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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased the bike a few weeks ago. Opened the ingnition cover and found I have a Muzzy ignition advancer rotor on my bike.
Question is HOW TO SET this thing up, please? :)

I mean there I see 5 marks on a rotor. Where is 0 degree and were is a max degree? I suppose 1 mark is a 5 degree? If it is right so timing acc my picture is set up on max (setting up clockwise), so 20 degree???? I'm a bit confused.
Any help or useful link would be very appreciated.
 

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i havent used one of these, but i believe the middle is factory timing
 

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1. Pull spark plug #1.
2. Find a long enough chopstick to drop down the plug hole.
3. Hold stick because the stick needs to be at a 90 degree or it will kink coming up.
4. If say it lands on the 2-3 T mark, that (|) mark, it does not matter.
5. Loosen the screws.
6. The stick is going to come up to TDC and drop down. You have to find that mid-point of it coming up and hanging at TDC before it drops down. So without using a dial indicator, pulling the head off and finding TDC with a degree wheel and a positive stop system, you are going to ballpark the ignition to 0 degrees, or where that (|) should line up with the horizon of the case split.
7. Now that you are at TDC, you moved the tone wheel to use the (|) mark as your guide, you now look at the round magnetic dowel sticking out of the crank sensor. You now think 'leading edge-trailing edge' of the tone wheel tooth.
8. Use the arrow as your lead/trail. So the trick is, your tooth's edge that first lines up to the edge of that magnetic tip has to line up from edge to edge = Not in the middle is the tooth over the pin, but the first edge of the tooth to the edge of the round tip = Leading edge.
9. One more time. 3 stationary marks are leading-middle-trailing. Use the lead side to line up the tone wheel @ TDC = You now set the stock timing oh so close.

Note: It's all about balance waves within waves.
A. The crank makes 1 long square wave. The cam sensor makes 2 waves within the 1 larger wave.
B. By lining up the leading edges, this puts the waves in the middle of each other. You move that tone wheel in so many degrees, the longer wave leaves the 2 shorter square waves: out of each others square say. It's like saying you have a single box on the floor. You have two boxes that fit square over the single box, all is square looking down at the boxes.
C. Now shove both boxes to one side so one box is hanging over the edge of the bottom box. See how those square waves are moving in a leading and/or a trailing kind of edging?
Do. YOU see how out of sync the advancer can be, we are taking a guess at TDC and our leading edge lineup? To make the advance perfect, the cam's pin should be moved in proportion to the crank's wave move is the BALANCE or you are on the raggedge of...


... LIMP :rotflmao:
Wouldn't it be easier for someone that knows about the Muzzy ignition advancer to tell the OP which is the zero advance setting and how many degrees each line indicates ? :headscratch:
 

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just call muzzys lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Most funny thing is Muzzy sell them and no fucking description online available. I already 2nd evening sleep here on web trying to find some info on this little thing and no info at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Homhe does not need to phone Muzzy. Everything has a formula. Set a paper plate degree wheel in place with the 3 screws and cutout the widows for the bolt, degrees, etc. You already made copy of a degree wheel, taped it on the plate, see the setup? Chopstick in hand and here goes closenough. Use the case half as the degree pointer. How many degrees did it look like to you? 5?

5 degree increments.

Advance = Engine rotation you hit the first increment, the spark is going to hit the piston [which is] lower in the bore [almost] firing backwards, think. Start the flame too soon, no power past TDC. You want it to keep burning: to push the piston After TDC. Before it, you burn out the flame Before TDC.

Retard = The deeper in increments you go, the more she starts to boil the gas not burn it ~ Overheating issuesandshit. Not enough flame front time to burn all or most of the flame front. The beginning front just boiled the other half of the gas [think] that is about to be expelled all rich out the pipe.

Signed,

NOLTTThe Loopholer
Probably if we count on middle line is "0" I'll try Your method. Will post a result after.
Thanks.
 

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they come with instructions, contact them... not everyone posts installation instructions on their site.
 

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It just so happens that I have the original muzzy timing advance pdf. It states

0 degrees middle (stock) each line represents 5 degrees advance or retard from 0. If you send me a pm with email I will email it to you.

Arrow rotation is advance, against the arrow is retard

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It just so happens that I have the original muzzy timing advance pdf. It states

0 degrees middle (stock) each line represents 5 degrees advance or retard from 0. If you send me a pm with email I will email it to you.

Arrow rotation is advance, against the arrow is retard

Lou
Thanks Mate!
PM sent with my email.
 

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1. Pull spark plug #1.
2. Find a long enough chopstick to drop down the plug hole.
3. Hold stick because the stick needs to be at a 90 degree or it will kink coming up.
4. If say it lands on the 2-3 T mark, that (|) mark, it does not matter.
5. Loosen the screws.
6. The stick is going to come up to TDC and drop down. You have to find that mid-point of it coming up and hanging at TDC before it drops down. So without using a dial indicator, pulling the head off and finding TDC with a degree wheel and a positive stop system, you are going to ballpark the ignition to 0 degrees, or where that (|) should line up with the horizon of the case split.
7. Now that you are at TDC, you moved the tone wheel to use the (|) mark as your guide, you now look at the round magnetic dowel sticking out of the crank sensor. You now think 'leading edge-trailing edge' of the tone wheel tooth.
8. Use the arrow as your lead/trail. So the trick is, your tooth's edge that first lines up to the edge of that magnetic tip has to line up from edge to edge = Not in the middle is the tooth over the pin, but the first edge of the tooth to the edge of the round tip = Leading edge.
9. One more time. 3 stationary marks are leading-middle-trailing. Use the lead side to line up the tone wheel @ TDC = You now set the stock timing oh so close.

Note: It's all about balance waves within waves.
A. The crank makes 1 long square wave. The cam sensor makes 2 waves within the 1 larger wave.
B. By lining up the leading edges, this puts the waves in the middle of each other. You move that tone wheel in so many degrees, the longer wave leaves the 2 shorter square waves: out of each others square say. It's like saying you have a single box on the floor. You have two boxes that fit square over the single box, all is square looking down at the boxes.
C. Now shove both boxes to one side so one box is hanging over the edge of the bottom box. See how those square waves are moving in a leading and/or a trailing kind of edging?
Do. YOU see how out of sync the advancer can be, we are taking a guess at TDC and our leading edge lineup? To make the advance perfect, the cam's pin should be moved in proportion to the crank's wave move is the BALANCE or you are on the raggedge of...


... LIMP :rotflmao:
Homhe does not need to phone Muzzy. Everything has a formula. Set a paper plate degree wheel in place with the 3 screws and cutout the widows for the bolt, degrees, etc. You already made copy of a degree wheel, taped it on the plate, see the setup? Chopstick in hand and here goes closenough. Use the case half as the degree pointer. How many degrees did it look like to you? 5?

5 degree increments.

Advance = Engine rotation you hit the first increment, the spark is going to hit the piston [which is] lower in the bore [almost] firing backwards, think. Start the flame too soon, no power past TDC. You want it to keep burning: to push the piston After TDC. Before it, you burn out the flame Before TDC.

Retard = The deeper in increments you go, the more she starts to boil the gas not burn it ~ Overheating issuesandshit. Not enough flame front time to burn all or most of the flame front. The beginning front just boiled the other half of the gas [think] that is about to be expelled all rich out the pipe.

Signed,

NOLTTThe Loopholer
YW.

Roll up a paper towel so if a screw drops, on the roll it goes and out on the floor, not in the engine. Use the right side of the engine so the case spit is still visible depending on the paper plate and shrinkage of some degree wheel scanned off the net.

Wouldn't you rather follow these instructions instead ? :crazyloco:
 

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The advancer only fits one way. Its keyed so you can't really screw it up. The only precaution is to set the screws with red locktite once it is fitted to prevent them from losing up. I've changed the setting several times when i was tuning and never had a problem. Currently it is set at 2.5 degrees advanced and tuned for 40shot of nos with the pc3. Great setup, runs very strong, to bad last year i only rode it like 200 miles.

Lou
 

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Honestly hubz i cant even read anything you right anymore at first it was funny then annoying now its just plain stupid and really shows what an ASSHOLE You really are.
most of the time your just looking for an argument and yes most times you get one so preach to yourself from now on. into the ignore list you go and anyone else please don't quote him as i really have no want to even see his name on this forum if it was up to me he would have been at band camp along time ago maybe i should post up a petition to have him banned i bet the votes would be a landslide!!!
 

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Honestly hubz i cant...

I can't stand someone is going to change how I present the type. I'm not going to bow to your crying waaaaaaaa, politics is up YOURS! Just use the ignore button is why it's there for your diaper change. Grow some balls and 'tolerate others' or get off the net.

Help the OP and concentrate on the very first post. I could care less how many already posted what they think they should post.

This is way over your head, this should all sink it, but it's way to complex and too simple at the same time.

Whatever you need to do to boil the witch, burn the odd ones at the stake, run them out of town, you go right ahead you runner upper fucking clown. :rotflmao:
 

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Thank God for your post slykittycat, I've found the ignore list at last and put that idiot onto it :mfclap:

Never again will I have to read his Drivel, and rest assured I won't quote him again.

Bye Hubz :nana:
 
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