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Didn't think a 12 would with having a manual choke lever compared to say a 14 which has it built in.
Its not a choke lever, it's a fast idle lever.
 

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Its not a choke lever, it's a fast idle lever.
Ah, yes of course. Now makes sense that it could potentially be the water sensor. Had a look in the service manual under DFI and it shows up under a fault code. Good to know!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I've replaced the ECU now and still getting the same thing.

I've decided to test every sensor and cable now and see where that leaves me, including the water temp sensor which turned out to be fine.

I'm really at a loss here, does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm about to test the vehicle down sensor and I'm struggling to find it. Has anyone changed this before?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok so I went to test the fuel pump flow rate at the same time as making sure that the fuel lines weren't blocked so I basically disconnected the return hose from the tank, pointed it into a container then turned on the ignition. Manual says that I should expect 83ml or more from the fuel pump prime (3 secs). I turned the key like 10 tine but I didn't get any thing at all. To make sure the pump was ok I decided to do it directly from the pump outlet nozzle and got like 115 ml so the pump is fine.

Is there any reason why I might not get the fuel all the way through the injector rail and back down the return pipe under normal circumstances or should have got it?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok so more progress!!

With everything where it should be, it doesnt go, BUT... If I disconnect the tube for the MAP sensor, it starts and revs up running very rich, bogging down when you open the throttle (if you're gentle then it can happily rev up) backfiring and all sorts. If I have it running and reconnect the tube it dies.

Any ideas anyone? A weird one for sure.

Side note, i have actually continuity tested pretty much every single cable to every single item on this bike, everything goes to where it should and all sensors tested give the correct voltage/resistance according to the manual, including TPS, intake pressure sensor, crankshaft, Cam, atmosphere, water temp, injectors, coils, fuel pump and relay, and intake air temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
FIXED IT!

So it turns out that the fuel strainer was split. That meant that the back pressure generated by the injector rail/pressure regulator forced the fuel out through the split back into the tank.

When you remove the tube for the MAP sensor the pump ramps all the way down to a point where the split can hold it in, meaning theres just about enough fuel for the injectors, and the engine can run.

Thanks for all the help guys, I could not have fixed this without your help and suggestions! It's a shame I've missed all if summer!
 

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WoW... nice find, never heard of that before. Glad to hear you've now got it sorted though.:smile2:
 
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