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Discussion Starter #1
I've got an 02 ZX12R A1 (2000/01 model) and I'm having a massive over fuelling problem. It been down the shop for 2 months now and we can not get it to run properly.

So far we have changed the entire throttle body, fuel pump, MAP sensor can position sensor and the TPS but the thing still will not run properly.

We know the engine itself is ok as we have done a compression test and everything came back ok and even, the coils have been tested with the spark plugs as well so everything is good there.

We have managed to make it run by disconnecting the pipe on the MAP sensor so it measures to atmosphere, choke on and the TPS round as far anti clockwise as it would go while still screwed in. It ran rich as hell but all 4 pots ran (proving the engine I guess) and you could rev it up but give it too much throttle too quick and it dies. Also, no matter where the TPS was, still ridiculously rich. Like so rich you can taste it. When its running, if you put the tube back on the MAP sensor it cuts out.

It's clear it's running way too much fuel and strangling itself but we cannot figure out why. Do I need to buy a new ECU for this bad boy or have I missed something?

P.S. all replacement parts were brand new kawasaki except the throttle body which came off another working bike. There are no aftermarket parts on this except some cosmetics and a scorpion exhaust (apparently made for this exact bike but the fault originally occurred with the stock exhaust on it anyway, all the unburnt fuel went down the exhaust and blew it up as well as melting some cowling hence the new one). Sorry for the long post but I really need help!
 

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I will get the ball rolling. Lol

Is the FI code light on?

Are the air cleaners dirty?

If you raise the tank, there is a air temp sensor in
the right side inspection cover. This can fail and cause a very rich condition.


Is the engine running on all 4 cylinders?

Does it run rich when it’s cold?

cmg
 

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I would replace the ecu of you can find one. You said an 2002 model, then you say it's an A1, which is a 2000 model. Which is it? The ecus are not compatible between those years. Let us know.
 

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Have you got the TPS plug and inlet air pressure plugs the wrong way round? this is easily done by accident because there so close to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will get the ball rolling. Lol

Is the FI code light on?

Are the air cleaners dirty?

If you raise the tank, there is a air temp sensor in
the right side inspection cover. This can fail and cause a very rich condition.


Is the engine running on all 4 cylinders?

Does it run rich when it’s cold?

cmg
Thanks for replying!

Fl code light is not on u less we force a fault by unplugging a sensor or something. So we know it works too.

Air cleaners are good, and the temp sensor has been swapped with another to check and it was fine.

IF we get the engine to go (very rare and difficult to do) it runs on all 4 cylinders but extremely rich, and we can not run it long enough to get heat in there anyway so yes, rich when cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would replace the ecu of you can find one. You said an 2002 model, then you say it's an A1, which is a 2000 model. Which is it? The ecus are not compatible between those years. Let us know.
The bike is an 02 reg but an A1 2000 model. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have you got the TPS plug and inlet air pressure plugs the wrong way round? this is easily done by accident because there so close to each other.
This is definitely a possibility as long as the TPS is a 3 pin plug. I cant check it right now as it's still in the garage and my mechanic is away this weekend but I do know for sure that the MAP sensor plug is 3 pins.

Can anyone confirm for sure how many pins the TPS has?
 

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This is definitely a possibility as long as the TPS is a 3 pin plug. I cant check it right now as it's still in the garage and my mechanic is away this weekend but I do know for sure that the MAP sensor plug is 3 pins.

Can anyone confirm for sure how many pins the TPS has?
Yes tps has 3 pin
 

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Not sure if it's the same for all models but the plug for the air sensor is grey and the plug for the TPS is black on my bike. (Yellow/white, blue/white and brown/black wires)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I think you guys have just saved me £150. It looks like the plugs were the wrong way round, my mechanic has swapped them and it starts every time now. It's still a bit rough, probably down to TPS being in the wrong place right now.

I'll keep let you know for sure some time in the week but thank you so much for all your help!
 

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Good to hear it was an easy fix.
Here are a couple of guides on how to set the TPS, I've not used either as I have an adaptor cable.

Setting the TPS
#25 Tamper Proof Torx bit (with center hole) needed.

There are 2 ways to adjust the TPS.
The first way is dynamically with the bike running.
Adjusting the TPS this way you don't need a digital voltmeter.
Each bike is slightly different and this may be a way to adjust for those differences without relying on a set voltage or movement amount.

1- Warm-up bike until the fan is starting to cycle, engine hot.
2- Loosen TPS adjustment screws.
3- Raise idle to 2000 rpm with the idle adjustment screw.
4- Move TPS until the highest idle speed above 2000 rpm is achieved.
5-Tighten down screws and readjust idle to 1000 rpm.


The second way is using a digital voltmeter. With a plug in adaptor, or
1)Take two 2" pieces of a strong THIN wire(I use .020 stainless safety wire) and back probe the terminals on the TPS connector. Slide the thin probe wire between the rubber seal and the TPS wire. This will not damage the wires or connectors at all. Go across the Yellow/White and Brown/Black wires with a DIGITAL volt ohm meter, set to DC volts.
2)Turn the ignition on and tap the TPS with your finger CCW till it gets to the desired reading of 1.16 Vdc. Don't ever use an analog voltmeter when dealing with any computerized cars bikes whatever. (analog meters are the ones with a sweeping needle indicator)
You can always return the TPS to the stock 1.084vdc - 1.086vdc setting if the change is not an improvement in drivability.
 

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That the bike runs rough can be due the airsensor, it's likely busted now because you swapped the connectors around. Once you replace that it should run better. You can take out the air sensor under the buddy seat to replace it with, if it runs better you'll know you need a new airsensor for sure. After checking that adjust the TPS accordingly.

I made the same mistake too and found an used airsensor for like $8 online instead of a new OEM for xx the amount which worked perfect.

A few weeks back I adjusted my TPS with the instructions Yorkie posted, it was very easy to set it to 1,16v and it runs great after. I'd recommend trying that first and then the manual adjusting. Because if you know it runs well on 1,16v it's super easy to revert it back to that if the manual adjusting doesn't run the bike well.
 

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One thing I can tell you is it does not idle off the tps and it doesn't drive off the tps until it sense a specific load then if switches to the tps and rpm maps. It is great that it may be fixed but I don't think you messed anything up by plugging in the wrong one. The tps and the iap are 5 vdc. My bike was acting up a long time ago to the point I took the cell phone and went for brake it or throw a dam code. It ended up being the atmosphere sensor in the tail.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all your responses guys, I thought I would give you an update.

So swapping the plugs didn't fix it after all, it seemed like it would start better but it would still run wayyyy too much fuel.

The mechanic has now basically given up (or I gave up on him either/or) and I've got it back. I've now got the service manual with a wiring diagram and belled out the cables, and for future reference everyone the TPS plug is black and the MAP sensor plug is grey.

After testing and swapping the plugs I then had a fault lamp, which after the self test turned out to be the new MAP sensor. It seems like swapping the plugs may have damaged the sensor, even though logically it shouldn't have.

I then set the TPS and idle to something sensible following the manual (dont know for sure until it runs properly but somewhere in the ballpark is fine for now) and tried to start with no luck at all. The trouble shooting guide in the manual currently suggests either the ECU or the water temp sensor. The water sensor being 15 quid compare to 150 for an ECU I'm gonna change that first and see how we go.

On a side note, I've had to replace basically the entire tail end, cowling, tail light and indicators and I've put in an integrated LED tail light with indicators. When testing, the indicators flash rapidly as they would if one was out and it's probably because the new ones are LED. At the moment I have wired then old ones in in parallel under the seat to get over it but is there a better way to do this? Perhaps a resistor between the supply for the indicator and the ground?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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This is classic ECU symptoms. I saw one on eBay for 130 I believe. You will want to get that fixed and change the oil asap. It is probably more fuel than oil.
 

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If you had the map sensor and tps switched that map sensor is now bad for sure. I have done this once before, its very easy to mix them up. Have you replaced with a known good one since swapping the plugs? This is most likely your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you had the map sensor and tps switched that map sensor is now bad for sure. I have done this once before, its very easy to mix them up. Have you replaced with a known good one since swapping the plugs? This is most likely your problem.
Yeah I have and it's still the same just without the fault lamp. The new water sensor is due to arrive in a couple of days so I'll fit that just to see but I might have to take the plunge with the ECU but the sounds of things.
 

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I just don't see how the water temp sensor has any influence on the fuel intake?
Typically when an efi vehicle is cold, the ecu dumps more fuel in.. etc
 
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