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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a strap and I'm lookin for a start point, how much or how hard should the forks be compressed, and what about rebound settings & compression ? should the rear shocked be locked out via rebound, dampening. I'm running a ZX-7 (00) with D&D can, factory jet kit, very mild head work, no kleen air.Thanks for any help!



11.33 @ 131 MPH

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15/46 WOW ! I pull the front down about as far as I can by hand and drop the forks through the tripple clamp about 1/2 to 3/4... that should be plenty up front. You can lower the rear via muzzys lowering links...you should'nt have to mess with the shock setting.

</p>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub56.ezboard.com/bkawasakizx12r.showLocalUserPublicProfile?login=bob>bob</A> at: 7/20/02 7:53:20 am
 
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I had the rear lowered via the top mount, removed the nut (lower one) I just put it back though, needed to bring it back up alittle, I was jus wondering if locking out the rear shock was a common practice at the strip ? The front I'll just strap, if you lower through the clamps your wheel base will shrink , I want it is long as possable.The 15/46 is something I'm playin with, I think a 44 might work well, remember this is a ZX-7.

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Wheel base is gonna get shorter when u strap it as well. But the advantages of strapping down farrrrrrrrr outway the loss of a very little bit of wheelbase.

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Discussion Starter #6
Did the strap last night, felt alot better(low lift) high heat & humitidy really slowed me down. Kinda hard to tighten by yourself, any ideas? (ZX-7). Thanks!

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Usually, I start by finding a slight decline and put the bike in

Neutral, with the strap ( loop ) in 1 hand and the other on the brake lever, I start to roll forward ( slowly ) and depress the brake lever at the same time pulling the loop tighter ( when you brake the forks drop ) usually only takes 1-2 trys to pull it all the way down for me. ( I have frts set up for 190lb rider )

it may take a few more trys if its stiffer.?? hope this helps





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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Safe, thanks for the feedback, Thats the way I do it , but I was wondering if you should strap down till there is NO susp. movement?and where is the best (safe) place to route the strap? I've seen afew 12s with the strap around the top of the frame, seems like that would bind your steering. I've got mine on a ZX-7 and its looped through the lower triple clamp, dosn't bind steering at all, just makes for alot of extra strap hangin around(been tieing it around the fork) comments?

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speaking for myself only...



I pull it down until there is almost no travel 1/2" maybe

between the snorkle and the top of the fender ( yes, I have a couple dings in the plastic ) leaving just alittle for the roughness when coming back up the return road..



as for placement, mine goes over the frame and yes , it serves as a poor mans steering dampener ( sp )



when I am riding on the steet though, I only pul it 1/2 way

down ( unless I have a very specfic reason to go tighter )

and there is enough play / travel / loosness that I feel safe

riding that way.



ps i have a large binder clip to hold the loose end up after ive looped it under and back over the frame so nothing hangs loose... That would sux. be safe and let me know if you want me to take any pixs...



Steve

Never Ride Faster Than Your Guardian Angel Can Fly!!</p>
 

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warning-warning-warning!!!!!!



strapping the bike REALLY makes the launch more predictable, but watch out when using the front brake when strapped!!!!!



I learned by touching the f brake ar 20 mph in the turn onto the return road, and the front wheel instantly skidded sideways, almost lowsiding the bike. Scared the shit outa me. In a straight line its fine, just not in a curve.

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