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Discussion Starter #22
I contacted ZX Zone today and they want my core 1st to see if it qualifies for the swap. I'll probably have to wait until the weekend to send it. Regarding the clutch hub nut, I found some posts and it looks like it would've been easier to remove if the motor was still in the bike. I could've wedged the rear wheel like I did when I removed the front sprocket...now I'm going to have to order a clutch hub holder. It's ok, it's only $24 at Amazon.
 

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I'm going to go with the 1287 kit at the ZX Zone website KAWASAKI ZX PISTON KITS
I'm not finding any ZX12 stuff at Competition cnc's website...just ZX14 and Hayabusa parts. I don't minding spending up to $1K on a cylinder head/valves. I checked ebay and there's a couple on there. The one I'm interested in is this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2001-00-01-KAWASAKI-NINJA-ZX12R-ZX-12-ENGINE-CYLINDER-HEAD-T061/264315898509?hash=item3d8a748a8d:g:paoAAOSwizpc1CfV

Do I need to remove the clutch hub nut/washer to separate the cases? The manual recommends it. I can't stop that sucker from spinning. It looks like Kawasaki has a special clutch hub tool to hold it in place while you loosen the nut. I think I saw a couple threads on here about it. I'll check them out.
give cnc a call and talk to Jim Gilnack

the easy way to remove the clutch hub nut is to put a complete clutch pack in, push in on it with your hand, and rattle it off with an impact. i do it all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
give cnc a call and talk to Jim Gilnack

the easy way to remove the clutch hub nut is to put a complete clutch pack in, push in on it with your hand, and rattle it off with an impact. i do it all the time.
Thanks for the contact info for Jim...I'll reach out to him. I looked through my tools and found a clutch hub tool that I bought so long ago I forgot I had it, so I think I'm good as far as removing the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I got the crankcase split and got to look at the bearings. I removed the cylinder #1 connecting rod and the bearing actually looks ok. I didn't find any flakes from the bearings in the oil pan either so I'm thinking it's only a dropped valve. I'm posting some pictures...can you guys let me know what you think? Should I replace the connecting rod/crankshaft bearings since I'm in there? Do I need to get the crankshaft machined if I do so?
 

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Got my JE Piston/cylinder kit through ZX Zone too. I got my main bearings changed at the time of rebuild, as advised by the builder.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
If I get the crank polished do I need to get oversize bearings or can I continue to use stock size?
Never mind, I read through the manual and l have to plastigage to figure out bearing sizes. I haven't gone this deep into a motor since '98 when I rebuilt the motor on my old '78 KZ1000. I'm a little rusty on things. I put a 1397 kit in my 2000 'busa in '05 but I only had to dismantle it down to the cylinder block.
 

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If it's a simple polish you should be able to use standard bearings. However, micijg the crank and plastigauge is an excellent idea. Good luck.
 

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there are 3 sizes of "standard" so measure what you have. theres no 10 thou option for a heavy polish job
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Clutch basket is in bad shape too. There's notches worn into the sides where the tabs make contact with the basket. I sent that and the cylinder block to ZxZone over the weekend and it should arrive there tomorrow. The clutch had been making noise for several years but still shifted fine. The plates themselves looked ok but I ordered new springs/plates from Schnitz anyways.
 

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be careful who you get to polish it as theres no 10 thou bearing option. make sure they know min journal size.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Wanted to give an update.
I've put about 25 miles on the bike post-rebuild and so far, so good. I dealt with coolant leaks for a few weeks. 1st, the thermostat housing was leaking, then the upper radiator hose, then a couple freeze plugs, then the pipe that inserts into the water pump. I think I've got all those sorted out and now have to deal with some surging. Pretty sure it needs a throttle body sync as I was having a similar problem before the rebuild. I ended up replacing the connecting rod bearings/pistons/rings/gaskets as far as the motor goes. I also had my original head repaired and a valve job with new valve seals done at a local machine shop. I checked the crankshaft bearings and there was very little cosmetic wear and they were within spec so I didn't change those.

I also replaced the clutch discs, springs, and basket. It's much quieter now that I'm using a new basket. The clutch used to make loud rattling noises before due to the wear in the old basket and now I don't even hear it.

I didn't keep exact numbers but total cost was around $3500. I replaced a bunch of miscellaneous things too like brackets, thermostat, radiator cap, etc.

Now onto my ZX14 which is making an even louder knocking noise, but still sounds like top-end. It crapped out about 2 mos. before the 12 did and I haven't drive it since.
 
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