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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Simply put - is there such a thing as a hydraulic clutch conversion for the 12?

I ask as about the only thing I dont like about my 12 is the feeling of the clutch, it just feels so agricultural! Ive replaced levers, bushes and oiled cables and it all works well, just dont like the feel.

Apart from that I gave her a good spanking this morning, and she deserved it the dirty bitch....:rotflmao:
 

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Why would you want to do that? A cable is much better than a hydraulic clutch. You ever had a hydraulic clutch slave go out on you 100 miles from civilization? Good luck shifting the bike after that. You walkin. I've clutched my 12 many times with my foot! Lets see you do that with a hydraulic clutch....

Juss sayin....a cable, imo, is far more reliable than a hydraulic clutch. Plus, a hydraulic clutch is too "easy" to pull. There's no real motor feel in the lever...or so has been my experience.......
 

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There is a design problem money won't fix.

Long rod thru engine:

1. Punch a hole in the mainshaft so you can get a rod down to the back of the pressure plate.
2. Have a pressure plate made or find the same maker's pressure plate that uses a liquid lever. Maybe it will bolt up?
3. If you punched the freeze plug out of the mainshaft, that was part of the oil pressure stopper so the freewheelers on the shaft are lubed. Maybe you'll get away with the rod being there or seal that end up with a machined housing of $ome $ort?
4. Machine and weld a slave cylinder to the outer chain cover. You may have to remove the chain cover, copy the bolt pattern and then bolt on the slave cylinder for the rod needs to be pushed.
5. Run a hose up to the new liquid lever off some bike?

Rod on the pressure plate side:

A. Say the chain side or going thru the mainshaft that way is a PITA. Run the slave cylinder on the clutch cover.
B. Since the pressure plate can be pulled away with an arm coming off the top and out of the clutch housing, you'll need to find a way to design the pressure plate to be pulled instead.
C. Bring lots and lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!

OR????

You can lube the cable and adapt to the bike like a man, or $quid-ON Some Liquid $etup. Show us pics of the progress!
 

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Kill the engine. Look behind so no one rams you, and be ready with key on, kill back on. Hours off the engine. Less gas used. Your wrist will thank you too.
 

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Kill the engine. Look behind so no one rams you, and be ready with key on, kill back on. Hours off the engine. Less gas used. Your wrist will thank you too.
But you would shorten the life of the starter, no?

This is my fear with that new engine stop start features on some new cars. I would rather pay for the gas, than a starter.
 

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Many moons ago (25 years) a mate and myself fitted a hydraulic clutch actuator to his GSX750 that had the cable clutch (old air cooled motor) , it involved getting a clutch slave cylinder from an old Mini and grafting it onto the top of the crankases to operate the clutch arm. Today i would imagine it would be a lot simpler to do it as there is a greater availability of parts out there.

Kendo
 

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Jay,

Just click into neutral at lights...but in traffic, yep, it'll make your wrist nice and tough....:lol:
 

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This is my fear with that new engine stop start features on some new cars. I would rather pay for the gas, than a starter.
The brushes would outlast a start on average. Ever hear a well tuned computer bike start? Instant fire = Sequential.

The rollers are more my fear. But guess what? The metallurgy has leaped far away from the old heat treating that would gall the 1970's sort of thinking you are in, no?

The starter and roller system is 'this side of bulletproof' so I would not worry, being my #1 move at a stop light or any traffic that is not moving. The 14 is my example.
 

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But you would shorten the life of the starter, no?

This is my fear with that new engine stop start features on some new cars. I would rather pay for the gas, than a starter.
The cars/trucks with this design (autostop) dont use a normal starter or even have a starter as you would think of.
 

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What do they use? They are full combustible engines, so how do they turn it over with out a starter?
I know about the GM systems

BAS is an acronym for Belted Alternator Starter. It is a category of automotive parallel hybrid technology that utilizes an electric motor to contribute power to the internal combustion engine's crankshaft via a serpentine belt. By mounting this motor generator unit in the conventional location traditionally used for the standard automotive alternator, it permits a low-cost method of adding mild hybrid capabilities such as start-stop, power assist, and mild levels of regenerative braking. BAS differ from other mild hybrid systems as they are not run off the vehicle's crankshaft.

The two mode hybrids use the electric motors inside the transmission to start to the engine when needed.
 

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I saw a custom fabbed hydraulic conversion on a 12 from the UK. it was all done with a custom cover, not a shaft through the motor. I believe it was Keith/Lorcan Parnells machine
 
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It used some zx11 parts and custom made stuff IIRC Ken? "solved" the issue of breaking the puller with a lockup, but i believe the root of the problem was just way too much weight on the arms. I havent broken one yet, hopefully that trend continues...
 

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Just for reference, Magura hydraulic clutch conversions are available.
So long as the cable travel required is less than 16mm, I measured mine from fully out to touching bar, cable movement at clutch end was 13-14mm.
They can make up the line to required length.

Not specifically packaged for the 12 but click on the bit in the middle of the page that says DOCUMENT.
Magura Hymec Hydraulic Motorcycle Clutch Conversions | Venhill

Their slave cylinder design obviously removes the need to drill holes in your engine casing!
 
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