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Discussion Starter #1
bad first. lifted the hg when pushing the upper limits of hp. good news is its an "easy" fix. I guess 27 psi of boost was too much but the pull at 25 was pretty sweet. it spit some coolant out the exhaust on the 27psi pull.

my 12 has a Master Power T3/T4 T60-1 turbo, home fabbed header, WA cooler built into the frame, AEM progressive water meth injection modified with Devils own nozzels plumbed into the TBs using some of my old nitrous stuff. It runs on 91 octane pump gas. MS2 ECU with upgraded firmware. 255lph Walbro external fp, AEM 1:1 regulator, ID 725cc injectors. I did all the work myself except for the tig. its been a real learning curve!
motor is stock bore and stroke, JE turbo pistons, and a ported head/modified combustion chambers by me. final CR ended up being 8.7:1. two stock intake cams, APE adjustable sprockets. APE studs, stock 01 crank and rods, 02 cases with oiling mods to restrict oil to trans(by me), R&D trans w/billet Robinson 1-4 output gears. Muzzy clutch basket, MTC lockup. I had 6 hd Muzzy springs in it and took my voodoo hold back springs off of the lock up to i had 4 arms applying pressure to make sure it didnt drive thru the clutch on the dyno(may have been over kill). Muzzy dry sump oiling system, filter relocator ect.

I had to build an attachment to be able to use the dyno. (the real one from Mustang is about 3k$$) this was the first time it had ever been put into bike mode, and i believe it had a calibration error. the operator is going to look into it for future bike use. i was mainly worried about getting a safe tune up and wasnt set on hp numbers, but for those who care, i believe it was reading exactly double what it was really making. at 25 psi it was showing 834 hp, so half would be 417. add roughly 15% to convert Mustang to dynojet hp and its about 479 at the wheel. it may have more in it as it was in the low 11:1 range AFR wise.

so Im waiting for Schnitz to get back to me about another Cometic HG. Im open to suggestions on changing the setup. thinking copper and ss rings may be required to hold more than 25psi on a 12?

pics soon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
pics soon. with the dry sump, i hope at least a full yr
 

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Low 11's are common A/F for LSR, not sure for drag. We ran high 10's on Racheal's and everything in the motor was pristine...after many 1/4 mile and LSR passes. It made decent, safe power in that configuration. Low 300-range on 20 psi, standard T3 with secondary injection, and a very conservative -6 degrees of timing (street bike).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was thinking 11.5 would be my final target at full boost, but i may just leave it alone.
srry to bs everyone with lies of a big nitrous setup all this time :p

this build has happened over various locations, and i cant thank everyone enough thats helped privately on my secret project. you know who you are guys, DM, JG, WH, DS, CH, ppl on other forums and local.
not trying to rip anyone off, but Ive sort of nicknamed my build the ultra ghetto 12. based on what it reminds me of. Motorheads ghetto turbo kits and Richards RCC ultra turbo kits. this has definately been a budget build which is why its taken over a yr. I havent allways had the best equipment or places to work, but I make due with what I have, and then every now and then I splurge a little if my CCs are getting close to paid off :D

pics

header flange/turbo flange 1/2 mild steel.



hanging the turbo off of dads bike (making a jig). this was when he swapped to my old Brocks system and timing was perfect, my bike was in my apt bedroom at the time(no joke) and i needed to be able to weld the jig together. not possible in my bedroom!


making the header 1.5in schedual 10 304SS pipe
this design is one i would change a little if copying, i cant get 1 of the header bolts in, but so far its been ok. i think because the flange is so thick.


I would cut and fit pieces, using a 4.5 in grinder and a dremmel, then run and get stuff tacked by my tig guy.






my work station, making the best of what i had :)


the rest of the exh was easier. 16 gauge 304 and a tiwinder meg. it was important to me to have good ground clearance both going down the track and making the turn to the return lane. I tucked it in tight as best i could, then fitted the gate. got it for a steal on SH.org. its, big, its rusty, but it works and has been over 220 at bonneville.







charge pipe. 2 1/4 tubing



frame mods and cooler.
this next part took a lot of fab work, and if doing it again, i would make a few small changes. used a WA cooler from frozenboost.com. core size is similar to whats used in the older ultra kits. i basically used my blown up motor as a jig to hold the frame from twisting when it was cut up/ welded on. went thru several design ideas during the build process

this part felt just like i was cutting off my own hand(minus the obvious lack of physical pain)


yes Muzzy stacks



1/4 plate




the cover has 2 grooves dremmel'd into it, and i sealed it with permatex ultra black(think engine cases). its no oring seal, but it working. after yrs of cursing the tiny inspection covers i really wanted a big one. this was the time to get some room to work when installing velocity stacks.
scotts damper mount, boost proof and never have to stick hands up in the frame for the nuts ever again. 1/2 in square stock drilled, tapped, then the ends of the holes capped with weld, flipped over and welded in..





 

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Discussion Starter #8
water meth, direct port. only real way i could see getting even distribution post cooler


the pump and tank are located where the top half of the gas tank used to be, i need to get current pics

this was a tight fit


filter and return. i just made an adapter plate and used the oem tank gasket. pump is located in the battery box


cut down my stock rad to clear the turbo. electric water pump

i used part of another stock rad as the heat exchanger for the WA cooler. 2 seperate cooling systems. the second water pump is beside my fuel pump



turbo oil feed. i did a coil to hopefully account for thermal expansion. i didnt think a hard line would work in a short run, but the coil is flexable. the fitting on the filter relocator was soldered full, then drilled out to .063. this is something i want to check out now that its been on the dyno. and had some heat. its 1/8ss line, same as i use in nitrous systems and my water meth setup.


gauges. so far the MS2 can run the tach, but the speedo isnt working. i also have the water temp working. i wasnt sure if i would have been able to get it going with my computer programming "skillz" so i got the autometer gauge just incase


missing tooth wheel( cut one tooth off) so the ms2 can read crank pos without cam input. easiest way to get things running. batch fire the injectors and wasted spark

I plan on upgrading to full sequential with cam input at a later date.

oiling mods





pistons in the hole just a little. 2 base gaskets

from checking cr


modified chambers to lower cr. std size valves, std seats, stock IN, SS EX
running Carpenter 65lb springs, and APE Ti retainers



 

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Discussion Starter #10
thank you
 

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That's something else, Fair Play To You.

And all your own work.

Can't wait to see what numbers you put down the strip. :crazyloco:

Thanx for sharing.

Dave.


.
 

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Scott,

Your one sick twisted bastard. How do you think this shit up?:thumbup: I hope your careful and dont kill yourself on this "little secret" of yours. looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thx guys, its been my life for the past yr. allmost every evening(9 out of 10 easy!) and every wknd that im not at the track with dad

how many pounds are you running now Ken?

its still kinda a street bike, in a pro street kinda way, can even fill up at the local gas station. fill the gas and check the washer fluid :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
heres a printout i was given, first clean pull on gate pressure (6lb spring turned out to be 5.3) and the pull at 25.3psi
keep in mind what i said earlier about the correction factor or calibration error...
 
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