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So if I have got everything correct then this shim setup should give around 0.30mm on the Exhaust side and around 0.20mm on the Intake side - Correct :nerd:

Thanks!

/Tom >:)
Hi there,

This may be of some help to you.

If you have Microsoft Excel, or an Excel type program, there is a file here that will do the calculations for you.


https://www.zx12r.co.uk/Website - Green/Pages.htm/The Kawasaki ZX-12R Blitz's Valve Clearance Checking Procedure/Blitz's ZX12-R Valve Clearance Checking and Adjustment Procedure.htm


.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Thanks for the reminder DRP, I completely forgot that you had made an Excel file to calculate this :grin2:

/Tom >:)
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Short update...

Well the valve check is done. It was actually not that bad if you are methodical and take your time with it. The "How to" document you can find on DRP's home page is allot of help when you do this for the first time..

I did unbolt allot of stuff that one probably doesn't need to, but then again access to work was no issue doing it this way, so I think it is worth the time and effort to unbolt the radiator and the two front engine mounts, it does not take that long, it's about a 15 minute job. Specially if you have big hands and it also makes loosening and tightening the valve cover/camshaft cap bolts easier, not to forget when you measure the valve clearances. Another reason I unbolted so much stuff was to get access to clean the underside of the frame and also on my "to do" list is removing the throttle body for a clean...

/Tom >:)

Ps. Sorry for the no pictures in this post... :|
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Spent a nice evening in the garage working on the bike. Kinda funny how fast you can take stuff apart, but then the assembly always takes a minimum five times longer.... Any way...

Pic. 1. Valve check done. New spark plugs. -Yes, the Kleen Air thingy is still there...
Pic. 2. Started to bolt stuff back. Exhaust pipes bolted on with new studs and nuts. Test fitted the HEL brake lines..
Pic. 3. All this while I was painting the steering stem head - Two coats of etch primer and two coats of black.
Pic. 4. Put in a new light weight Shido lithium battery... The Shido battery weighs next to nothing.
Pic. 5. Wired the SpeedoHealer and the placement on the left side of the fuse box is perfect...

Did some other minor misc things to. There is still work to be done before I can fire her up....

/Tom >:)
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Looks great!! What kind of shape are the rubber dampers in, in the front motor mounts?
cmg
-Thanks :grin2: The rubber dampers in the front motor mounts are ok, no cracks or anything that would have given me concern to put in new ones..

/Tom >:)
 

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Those timing marks on the cams look wrong. I thought it was Ex on the exhaust forward engine cam and IN facing rearwards on the inlet cam, both level with the head. Ex fitted first making sure there is no slack on the cam chain down the front of the engine.

Just Looked at the service manuals, page 4-12 for the A's and page 5-15 for B's.
 

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Those timing marks on the cams look wrong. I thought it was Ex on the exhaust forward engine cam and IN facing rearwards on the inlet cam, both level with the head. Ex fitted first making sure there is no slack on the cam chain down the front of the engine.

Just Looked at the service manuals, page 4-12 for the A's and page 5-15 for B's.
Maybe from rotating the engine to confirm valve lash they are in those positions? Good eye though!

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Hello NinjaYorkie

I did have the cam IN and EX markings in a horizontal position, just like in the picture in the manual, when I put the cams back. The cams are in that position because engine has been rotated. You will not get the markings on the cam and chain to line up any more once you rotate the engine.

The front cam (exhaust) does look like the EX marking is up, but it is the IN marking. I also had to look really close at the pic and make it larger, but the markings are IN on both cams.

-Jezuz you scared the .... outta me :grin2:

/Tom >:)
 

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Sorry to have scared you but it just looked so wrong.

I normally only put a small bit of white paint on the IN cam line recess, and a bit on the EX line cam recess, so there easier to see and line up on the head.

I can't remember if the zx-12r has markings on the inside of the cams, I know the zx-9r C's didn't, but the later E and F's did, making it easier as the perimeter frame got in the way for looking at the EX line.

I normally rotate the crank to make sure its been done right, but also to listen for the cam chain tensioner to take back up the 2 teeth less that I fitted it at, I normally rotate the crank around a couple of times till it all lines up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Sorry to have scared you but it just looked so wrong.
I normally only put a small bit of white paint on the IN cam line recess, and a bit on the EX line cam recess, so there easier to see and line up on the head.
I can't remember if the zx-12r has markings on the inside of the cams, I know the zx-9r C's didn't, but the later E and F's did, making it easier as the perimeter frame got in the way for looking at the EX line.
-It's ok, I'd rather get a little scare and fix/double check again, than have an engine grenade :|

/Tom >:)
 

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also while I was at it... Added two more decals, well one to be exact.. but both are a "shout out" to two of my heroes... Valentino "WLF" Rossi #69 and Guy Martin #8...

The 8 ball decal also covers the small nick the tank cover got during shipping...

/Tom >:)
Talk of professionalism, I love your work. So great and nice.:clap::clap::clap::clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Update...

Spent a couple of hours in garage. On the "To Do List" was the following project. Unbolt the fuel tank and take a look at the fuel pump. I did not have any real reason to do this - Stock pump was/is working fine, but I had a Walbro342 pump (#GSS342-340LPH) I bought for some reason, think it was to use it for a Nitrous system build or something that never came to anything.. Any way. I had read posts here in the forum that a couple of members have used the 342 pumps in their bikes when the stock pump gave up. Figured well I have time, I'm gonna try the 342 pump. Emptied the fuel from the tank and then unbolted the fuel tank.

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Even though I used a pump and stuck a hose down the filler I did not manage to suck all the fuel out from the tank. Reason was that either the pump or the fuel gauge thing inside the tank got in the way of the hose and I did not want to "force" the hose down to the bottom of the tank. Got most of the fuel out, but there was still about 2-3 liters of fuel left in the tank. Once I had removed the fuel tank I unbolted the fuel gauge and stuck the hose through the hole and sucked out the rest of the fuel.

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Here is the the stock pump... And the Walbro342 pump. I noticed right away that I would not be able to use the fuel filter sock that came with the Walbro pump because I would have needed to do some mods to the fuel pump frame, and I wanted to keep things as stock as possible.

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The OEM pump fuel filter sock fit the Walbro pump so I used it. You can see how large the other filter sock is, yes one could have used it, but then you would have to mod the frame, and I did not want to do that.

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The black rubber vibration damper from the OEM pump also fit the Walbro pump, so I used it.

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I was also surprised that the fuel pump attachment bracket also fit the Walbro pump...

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How ever, when I started to put everything back together I noticed that the Walbro pump is a little longer than the stock pump and that caused an issue with the fuel filter bracket. I had to do two simple mods. There are three "teeth" on the fuel filter bracket, I cut those of the get the filter higher. I also changed out the lower fuel hose between the filter and the fuel feed pipe for a longer one. The hose is about 2 centimeters longer. Now I got everything lined up and surprise, surprise even the bracket bolt holes lined up so I did not have to drill and tap new ones... Before I put everything together for a final time I cleaned the fuel filter. Sprayed brake cleaner into it, shook it and drained what ever gunk was inside it. Had to do this a couple of times until only clean brake cleaner came out. Last I attached wire ends to the positive and negative wire to get "go juice" to the pump. I also reused the plastic wire cover from the stock pump.

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I had made a parts order earlier and had new gaskets for the pump assembly and the fuel gauge.

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...Continues in the next post........
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Bolted the fuel tank back onto the bike. "Sadly" the bike is still apart so I could not test the pump. I'll test it later on when I start to put the rest bike back together...

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I also bolted on the upper steering stem that I had painted some time back.. Looks nice..

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Next on the "To Do List" is a fork service and when that is done I will start to reassemble the bike. I want to get the bike done so I can start to work and concentrate on getting my Drag Race car ready for the coming race season...

Thanks for the interest..
/Tom ?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Finally! The service stuff is done! Spent the afternoon in the garage and the forks got an oil change and changed the steering stem bearings. Think I have about 50 hours worth of work done to the bike so far and that is just test fitting new parts and at least two decades worth of service stuff. I hope I can get at least three or four seasons with out any major service other than the small stuff you have to do to keep a bike on the road. I tried to do some calculations on what everything done to the bike so far would have cost if I had had a bike shop do the work, I'll leave it at, I am happy that I am able to do this kinda work myself. This is also the reason I don't like new vehicles because you can't do much yourself because everything on them is connected one way or another to a computer... I love simple mechanical stuff....

Any way. Now I can begin to do the fun stuff, bolting the bike back together and making it look good now that the service stuff is done.
-Thanks for the interest.

/Tom

...In the picture it looks the same but there are a lot of new parts in it than sadly can't be seen...

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Update...

Started to bolt stuff back on to the bike. And I am also happy to report that the bike started with out going "BOOM", so I am happy... Can't lie, it was a little nerve wracking when I pushed the start button with fingers and toes crossed that the engine would not implode... Before start up I hooked up all the electrics and added coolant, etc... Let the engine run up to temp and rode it around the garage. I also have to say that -Damn I have some serious Delirium Motosedendum, I wan't to go out for a bike ride so bad... The winter intermission just sucks something major!!!

To the ones with hawk eyes. -Yes, I know the clutch cable is routed wrong, it should be under the coolant/radiator hose. I was just hooking everything up so I could start the engine and take the bike for a little test ride around the garage...

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I also took a short video... -Sorry about the video angle, took the video with my phone..
Click on the "Video" link... Video

Thanks!
/Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Cheers CMG

-Yes, I took the cat out when I changed to the Yoshi end can for season 2019. I really like the sound the Yoshi end can makes. It's not obnoxious and making your ears prolapse loud, but does "howl" in a nice way when one opens the throttle.

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/Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Spent an evening in the garage again. On the "Garage Menu" was to bolt and torque everything to spec and hook up the electrics. Adjusted the steering one more time. First time I set it, the steering ended up a tiny bit to tight, now it feels good. Also lubed the throttle, clutch and choke cable. Front brake is bled and also wired the front brake light switch. Set the fork adjustments back to where they need to be. Set the hand controls close to where I want them, I'll most likely have to adjust them again once the fairings are on. Set the HealTech SpeedoHealer. Etc, etc... Now that all this is done, I can move on and start attaching the fairings to the bike the next time I spend time in the garage...

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Thanks for the interest...
/Tom
 
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