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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All! Robodoc is the name and I have had my 2007 ZX-14 since March 2007. I also own a 1977 KZ 1000, 1978 KZ 1000, 1989 GL 1500 Goldwing, a 1975 TX 500 Yamaha a 1974 CB 350 Honda and finally a 1974 Yamaha chopper. I'm a old guy with a few old bikes. It's been pretty cold here in Michigan and I have only had a chance to ride a couple of this year so far. I pulled out my Ninja and rode for a couple of hours without issue. Later on that day I noticed my high beam indicator light was on so I turned them off and the indicator light just when dim but still on. Then both blinker indicators came on and the dash lights went crazy and the lights high and low beams just stopped working. I checked the fuses no issue, replaced the high and low relays and all four lights. Still nothing! I'm getting 12V at all locations still nothing. Has anyone had this issue? This is a garaged bike, the only time that she is outside I'm riding her. All connectors look like new I could use some help. Thanks!
 

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If say you place the high beam switch back on, the lights come on, nothing goes dim = Switch and/or wires relating to hi/low wires and related loops to that one move at the switch... If all lights come on again and it duplicates what you did before touching anything.

Move the switch back to high beam and report. Seems you covered most of it. What's with keeping a yam 500? Must be a good runner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I rang out the entire wire group on the left side controls. High & Low beams, horn, turn signals. All of the wires are fine from the switch group to the connector. I have even tried ringing both sides of the connector and there are no issues. Otherwise the bike runs fine on other issues at all. I am really stumpped at this point.
 

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Maybe a dumb question, but is there any chance the bulbs are bad? Trying to keep it simple. If you have all the 12v lines, you may want to take a look at the grounds, make sure there is no voltage on any of those grounds. Are you still using the original battery? As you know, bikes often do strange things without a fully charged battery. Longshot, but possible. Good luck, hope you get it figured out.
 

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Since it is mentioned that 12v exists, was this measure by grounding the meter's negative lead to the frame, or the circuit's grounding wires? As mentioned, there could be a lack of proper grounding.

Also, when checking continuity of wires, don't use the ring/buzz feature of a meter - get an ohm reading.
 

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On the left side of the there's a small black terminal with six black and yellow wires running to it. These are the ground wires for the headlights and mine got so hot it began to melt the plastic cap that goes over the housing. I pulled the cap off then removed the terminal, cleaned any plastic I could see on the inside and cleaned the six prong pin off with a scotch bright pad. Put it back together and everything is back to normal now it's time to figure out ehats causing it to get so hot.
 

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Key off, then key on, I have no headlight. I have relays to trigger the headlights on once all the current is sent to the starter, causes less taxing of the battery draw.

I now back-probe the headlight sockets. One side says I come on when engine is running. I get zero current to the headlight socket being back-probed this wire.
I get current to the test light, but nothing to the headlight. Either I lost ground, because I found my own ground for the test light. Since I have current to the one lead, the other lead is for high beam, I may have a ground wire problem.
I get current to the high beam wire as I back-probe this 3rd wire. It's not the relay.
I either have a bulb problem or a ground problem.
I have a good fuse or the test light would not come on.
I have the [test] light come on when I start the engine. It's not the relay.

So the scenario says:

1. Battery good ~ Light.
2. Relay good ~ Lights test light
3. Fuse good ~ Current up to the light socket
4. Wire good ~ Hot side has integrity.
5. Ground ??? ~ Take my test light and back-probe ground at the light bulb socket.
6. Bulb ??? ~ Swap bulbs or see if the bulb lights off the battery only so no harness is involved.
 

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Key off, then key on, I have no headlight. I have relays to trigger the headlights on once all the current is sent to the starter, causes less taxing of the battery draw.

I now back-probe the headlight sockets. One side says I come on when engine is running. I get zero current to the headlight socket being back-probed this wire.
I get current to the test light, but nothing to the headlight. Either I lost ground, because I found my own ground for the test light. Since I have current to the one lead, the other lead is for high beam, I may have a ground wire problem.
I get current to the high beam wire as I back-probe this 3rd wire. It's not the relay.
I either have a bulb problem or a ground problem.
I have a good fuse or the test light would not come on.
I have the [test] light come on when I start the engine. It's not the relay.

So the scenario says:

1. Battery good ~ Light.
2. Relay good ~ Lights test light
3. Fuse good ~ Current up to the light socket
4. Wire good ~ Hot side has integrity.
5. Ground ??? ~ Take my test light and back-probe ground at the light bulb socket.
6. Bulb ??? ~ Swap bulbs or see if the bulb lights off the battery only so no harness is involved.
If you're looking for a solution see my post above and start there. I was honestly ready to part this thing out and get a new one because I was so frustrated with it. Over 3 weeks of beating my head against the wall and looking at wiring diagrams (which isn't one if my strong points I may add) and there it was staring me in the face the entire time. Btw this 6 black and yellos from the headlights run back and split off in to 2 wires then down to 1 whic leads to the connector that mounts to the side if the battery tray. Start there and I'm betting that's the issue.
 

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BUSA, do you run hids? Run with the high beams on? Accessories off the headlight system? Something to make that ground "junction box" cook hot?
I do not have HID's but they're an aftermarket headlight, I have a secondary fan and my AF monitor. The second fan is wired in to the stock harness so it kicks on when the stocker does and my AF monitor is wired off of my right side corner marker. I had this issue before I installed the AF monitor but that may have put the icing on the cake but I need to go over everything with a meter and see what's pulling the most and change it up.
 
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