Mount Trimmer $2.49 Each, RadioShack
Cat.#: 271-342 Model: 271-342

3 - 10KW 0.75W 15-Turn PC-Mount Trimmer $2.49 Each, RadioShack Cat.#: 271-343 Model: 271-343

6 - 1N4733A 1W Zener Diode $0.99 (2 pack) RadioShack Cat.#: 276-565

1 - (EXAMPLE) Automotive Rocker Switch $2.99 RadioShack Cat.#: 275-730 Model: 275-730

1 - (EXAMPLE) Ultracompact Enclosure $1.99 RadioShack Cat.#: 270-288 Model: 27-288

1 - (EXAMPLE) Grid-Style PC Board-750 Holes $2.69 Cat.#: 276-158

15 - (EXAMPLE) Quick Disconnects (5 Pack) $1.69 Cat.#: 64-3131

1 - Cable/Wire -- Your choice here.. I use 22/24 AWG "STRANDED" wire..

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I say EXAMPLE, because it is just that... You can substatute to your likeing.. Just make sure you use STRANDED and not SOLID wire for your connection..

BTW.. I just used RS as a refrence, you can buy these parts anywhere...

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PCB Built and packaged.

I will do a few of these pre built if people are interested.

It will come assembled and packaged, and all you will be required to do is crimp the ends and make the connections, and provide your own switch if you want it.

(I will post a price tomorrow for this right here..., but im guessing 50 - 60 range.) but dont quote me... ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #2
HOW TO
Integrated Gear Indicator

First a little operational theory:

Operational information on the gauges:


Both the Fuel Gauge and Fuel Gauge operate based on a presented resistance.

For example.

The Temp Gauge has 8 segments (but actually 9 possible readings, more on that later)

To light the segments you need the following inline resistances. (Varies by year)

1st Segment - 14,200
2nd Segment - 10,200
3rd Segment - 5,200
4th Segment - 3,100
5th Segment - 1,600
6th Segment - 900
7th Segment - 740
8th Segment - 650

9th Position (not segment) - 600 or lower - All Segments Flash.

The Fuel Gauge has 8 segments as well but require must lower resistance.

1st Segment - 120
2nd Segment - 100
3rd Segment - 90
4th Segment - 75
5th Segment - 65
6th Segment - 40
7th Segment - 30
8th Segment - 10

NOTE**** If you plan on using the Fuel Gauge you need to get different value Trimmers, (rheostats) to compensate for the lower resistance values. Obviously the closer you can get to the original value the better, but you cant go under.


Now that you have that bit of knowledge you can see where you can do many things.
Pick which segments you want to light up for which gear, and even add a bit of resistance to compensate for that inaccurate fuel gauge you have.


Operational information on the Gear Position Switch:

As we all know the bike has 6 gears. (although we look for 7th). Well just like you and I need to know what gear we are in, so does the ECU to compensate for engine load, acceleration etc.

The operation for this is simple. The gear position switch acts like a ground selector for the ECU. 6 positions (actually 7 for neutral) on the gear position switch serve as a ground for the feeds from the ECU.

There are 6 leads (actually 7 for neutral) coming from the ECU to the gear position switch.

When you shift to first gear the 1st gear ECU lead is pulled to ground and this tells the ECU that the bike is in first gear.

The same happens for all 6 gears and neutral and only 1 ECU lead is pulled to ground at one time. So the ECU always knows what gear you are in.

Sounds pretty simple right?



So know we have to tie the two systems together to make it all work.

Things you need to know.

Gauge Cluster INPUTS. (actually outputs, they provide voltage)

(I WILL INSERT A PICTURE HERE)

Fuel Level Sensor - Pin # 2
Water Temp Sensor - Pin # 10

Pins are counted from Left to Right starting on top Row
LOOKING AT BACK OF GAUGE CLUSTER.
Top Left being #1

*Just remember to associate it with the corresponding wire in the harness plug.*

ECU Wiring Harness

(I WILL INSERT A PICTURE HERE)

Now keep in mind the following is from a 2002, and 00,01 vary slightly, we can add that info if someone wants to look it up.

There are 2 harness connections to the and all the gear detect circuits are in the small one on the 2002. ( I believe they are spread around on the 00, 01’s)

The small harness connection is numbered 35 – 60 strarting at the top left just like the gauge unit.

LOOKING AT BACK OF ECU.
Top Left being #1

*Just remember to associate it with the corresponding wire in the harness plug.*

1st Gear Detect - Pin 47
2nd Gear Detect - Pin 53
3rd Gear Detect - Pin 60
4th Gear Detect - Pin 46
5th Gear Detect - Pin 52
6th Gear Detect - Pin 59


Ok… now lets hook this thing up.

This is the safest way in my opinion, but not the easiest. You can do this with 6 fewer connections, but I figured this would be the better way for most.

Connection is pretty simple. Let start with first gear. (all other gears will be the same)

Im going to assume we are going to use the Temp Gauge and I am going to start my indicator on the 2nd Segment (this will put my 3rd gear at a straight LEFT Alignment, and be easy to reference.)

Things we know.
1st gear on the ECU is pin # 47
Temp gauge input on the gauge cluster is pin # 10
2nd Position indicator on the temp gauge requires a resistance of 10,200 ohm or 10.2K.

First thing to do is cut the ECU (#47) wire. Don’t cut it to close. When I cut a wire on a harness the first thing I do is Male / Female spade it. That way I can always just plug it back together later on.

So lets do that now… Attach a Male spade to the Harness side of the wire you just cut and a Female to the ECU side.

Ok.. leave the ECU site alone for a few, we will come back to that.

Now we need to make a connection from the harness to the gauge assembly. It will go something like this.

Gauge -------------- 10K Rheostat -------------------Harness

To make this all come together it would be best to solder all of your wires and rheostats to a pcb board. (project board at RadioHack) After all you are going to end up with 6 inputs and 6 outputs and you need to tie all the outputs together to get them to pin #10.

This illustration should help.



As you can see the connection from the harness connects to the rheostat and then the rheostat connects to the gauge assembly.

Once that connection is made you now need to make the ECU connection, after all it still needs to know what gear you are in.

The ECU connection is made the same way it was before, but with one exception. You need to add a Zener diode inline to prevent any bleed or possible chance for electrical discharge to the ECU.

Once that is done you can test the First Gear indicator and adjust the rheostat until it lights up the proper segment.

All remaining connections are made exactly the same way. Simple right!!!


To toggle between Gear Indicator and Temp gauge simply add a toggle switch between the Original Temp input and the Gear Indicator input. Just like in the image above.

I apologize if I slowed down on the details at the end, just got tired of typing… but feel free to ask any questions.

Trust me its not as hard as it looks… ;)

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This is the beginning of the 7 Segment Gear Indicator

I will post follow up data tonight or tomorrow, but until then here is an image to ponder..... ;)




I will follow up shortly with the details..

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i'm waiting very patiently! 8)
 

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boost - what's the news? :)
 

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looking VERY MUCH forward to it! :)
 

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Nice article Boost.. Very nice.

Thanks for putting the time in to write this up....
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks blitz...

Does take alot of time to do it....

BTW.. I started on the 7 Segment Indicator ... See above...

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boost, is this 7 segment indicator the one where you have an external box with LEDs or whatever that display what gear you are in?
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Yes... that is the one that Actually displays what gear you are in...

1, 2, 3.. etc.....

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sweet...are the parts expensive? overall, is it hard to do? (i actually have an electronics engineer friend who is going to help me with it)
 
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Actually no..

You can do that for 20-30 bucks easy....

I will work on the actuall instructions today.

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Digital Gear Indicator-

These instructions were taken from "Ridge-Racers" page so all credit must go to whoever that is. His page is no longer active, but I had copied it to disk since I dont have phone/internet in my shop yet. So I posted it for your viewing pleasure here.

I can also e-mail out a zip file that is the same as the web pages. It is 529kb.

Remember all credit goes to "Ridge-Racer".
 
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Miklos,

Glad you had that... I was just gonna link to Ridge Racers page for the info myself, but like you said its not there anymore..

Good move on your part for copying it...

Now I dont have to do all that typeing...... whew...

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Boostable-

No problem on the posting, I was just hoping that I wasn't stepping on any toes. I usually save cool stuff and burn it to CD's so I can use it out in the shop.

It's too bad Ridge-Racers site is down, he had a lot of cool stuff on it. For those who want to try-
http://www.ridge-racer.com/index.htm
 
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OOO No.. no problem there...

The first thing I did when someone brought it up was his site..

Not sure what happened to it... sad though.. you are right he had some good info on that site.

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thanks very much for your help guys - i appreciate it! :)

now all i need to do is show all the information to an electronics engineer friend of mine and watch him do the work! :twisted:
 
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