[zx12mark]

If your H2 has been done at how many miles and how many were adjusted. Mine is a 2015. I had to change all 16 on my H2. 4 were under the tightest spec and 12 were at the tightest limit. I put all at the loosest max spec. I am never tearing this motherfucker apart again to do this. I’m 65 now so my son will be doing it at 45000. ILL be ashes. Its got 15500 mile now.
You are a great bike mechanic if you can do this whole major service and I SALUTE YOU SIR.

 

[Duck00]

My 2015 is at about 21,000 kms / 13,000 miles.

Just been looking at the major service in the manual for 25k/15miles.
I've previously changed the cams over to H2R cams, but I agree this bike needs a lot of hardware removed just to get to the cam cover!

Debating whether to do the major myself, though the only thing really stopping me would be the supercharger axial play check which needs a dial style meter which I don't have and would have to justify getting for the very occasional check.

Interesting to read you had to change out so many shims, but I guess getting them spot on while in there makes sense.
Just to confirm, is it better to have them all on the "loose" side of gap? As if I'm right they tend to "tighten" up over time?

 

[Duck00]

Oh, and incase you're wondering, I have done valve adjustment many times on the 12 so understand how to do it, just commenting on the best side of tight or loose to have the gap for optimal setting.

 

[color me gone]

Oh, and incase you're wondering, I have done valve adjustment many times on the 12 so understand how to do it, just commenting on the best side of tight or loose to have the gap for optimal setting.

Tight or loose valve lash tolerance did not change horsepower figures with my 1427. So loose would give more time between shim replacement.

Cmg

 

[Duck00]

Thanks cmg.

 

[zx12mark]

Oh, and incase you're wondering, I have done valve adjustment many times on the 12 so understand how to do it, just commenting on the best side of tight or loose to have the gap for optimal setting.

How many miles on your H2 when you swapped the cams. Did you notice more performance.
How many valves were at the limit or changed. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Duck00]

H2R cams installed at 13,416kms/8336miles.
Bike ran very well with them and final Woolich tuning on road and dyno, got 262 rwhp on what tuner said was a low reading dyno, have since fitted intercooler so tuner reckons even more is possible if I want bragging rights.

Yet to do the shims, though the engine has been rebuilt after one of the cam gear wheel bolts decided to back out while flat out in 5th gear on track in 2019 - long story. That was at 17,000km/10,563miles so I'm not expecting them to be out by much if at all, will still check though. I had done several hours of road data logging and a track day with data logging and a 4 hour dyno run to fine tune it and no problems at all until then!

Bikes are fun!

 

[zx12mark]

 

[zx12mark]

 

[zx12mark]

 

[zx12mark]

 

[Duck00]

Great pics Mark.
I'll soon be doing similar with the shim measurements.
Already got the pair valve delete.
Did you do the impeller axial play check?

 

[zx12mark]

Great pics Mark.
I'll soon be doing similar with the shim measurements.
Already got the pair valve delete.
Did you do the impeller axial play check?

YES the impeller was in spec thank GOD.The only fix if it is`nt is a NEW ONE.
4000.00 FUCKING DOLLARS

 

[Duck00]

Yeah, I'll be doing that check soon too.
Just got to get myself an axial dial gauge, and work out how to set it up without buying the Kwaka mounting plate they have in the manual.

 

[zx12mark]

We are going to Cancun in the am for our 40th anniversary. I will post pics of a simple plate set up that the magnet for the dial indicator sticks to.
Next weekend.

 

[Duck00]

That will be great Mark!

I'd rather not spend time and money getting a workshop to do what I can.

 

[zx12mark]

That will be great Mark!

I'd rather not spend time and money getting a workshop to do what I can.

That will be great Mark!

I'd rather not spend time and money getting a workshop to do what I can.

That will be great Mark!

I'd rather not spend time and money getting a workshop to do what I can.

A piece of scrape steel 1/8 inch. Those are the

OEM bolts holding it just snug in place.

 

[Duck00]

Excellent Mark!

 

[Duck00]

Mark, did you do the vacuum synchronisation check on the throttle bodies while in there?
If so, did you use a standard mercury gauge set or similar? The manual mentions checking the pair valve etc. but I have that disabled anyway. Getting close to doing the major service now I have annual leave.

 

[zx12mark]

Yes I did. Do everything by the book. That being said my 4 T B were in the window but I didn’t see how to adjust them back in spec if they are out. I saw no adjustment screws like normal.
I think there are 4 sealed up screw pilot type places but I didn’t fuck with them. I had planned on running rubber vacuum hoses from the nipples and capping them of for the next sync check. But with no screws to adjust I aborted that trick. It takes so many hours to do this service. Do everything it says and be done with it for 10 years or more. Triple check all your work. Before removing the cam chain I set to the timing marks in the book then make scratches on the cams and chain side plates to line back up. That’s a 15 thousand dollar engine. Ya got to get it right.

I also replaced the oem cam chain tensioner because it didn’t seem like it was working correctly after I jacked around with trying to reset it.
APE is good stuff.