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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

Seeing that i am completely rewiring my 12, and thinking about the charging system issues that plague these poor bikes, i searched on here and around the net and found that people have successfully used FH mosfet regulators.

I am familiar with these because i systematically upgraded all my classic Suzukis over the years who also have stator and charge system overheating issues so I was pleasantly surprised to see that people have tested on their ninjas.

Question is : from what i have seen, people just take the 3 wires from the stator to the regulator, and then 2 leads direct to battery, thats exactly what i did on my suzukis but they are simple wiring 80s bikes.

The ZX12R has a second connector with earth leads and fat white + wires.

So.

Is is just a case of doing the stator + battery wires ?

How does that not affect the bike if a connector is no longer in the loop ?

Can this connector be removed and the wires cut down/off ?

I've got the wiring diagram but am not sure what to think

Cant see why the charging system wiring is so full and complex ?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I've spent some time on the wiring diagram this morning. From what i can see, there are 9 (goddamn, NINE) wires connected to the regulator.

3 from the stator, one small extra connecting to the junction fuse box

That is the basis, these are the feed.


On the other side.

There are 2 large + wires
1 small brown wire to the ignition switch
2 large earth cables

These all splice into the loom, correct me if I'm wrong but they are not the sole providers from what i can see.
 

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3 from the stator, one small extra connecting to the junction fuse box. This small one (changes colour to white) and goes to the fuse box, through a diode and trips the headlight relay on the positive swing of the ac voltage from the stator. Once the headlight relay is tripped, the headlight relay feeds round a DC voltage through another diode to hold itself on. Problems can arise if the stator wire diode goes short and feeds AC voltage onto the DC system. Headlights on when the engine is running is a requirement in some countries, so this is automated for the forgetful.

That is the basis, these are the feed.


On the other side.

There are 2 large + wires These are for charging the battery and feeding the electrical system and needs 2 wires because 1 is just not enough.
1 small brown wire to the ignition switch This brown wire monitors the voltage on the switched-on electrical system, so if the electrical load increases this voltage drops slightly which then tells the regulator to increase its power output.
2 large earth cables These 2 are again because 1 wire is just not enough.

These all splice into the loom, correct me if I'm wrong but they are not the sole providers from what I can see.
The extra wires are because of the twin headlights, if they were on dipped and you hit the flash/pass button both dip and main come on together and this causes to much of a power drain through only 1 wire.

The stator output wires are crimped in the stator, (they should have been crimped and soldered) this allows engine oil to wick up the stator wires to the regulator plug causing poor connections, the regulator would try its best to feed power to the bike and try to pull more power from the stator which in turn melted the plug. Later zx12's B3 onwards have separate plugs for each stator wire, instead of the 3 into one plug, this helps a bit, as at least they won't short out to the other wires and can dissipate heat more easily.

A bit long-winded but at least you know why now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That does make sense. Obviously viewing the diameter of the wires it is clear that they are there for V load.

I have seen a couple of examples where a modern FH yamaha type reg is used but would like to know how/if this is possible, is it the case of the modern Reg being able to handle more amps/resistance ?

I find it hard to believe that the 12 has such a fragile/weak system (not mentioning the oil issue) if indeed it needs such a massive system to work ?
 

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It probably does not help that the battery in these bikes is tucked away in the frame behind the engine, which I'm sure the batteries don't like on hot days.
As for using a different type of regulator I don't know as I've never had to change one, actually that's a lie I swapped in a CBR500 one onto a blackbird for a friend, same plugs but better cooling as it had fins.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yep the 12 is kind a hot bike with the layout and fairings.

Regarding your comment about the wires, i have now peeled the wrap off the loom.

I see that the 4 fat wires (white and black) from the output of the regulator both merge into 1 fat wire each after about a foot length.

Both the resulting wires are the same gauge as the wires coming from the regulator.

So in all logic I am assuming that one wire of each is enough in terms of voltage flow ?

Of course since I have no idea what I am doing, I have no technical analytical approach, only a down to earth look on things.
 

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I thought the white wire in the loom was thicker, but I could be thinking about zx9 C's, I would imagine then it's to reduce the chance of melting the plug through poor contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so if i pull an identical cable to the battery earth to ground the system, and feed a Yamaha FH mosfet regulator direct to the battery via large gauge cables I should be fine
 

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I have a Shindengen (Japanese) MOSFET reg/rec, the autoelectrician wired directly from the reg to the battery as he said they recommend this to reduce number of connections and thus chances of problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is good news. So the output connector for the OE regulator is just left disconnected ?

Thanks
 

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why dont you connect to the existing wires instead of running duplicates??
 

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I'm having issues with my 01 zx12 stator and regulator, my bike fries the regulator and soon as I ride it. 3 stater and reg's , no help. The last stator was ok, but the regulator was toast. How do you wire in a mosfet reg?
 

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@color me gone
Transistors use a trickle current to diolate a doped region and allow main current to flow.
BJT : Bi-polar Junction Transistor.
Like an energetic dance, warm up an stretch allows use of play. Sort off.

I can't remember mosfet, maybe they're potential command units.. Yet they do pretty much the same job but are capable of higher power and probably more efficient.
Hoping that helps. I almost had a double degree with Electrical and Electronic engineering but decided to walk away. I used to drive army trucks and ride my KR1S to work. Now driving continental food supply trucks and building 2 12s. 😊
Wanna read true BS. Having gone to an Australian research centre to write voice recognition software on a grant to help complete 2 degrees I didn't want to break law. I was asked to move to a non-smoking portion of land to finish my cigarette such that smoke didn't enter security building. So I told security if her fat arse hadn't walked past automatic doors, they wouldn't have opened, she could go back inside and the doors won't reopen if she didn't walk past them hence I could legally complete my smoke. My grant was cancelled.
1 happy loser.
Pretty sure mosfet much better.

I have issues too but never changed the battery. Bike bought with a high current gel cell. Load of crap. Like turboing a shopping car and expecting a naturally aspirated Ferrari performance.
Gell cell. Low current apps.
Acid lead. Does ok. High portion recyclable.
Lithium Ion. High current and light weight. Hope recycling improves.
 

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If it works, don't fix it.
I ain't changing mine on green bike. Stock with slip on and pc3 or 5. I only rode once. 20 km traffic ride. Stalled at lights at least 5 times. Started easy.
My black bike I might change. When gold if stalled I had to sit 20 minutes. Never bothered to figure, wrote off as combination of factors.. Higher compression pistons, Gel cel battery (that one a big one.. Don't get sucked in to high current sales gimmicks. Capacity of gel cells reduces dramatically with high current draws yet this is just my opinion). Electrics were cut and moved around by theifs hence why I'm interested in charging system upgrade.
Charger worked alright before. I preferred usage of bike as weekend roller which was 100-200km rides. Gel cell had plenty of time to recharge.
 

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@color me gone

I sat stocky 2 weeks without charger after a 20km ride of about 7 traffic light stalls. She has a leaking fuel tank, non adjustable levers than need adjusting and an external charging system that needs installation but fired up easily having sat 2 weeks on a multiple start short ride.
I doubt anything wrong with a stock system yet how many 12s are stock?
Other 12 has higher compression and an electrical system that is butchered.
I'll be asking questions here but with her past refusals to start including a fork lift pushing her gearrack at 20kmph. She started after about 1km. (trying to combine revs and traction, 😂) a missing battery box, maybe mosfet and 24v would treat her beat to ride street. Weight doesn't bother me. Getting those ponies a start does.
I know I'm cheap. I'll be upgrading battery to decent high current material first such as lead acid or lithium-ion. If that fails although I doubt such will; 24 v bang it.

I'm derro moments aye. She'd lift at 180 out of sweeper with suspension energy translating from kinetics to potential (with battery in normal spot next to engine) yet arse end was cut up to place a battery behind seat.
I don't know what theifs were thinking but I know bike and I seen crappy battery behind seat. Probably sick of jump starting her.
Now on a stocky, I'm happy with charger. Must have been battery issue.
I'd stick with a documented system though. If mosfet way I'd probably self document and go 24v with a 12-24v step-up jump start connection in tail.
I just enjoying a nice street bike too and 12s are lovely
Boats
 

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