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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, ever since Ive owned this 12 I had a semi loud knocking in the front end whenever I ride over rough pavement or bumps. Ive done searches over and over trying to find an answer to this problem that others have had as well. Today I pulled all the front plastics off the bike and rode around, and to my dismay the knock still exists. Ive heard it could be things like the front fairing stay, the brake pads, the ram air grill and possibly the ram air tubes. None of these things are the culprit as I removed them all. There was a poster that said there was a loose bolt under the triple tree main bolt, but I dont have anything that can crack that big main bolt, so I couldnt check that. I noticed the radiator has a fair amount of play in it on the bottom, so if I grab either side of the radiator near the bottom, while standing in front of the bike, there maybe an inch of play, not sure if thats normal but all the top bolts of the radiator are tight, cant seem to find the lower bolts. However if I hold the radiator and bounce on the bike (using a friends help) the knock is still there. So any suggestions that I missed?

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y0tatYvNZ0[/URL]
 

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It could be time for steering stem bearings or just need to be tightened back down. That would be the bolt under the upper triple that u had mentioned. It also mat be the front upper fairing stay. Check the two bolts that connect it to the frame in front of steering stem. I'm confident that one of these is your culprit.
 

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The closer you move the camera to the top crown, the more it sounds like a loose neck.

1. Remove center crown nut.
2. Loosen upper pinch bolts of top crown.
3. Lift the top crown to see the two locking nuts with a locking flap washer call it.
4. Lift the locking flap so the nuts spin.
5. You know what? Tear the front end down, clean and repack the bearings.
6. Spin the lower lock nut till your knock stops: by moving the front wheel fore and aft.
7. This is the tricky part. You are going to torque the top crown over both lock nuts.
8. You'll now have to lift the front wheel off the ground, swing the forks side to side: so they do not bind/lock/feel like it has way too much drag.
9. That trick is to move the lock nuts back up the threads, and off the bearing load. Retorque the crown nut and feel for smooth swings = No knock fore and aft ~ That balance between bind and perfect freeplay at the bearing load: the bend tab is in place.
10 Tighten pinch bolts at the top crown. Done.
 

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Sounds like something adrift within the forks to me ?....no oil maybe ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is oil in the shocks for sure, if I compress and release them hard enough, I can hear the oil slurping inside.
 

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It could be time for steering stem bearings or just need to be tightened back down. That would be the bolt under the upper triple that u had mentioned. It also mat be the front upper fairing stay. Check the two bolts that connect it to the frame in front of steering stem. I'm confident that one of these is your culprit.
This person Is 100% correct , so don't contradict your self jgic73 . :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Using the steps mentioned by Hubz, can I do the work without jacking the bike up? At least till the point of testing the free play back and forth? Also, when testing the free play, whats the best way to accomplish lifting the bike? Straps from the garage rafter or cherry picker? When you use those methods how are you running your straps?
 

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The rear wheel is in 1st. The side stand is down. Nail a bunch of 2x4's high enough, wide enough, so as to push the right handlebar up, the bike lifts off the ground with the rear wheel/side stand still on the ground. You kick the 2x4 under the pipe/frame/case/pick which?

You can now pull the wheel off, drop a fork out of each pincher, spin the top crown off, spin the lockers off, brake clean the bearing cages and races. Pack with marine grade grease.

Note the divots in the races when cleaned. These are more or less drop pockets, where it would be hard to bring the steering out of the dip. You take up the gap upon repack, but if really wasted, you setup the front end so it goes lock to lock, it may sway back and forth and remain in center, i.e., fall back into the pocket. Understand that move?
 
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