Kawasaki World banner

21 - 40 of 100 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Had also look at that companies fairings and saw some really nice ones. When you say brittle is the oem not sturdier/ thicker then the after market? My fairings are still very well in tact and if I had another set would not hesitate to paint it.
Cheers!

What I ment with "brittle" was/is that the OEM fairings on my bike the plastic has become brittle, probably because of UV light and well just because the plastic is old. Kinda like "dried out". And once an old fairing get a crack in it, no matter how many times you plastic weld or use super glue to fix it, it will keep cracking, probably not in the same spot, but close to it. Think this probably has allot to do with the environment the fairing has been exposed to, like leaving the bike to stand out side in cold/wet weather then baked in warm sunlight, etc..

My bike is an import from the UK, probably been outside in cold and rain, then in sunlight. And once it moved up North to Sweden it again was probably not kept in a garage with steady temperature. That is my theory of why the fairings crack so easy on my bike, though I have no scientific data to back up this claim of why... Also I guess the previous owners might have handled the fairings with no care when taking them off and putting them back on...

The OEM fairings are definitely thicker than the aftermarket ones.

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Short update...

The swing arm paint and service job is done. Fresh paint and new bearings.. I invested in a Bearing Puller Kit. Always wanted one and with the change of bearings in the swing arm, I figured it was time to invest in one. Made the job so easy.. Puller kit is a JMP # 722 03 53. This is JMP's "large" puller kit that comes with the bridge puller.

Last job to do at the rear end of the bike was a service on the rear brake cylinder and at the same time it was off, cleaned the road grit of it. I also changed out the rear brake light switch to a hydraulic one, the stock one did not work with the Gilles rearsets. I cut the stock rear brake switch wires and soldered the wires to the new hydraulic switch wires, this way I could keep the stock wire connector.

Next I'll start to work on the front end of the bike. The "to do" list is not that long but it will probably take some time. Going to paint the lower fork legs black, change out the rusted exhaust manifold studs/nuts to fresh ones (bet that is going to be a fun job), check the valve clearances and some other minor maintenance...

I also bought a HealTech SpeedoHealer that I need to wire.

I am still debating and arguing with myself if I should spend the money on some OZ wheels or do the sensible adult choice and just bead blast and paint the OEM wheels....

Thanks for the interest :grin2:

/Tom >:)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Rear sets look good in the gloss. Swingarm is gloss too?

cmg
Cheers :grin2:

The paint ended up being more towards a matt black finish even though on the paint can it says Satin Black.. The swing arm and frame do look very similar in color, so I would say they are both more Satin Black, not to matt and not to gloss either - if that makes any sense?

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Spent a couple of hours in the garage taking the front end of the bike apart so I can begin crossing out things on my "service and upgrades" list..

The thing I most had dread about was to unbolt the manifold pipes, the studs and nuts were covered in dirt and rust. Took my time and sprayed the studs/nuts with rust remover and WD40, used a wire brush to get all the gunk off, then even more rust remover spray and WD40. I am amazed to say that the exhaust studs came loose with out me saying one single swear word during the whole process...

After pipes I started to take stuff apart so I can get to the valve cover and later check the valve clearances and a change of spark plugs.. Before I begin that project I need to clean the the front of the engine case and valve cover, they are covered in oil and road grime... The Clean Air stuff is still hooked up, probably one of the last ZX12R that still has it. Also the rubber cover is still in place over the valve cover and that none of the previous owners had cracked the plastic cover that also sit on top of the valve cover...

I am gonna clean the engine and everything before I start to open it up, I hate working on dirty stuff. And once given a good clean it's nicer in the future if I need to dive back in...

I also have some paint work to do, fix the front brake master cylinder and some other stuff before the bike is ready for the road again.. I'll post more as stuff gets done...

/Tom >:)

(I also like how a ZX12R looks with out the fairings, I am playing with the idea of converting it to a naked bike one of these days....)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Are you going to delete the kleen system?
cmg
To be honest I have not made up my mind yet about that. It does not bother me that its there and I do not mind the exhaust "popping" when I let off the throttle, childish I know, but I do like the sound of the exhaust "pops"... so at the moment I think I'll leave it as is... If I would buy a complete exhaust system, then I would take the Kleen Air system off, but at the moment I only run a Yoshi end can, so... I have checked out a full system made by a German company (Cobra). If I went the full system route, I would also have to spend money on a DynoJet PC and dyno time to set up the engine right... But for the time I'll just live with the exhaust "pops" and rather spend money on a set of OZ Piega wheels instead... The full exhaust system and DynoJet PC may come later on...

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Update...

Fairings are fitted as good as possible. Took allot of time and patience, but I am quite happy with how it turned out. I am still waiting for the postman to deliver the decals and some other stuff, so can't do much more right now... other than enjoy a cold beer for a job done great....

I do have a plan and "picture" in my head how my bike will look once it's all done, but I'm not gonna tell you, you'll just have to come back and check this thread if you wan't to know :grin2: I will do some service at the same time I take the bike apart...

/Tom >:)
Awesome, good luck with the final outcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Spent a couple of hours in the garage again. Cleaned the engine then took off the valve cover and spent some time measuring the valve clearances...

The clearances were ok for the most part BUT I found two intake valve gaps and one exhaust valve gap to be to tight..

Here are the numbers...

Cyl #1 Exh. 0,29 / 0,25 Int. 0,18 / 0,12
Cyl #2 Exh. 0,27 / 0,27 Int. 0,12 / 0,20
Cyl #3 Exh. 0,25 / 0,24 Int. 0,18 / 0,18
Cyl #4 Exh. 0,25 / 0,21 Int. 0,20 / 0,20

So looks like I'll need to buy a set of valve shims...

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,462 Posts
Those to inlet 12s look odd, are you sure you didn't have an extra feeler gauge blade stuck in there?:|
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Those to inlet 12s look odd, are you sure you didn't have an extra feeler gauge blade stuck in there?:|
I measured those two valves several times, even tried different combinations of feeler gauge blades to get the measurement. I am not shore what is going on with those two valves? Thing is, engine runs good, no weird sounds or anything that would have made me worry before I took it apart. I will recheck all the measurements again tomorrow...

This is just me thinking out loud. When I bought the bike, the seller said (even got it printed on paper) they had done a valve check and a bunch of other service stuff before putting the bike out for sale. I wonder if the mechanic messed up something while doing the valve check and that is the reason for the two really out of spec measurements I got... Or somethings going on with the valve train that I need to investigate more closely... Or I just messed up those two measurements, though I do not know how I would have managed that because I did the measurement several times...

Thanks! :grin2:

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,462 Posts
Go for the previous owner messing up on his measurements:grin2: .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Go for the previous owner messing up on his measurements:grin2: .
You are correct Sir! :wink2: -Naah, as I wrote in my earlier post, I will check again because it is so off.. Kinda hope it was me messing up the measurement, if not, I will have to start investigating and once more something that was supposed to be a simple project....

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,462 Posts
I would imagine the last person just added instead of subtracting 5, easily done if distracted, I've done it myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Another update...

I would imagine the last person just added instead of subtracting 5, easily done if distracted, I've done it myself.
-You are correct Sir! The mechanic at the bike dealership put in thicker shims than was necessary, probably got distracted or had a brain fart...

Any way, I took all the valve buckets and shims out today. -True, I did not have to but I wanted to measure every shim so I have everything on paper for future reference. There are only three shims that really need to be changed out BUT I was thinking - Is it better to change out most of the shims towards the looser, because I have everything is apart right now, than having to redo this again next winter?

I can order/buy 9.48mm shims in 0.025 in/de-creasements here from a local shop.

I also made a note that using a slide caliper is not the best tool for the job measuring the valve shims, well it can be, but you do need to check that the slide caliper is not off like mine was/is. A micrometer is a better tool for measuring shim thickness, this assuming that it does show the correct measurement..

/Tom >:)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,462 Posts
Loads of access there. :| I never stripped the radiator off mine, though it did make the number 5or6 exhaust gap hard to get into.

I've done loads of shims on the zx9 and what I noticed was the exhaust clearances close about 4 times quicker than the inlets, so I always left the inlets on the low side so they opened sooner and put the exhaust high so they hold onto the power stroke for longer. Try to make pair of valves the same if you can, it seems to make the engine smoother.

I have noticed that the zx-12r does not need checking as much as the zx-9r, probably because you don't have to work the engine as much so the clearances don't close as quickly. :smile2: I suppose it depends on how hard you are going to be working the engine and if you have somewhere where you're up in the big 3 digit mph zone for long periods of time. :grin2: Lucky you if you can, but I suspect petrol stations will become the main concern.

Handy having a shim supplier nearby. I had loads of zx9 shims so thought I'd have the shims sorted till I lifted the first bucket off the 12, and noticed they were 9.48 and not the 7.48 like on the zx9. :frown2:

Good luck with it.:smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Loads of access there. :smile2:
-Yeah, I really went in deep, I know.. But I plan on taking off the throttle bodies for a clean at the same time, now that everything is apart and I have good access to everything. No one has done a a really good clean for a long time on my bike and that makes me have some serious OCD issues :grin2:

/Tom >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
So if I have got everything correct then this shim setup should give around 0.30mm on the Exhaust side and around 0.20mm on the Intake side - Correct :nerd:

Thanks!

/Tom >:)
 

Attachments

21 - 40 of 100 Posts
Top