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Discussion Starter #1
Changed my front brake lines to new COBRA (HEL) steel braided ones.
I fucked up with the bleeding them yesterday 4 hours. Used almost all brake fluid out.
I mean I bleeded brake before on many bikes. Never had such fuck as now...
Wish me a luck today.
 

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i dont have any issues with bleeding the 6 pots and have to say i find them to work realy well on mine ,when i changed my front lines as part of the ABM kit i had no issues even then buddy .
have you tried reverse bleeding from the callipers ?also overnight leave a cable tie on front brake lever just putting pressure on the system this will help no end in the morning as should remove most small air locks in the system ,good luck mate if you lived near myself id of nipped round and done them for you
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i dont have any issues with bleeding the 6 pots and have to say i find them to work realy well on mine ,when i changed my front lines as part of the ABM kit i had no issues even then buddy .
have you tried reverse bleeding from the callipers ?also overnight leave a cable tie on front brake lever just putting pressure on the system this will help no end in the morning as should remove most small air locks in the system ,good luck mate if you lived near myself id of nipped round and done them for you
Thanks mate.
OK, I left the brake lever cable tied over night. What should I do now? Just release it slowly and it is done???
Or release it slowly and bleed both callipers again?
Or bleed the calipers with lever left cable tied?
I just try to cach the system of magic makes brakes working...
Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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Give the lines a tap so the bubbles travel up to the master cylinder. Open up the bleed nipple to get out any air in the caliper. Then start the bleed process again. You will get there in the end. Make sure though that all the brake union bolts are tight.
I did mine a few months ago and the master cylinder bolt was just a tiny bit loose and I couldn't get any lever pressure at all even though there was no air in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Give the lines a tap so the bubbles travel up to the master cylinder. Open up the bleed nipple to get out any air in the caliper. Then start the bleed process again. You will get there in the end. Make sure though that all the brake union bolts are tight.
I did mine a few months ago and the master cylinder bolt was just a tiny bit loose and I couldn't get any lever pressure at all even though there was no air in the system.
Doing all this brake lever must be cable tied or after I release it?
 

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When I did my front brake hose change, I used the standard easy bleed ( about £5.00 ) with the slit in the return tube and as the other half pumped away ( ooer missus ) I used a syringe to suck the fluid down into the other brake line because it is useless doing one line all that you are doing is compressing the air in the other line, they won't ( usually ) bleed....so, in other words, bleed both brake lines at the same time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Seems I made it. Not sure. Maybe I am getting paranoic. It stops when I move the bike. Must do a test drive. For a moment fairings are at paintshop. Will test brakes maybe next week. Rear brake was just peanuts - it took 3 minutes to bleed them out.
Mystery thing for me yet. Wat for brake lever left cable tied must be left over night? In 2004 I had Hayabusa with same 6 pot calipers - no problems I remember.
 

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It's the master cylinder that is the problem. I fitted a 19mm fire blade one on mine. It made all the difference. Lots of people go on about the R1 radial but that is still only 16mm.
I can pull my lever to the bar in the garage but out on the road you only need 2 fingers and she pulls up like you dropped out an anchor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I definitelly need a radial cylinder. Fireblade from 2008? Or earlier would be ok?
 

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It's the master cylinder that is the problem. I fitted a 19mm fire blade one on mine. It made all the difference. Lots of people go on about the R1 radial but that is still only 16mm.
I can pull my lever to the bar in the garage but out on the road you only need 2 fingers and she pulls up like you dropped out an anchor.
Nope :nana: Sorry but the problem is the 6 pots :thumbup:

You'll most likely find that one or more of the pistons is sticking and causing the issues :thumbup:

As has been proved on here many times, the 6 pots require quite a bit of TLC in order to keep them in tip top order :banghead:

I swapped to R1 radial calipers but haven't bothered to swap the MC because it just isn't required :thumbup:
 

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Nope :nana: Sorry but the problem is the 6 pots :thumbup:

You'll most likely find that one or more of the pistons is sticking and causing the issues :thumbup:

As has been proved on here many times, the 6 pots require quite a bit of TLC in order to keep them in tip top order :banghead:

I swapped to R1 radial calipers but haven't bothered to swap the MC because it just isn't required :thumbup:
I agree with Afkan.

The six pots are good but like most of the women in my life they are high maintenance!!

Could be worth stripping, cleaning and adding new seals and red grease

When bleeding them back up as stated cable tie the leaver to the bar overnight to help the air come out - I also use a big syringe attached to a pipe that then pulls the brake fluid through the bleed nipple on the caliper, I also bleed from the master cylinder too to ensure all the air is out.

An empty system is always going to take a little longer to bleed through.

Back to the brakes, the six pots are good but over time I found they lack feel and stopping power - I now run Brembo 4 pots, Brembo 18 master cylinder, Hell lines and braking discs - Much better
 

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Nope :nana: Sorry but the problem is the 6 pots :thumbup:

You'll most likely find that one or more of the pistons is sticking and causing the issues :thumbup:

As has been proved on here many times, the 6 pots require quite a bit of TLC in order to keep them in tip top order :banghead:

I swapped to R1 radial calipers but haven't bothered to swap the MC because it just isn't required :thumbup:
Sorry but you are wrong , its the MC when air rated that causes the problem !!
I got the same problem with my 05 and it needed to be vac bleed to fix the problem ! All this stuff about using a zip tie and clamping the brake lever over night tells you everything ! Kernowkid Is right ..
PS it happened when I changed my R1 mc , then put the oem back on !
 

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The angle on the handle bars with the MC causes the problem if run dry , as there on a 25 degree angle its very hard to get the air out without force !
 
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