[Guest]

i am really into drag racing i am about to change my front sprocket but i am stuck between the 16 or the 17 tooth sprocket .has anyone tried a 16 ?

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[easyrider]

I don't know of anyone who has, but that might be bending your chain quite a bit. I may be off base but I would go with a 17 and then go up to a 48 on the back if you really want to gear it. I think it might be best to top out in the 1/4 at the top of 3rd instead of shifting to 4th at the end, but I may be wrong, I am not much of a drag racer.

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[Guest]

thanks i will try anything right about now

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[DenverYZF]

You might want to read this before you go to nuts with the sprockets..... www.twocreeks.net/toby/chainwp.html



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[Guest]

I tried it, then took it right off. way too undergeared, and it was really pinching the chain. don't waste yer $$$$.

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[icee]

Thx for the cool math lesson Denver.



Staying with the 18 to avoid chain wear and going to a larger rear sproket for free torque multiplication sounds good. Problem is, unsprung weight goes up, and I may need a chain stretcher to get the chain on. On the other hand, 2 extra links may work.



][cee

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[Barbarian-CBX]

The silver 12s usually have to go to a 19 or 20 tooth just to keep the front down in 6th. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"> <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol">

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[DenverYZF]

I found that link on chain info on the YZF boards, pretty interesting I think.

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[Guest]

Honestly, the 17/46 combo is ideal when used with a stock swing-arm. (The wheelbase will be slightly increased & that makes it a bit easier to launch.)

When using a stock swing-arm, the wheelbase with a 18/48 combo is way to short to launch hard.



Not to mention...when the competition sees the stock 46 rear they tend to think..."ok, this guy won't be hard to beat" & that's when they really get spanked.

<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT="">



"Be Humble, a lot was accomplished before you were ever born"</p>

 

[VinnieZX12R]

Mark, are you liquored up again???

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[Blitzkrieg]

Mad Dog 20/20 for sure. Mark is hitting the fortified wine tonight!!!LOL

"You must be fast, 'cause I was haulin' ass when I passed you."</p>

 

[Barbarian-CBX]

Good though. Well I'm all sobered up and back at work this morning. Got to travel to Lynchburg, VA on business - be back tomorrow night. You guys will have to get along without me tonight. No Richard, no Mark. DON'T GET USE TO IT SISSY BOYS!! Go Green! And take the pink, blue-poo, and other non-silver 12s wiff ya!



BTW, I hate hell out of my damn job!! It's true, I am the company shit magnet! I hate the world! Think I'll kill some kittens tonight.

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[Guest]

Fortunately, front sprockets are inexpensive so you can experiment with both. Start with the 17T, go to the dragstrip and evaluate. If you are undergeared (16T?) the bike may be too wheelie prone. Also if you have a short first gear, you don't have much time to get your feet up to get set to shift. Plus, it's darn hard to get a good shift with the front tire airborne. Easy's idea of using 3 gears to avoid the extra shift is good, so see where you are in terms of rpm and gear at the finish.



Short gear works well with extended swing-

arms/lowered bikes/air shifters. Some riders think that reaction time is improved wth smaller front sprockets as well as being easier on the clutch. You can get off the clutch quicker with shorter gear,......less clutch slipping, less heat. As far as chain wear, don't be concerned. Many bikes use 15 and 16 tooth front gears as well as the mighty ZX11 with 17TD. Let us know what works for your riding style. Bogus Dave www.Down1Up5.com

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[Guest]

Forgot to mention.......those smaller front sprockets give you more wheelbase. Man, we need that. Most mods have pros and cons. Use what works for YOU.

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[Ted Edwards]

Ihampel!

Nice picture! It's identical to the one on my T shirt that I just got for a present!! (pity that it's green though)!

Regards

Ted

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[Guest]

i will buy them both and try them .as far as comeing up in front i dont think that will be to much of a problem i have lowered it so much i dont think it will come up.and i do have a muzzy air shifter if it does thanks for all the advice keep it coming..

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[Guest]

In my opinion, no matter how lowered your Z is, it will wheelstand at full throttle in first gear, especially with the 17 and 16T front sprockets. But I have not done this and I would like to hear from the guys that have. The 12 makes so much horsepower that I think you will need about an 8 inch extension in wheelbase to keep the front end down at full throttle. Who can illuminate us? Fun, ain't it? Bogus Dave

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[Guest]

guys, my 12 is stock wheelbase,lowered, strapped with 17 tooth countershaft,and i am getting the throttle wide open in first gear. 1.63 60ft. its a little tricky though.

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[Guest]

I asked the same question 17 vrs 16 th they told me you could only use the 16 th when the bike is lowered or it will rub the swing arm to much. I'm runnin the 17/48 it works nice ps; if I can get my bike wide open in 1st its time to trade up to one I cant

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[Guest]

Roy, that 1.63 60 footer tells me you know how to ride,.....impressive. And saying it's a "little tricky" is an understatement.



Just how slammed are you? Are you using the Muzzy struts, lowered 2 1/2 inches in the rear? What about tire/fender clearance on street rides?



How low is your front in the tubes, 1 1/4"? How about clearance with the front fender?



I am trying to figure out what constitutes a conservative lowering set-up that will still work for me on Sunday sportbike rides. Thanks. Bogus Dave

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