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Discussion Starter #1
Need to replace one of my rod bearings in the 12R and looking at the side of it the paint looks dark green. Now there are only three colors of bearings for this motor, so could it be custom or just a washed out color along side the bearing?

Thanks in advance
 

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Dude it's NOT a custom bearing.... Think about this for a minute.. If that bearing has been hot the color will most likely be changed a bit. ( ie.. it shows wear where the others do not it's been HOT!) you need to look at the other bearings to see of they show the color better first. Actually I have the horse before the cart here.... FIRST thing I should have ask is this------------> Do you have a shop manual (Bible) ? The shop manual will instruct you how to figure out what bearings you need based on markings on the parts or NO markings on the parts at all.

If you don't have a Genuine Kawasaki shop manual get one it answers all your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not trying to ask ridiculous questions, just trying to get this right the first time as this is a turbo motor
 

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I don't think the number on the bearing relates to the size.

You should be able to work out the size (colour) of the bearing by the marks on the con-rod and the crankshaft, a description of the procedure is on page 243 of the zx12 manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think the number on the bearing relates to the size.

You should be able to work out the size (colour) of the bearing by the marks on the con-rod and the crankshaft, a description of the procedure is on page 243 of the zx12 manual.

I'll check the markings tomorrow, thanks!




Yes. You are in dire need of a manicure.

:D
Lol! I weld all day everyday..Can't help it
 

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Dude it's NOT a custom bearing.... Think about this for a minute.. If that bearing has been hot the color will most likely be changed a bit. ( ie.. it shows wear where the others do not it's been HOT!) you need to look at the other bearings to see of they show the color better first. Actually I have the horse before the cart here.... FIRST thing I should have ask is this------------> Do you have a shop manual (Bible) ? The shop manual will instruct you how to figure out what bearings you need based on markings on the parts or NO markings on the parts at all.

If you don't have a Genuine Kawasaki shop manual get one it answers all your questions.
I agree with Slingshot.

Since you have the case split, put a mic on everything. You did say it has a different crank. Is the rod journal damaged? Does it even have the right bearings in it from the previous build? You have gone this far, it would be a shame to guess and be wrong.

cmg
 

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Case is not split, cylinder and pan are off
Ahhh.
The other rod you hav out, are the bearings good? Can they be measured?

Also, it will be easier to put all 4 piston and rod assemblies in the block first. Less chance at damaging the rings and a lot easier to assemble. A advantage to split the case. Then you can measure and be sure. Also you can inspect the trans. Just my 2cents.

cmg
 

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Trying to avoid splitting the case as I'm sure it's a nightmare to put back together
I see.
It's not as bad as you envision. The half that has the oil pan will lift straight off.
The rest of the internals stay in the other half. Then you will see that it is pretty straight forward.

But I understand better now.

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I see.
It's not as bad as you envision. The half that has the oil pan will lift straight off.
The rest of the internals stay in the other half. Then you will see that it is pretty straight forward.

But I understand better now.

cmg
So as long as i keep it bottom up, nothing will fall out? This is actually good news
 

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Not trying to ask ridiculous questions, just trying to get this right the first time as this is a turbo motor
There's nothing wrong with wanting to get it right the first time but there's no way around splitting the cases and checking every part.. Plastigage should be outlawed in my opinion. Just more guess work or eyeball guessing... You'll see one thing and I'll see something else with that stuff and if anything moves during the torquing process it's junk and has to be redone. Even when you think you done it right did you? Did it not move? Was it perfectly still? Did it match up to this mark better than that one? You know my eyes aren't what they once were? -----------------> Get the point? Nothing replaces actual measuring the parts. Even telescoping gauges leave room for inaccurate measurements since they are done to feel and then measured by a mic to feel yet again and everyone will have a different feel on a set of mics.

Your questions are all valid but there's no getting out of taking the thing completely apart. Plastigage is a way for people to not be required to own a bunch of expensive mics but it's just a guess at the end of the day. You are depending on a guess on which mark on the package you smashed piece of plastic more closely matches .... I want to help you do this right the first time so my post aren't intended to piss anyone off or come off like my way is the only way because it's not. It's just a very good way to ensure success and avoid a costly learning experience
 

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So as long as i keep it bottom up, nothing will fall out? This is actually good news
Correct. Nothing will fall out. You will be able to pull the crank and leave the trans in place. Make sure it's in neutral.

Measure. Then put the assembled pistons and rods in the block. Then line up the rods with the rod journal, cap it.

cmg
 

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Trying to avoid splitting the case as I'm sure it's a nightmare to put back together
I'm trying to help you avoid the real nightmare which will be spending a lot of time and money and end up with a broken motor shortly after you fire it up.
 
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