Kawasaki World banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,336 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I get asked this now and then, so having just done one here I decided to get a few pics. Unlike the A model which has the more desirable return style fuel system and vac/boost referenced 1:1 FPR, the B model like just about everything else these days has a dead head system with the FPR in the tank running a fixed pressure. Depending on what style of kit you are going to run, you will want either a 6:1 regulator known as an FMU, or a 1:1 regulator. each has their pros and cons which I wont get into at this time.

Step 1. remove everything from the tank plate!

Step 2. cut part of the metal assembly off so that it looks like this.

16466

After cutting, file/sand all sharp edges!!!

Step 3. drill a 9/16 hole for a -6 bulkhead fitting (see pics of completed assembly). debur any sharp edges! you can use a straight bulkhead with a 90 degree hose end or a 90 degree BH and a str hose end. either way, aim the hose backwards so that it loops around to the rear of the tank before going forward, this will allow the tank to be lifted up and down without kinking the hose (just like the oem setup). Use some Permatex thread sealant on the fitting where it meets the metal. this will prevent rusting and act as a back up seal. on the inside of the tank plate, use a little more thread sealant under a rubber/metal washer. the recommended one for this is FMSI part number 2126HP. if you cant find this, just be sure the rubber is rated for fuel. some are and some arent. Use some permanent strength lock tight on the bulkhead nut.

Step 4. Before mounting your fuel pump (with sock) with a hose clamp to the remaining metal post, bend the top part out to allow room for the ground wire, now tighten the clamp for the pump. make sure its not in the way for the low fuel indicator. This installation is using a Walbro GSS340 with its regular install kit. for systems that will be running under 400 hp, a GSS 242 is a decent choice and less amp draw than the 340.

Step 5. this is on its own so it doesnt get missed. throw any regular hose clamps in the garbage that may have came with your fuel pump kit. the kind with cut outs for the worm gear. use only smooth band efi clamps! you dont want to "cheese grater" your fuel lines.

Step 6. Decide if youre going to run a post filter in tank, or out of the tank inline before the fuel rail. A known good filter for out of the tank is a Wix 33323. This installation is using a filter from www.euromotoelectrics.com Part #: FF-859. its rated at 80 psi, so not a good one for use with an FMU style kit where fuel pressure will sometimes get upwards of 90-100 psi. Once you decide on filter location, you will need some SUBMERSIBLE fuel line. this meas it must Meet SAE 30R10 specifications. if it doesnt, it will not last inside a fuel tank, and will flake and fall apart. most fuel pump kits come with a very small piece of the correct fuel line, sometimes its not enough for a custom application. the walbro kit I'm using came with a z shaped piece that I cut in half for the line that connects the filter to the bulkhead fitting. to connect the pump to the filter, I used another product from euromoto. Part #: FP-HOSEKIT You can use "regular" 30r10 hose here as long as it doesnt kink. I wanted to try this style this time.

Step 7. cut wires to length and crimp some eyes on the ends. fairly straight forward where they go, same as oem.

Step 8. install pump assembly and make sure nothing is interfering with the float/fuel level gauge. the loop in the hose will be at the front of the tank close to the float. it may hit the top of the tank and kink if you loop it backwards as theres not as much height the further back you go.

Step 9. make a fuel line to go from the bulkhead to the fuel rail. depending on what type of kit or rail you have, you have several options. for 02-03 you can simply install an A model fuel rail and use its regulator and return line for a 1:1 system. if youre going to run the B model rail, you can put a T fitting in the pressure line and 1 end will go to the rail, and the other to an aftermarket regulator. ( either a 1:1 or 6:1)

Step 10. run your return line to the old factory outlet of the tank. this will have a nice metal post inside the tank and will return fuel away from the inlet of the pump. this is ideal. if you put a return too close, you risk having aerated fuel being sucked up by the pump when the tank is part full.
16467

16468
 
  • Like
Reactions: Habes 1206
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top