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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, been creeping up this section for years and years, finally decided to pull the pin on a B3 a couple of months ago that ive been wanting for ages and decided to drop a line 馃憢

The bike has 57K Km (~36K miles) on the odo and came with: Arata (aka Striker) Ti full system, PC3, Dynojet Quickshifter, RCS19, Braided lines, Breaking front rotors, Ohlins fork springs, 1" lowered, MRA Screen, Undertail, 190/55 rear and some cosmetics i dropped on, dynoed at 169.5 @ 11231 / 12.77 Kg-m @ 7756, the bike was running super rich on the low end and lean on the top end, after some map corrections it bumped up to a good 175.3 @ 11298 / 13.2 Kg-m @ 7803. Im loving the bike, it handles absolutely great and ive had loads of fun on it.

To the bad now.. right off the bat the bike needed the starter brushes replaced which was a relatively cheap fix, all good.
Then i noticed that most of the times (ie. 1/3 shifts) the quickshifter would mishift in-between gears into a neutral state, we checked the cutoff time and it was around 65ms, bumped it to 75 and it seemed to partially fix the problem but it still occurs (a lot usually on 2-3 and 3-4) which tells me that the bike has probably been raced and the gears will need replacing.

A small trip later (around 200 miles in total) the bike developed a very subtle ticking noise when fully warmed up and after riding for a while that did seem to come from around the balancer / gearbox area. Ever since, every time i took the bike out it seems that the problem has been getting worse, the ticking started to become knocking and starts happening in less time than before but the bike still had to be fairly warm for it to kick in, giving it a good couple of revs around 6-7k would usually make it start fast-forward a couple of weeks later it just starts knocking when the bike reaches operating temp.

Solutions... I left the bike at the local shop, will check clutch basket (probably not it), Stator and if those are not it well pull the engine and check the gearbox and balancer, if it comes to this while were at ill replace the stripped gears, and might throw in some fresh con rod bearings, JE 83mm 13.0:1 pistons (not sold on the 86mm yet) and a thinner head gasket. Any tips or thoughts on the knocking issue would be greatly appreciated!

While the bike's sitting at the shop i decided to take up the challenge and make a digital 7" tft dash from scratch to replace the analog unit and add some data logging to the game, more info on that soon but its coming along nicely!

- Axcell

Oh and some pics:

Water Tire Wheel Boat Watercraft
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Vehicle

Wheel Tire Sky Fuel tank Cloud
Automotive lighting Light Black Vehicle Lighting
 

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Bike looks great.
Trans issues sound like you need to make sure you are positively giving it a good shift with the foot.
I have gotten a false neutral because of a lazy shift.
If it鈥檚 not that , then sounds like gear dogs or shift forks.
Engine noise sounds like a rod bearing.

I have looked at a few dash options. I鈥檇 be interested in your project.

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If it's a con rod bearing fingers crossed it hasn't taken a toll on the crank then, they'll probably start taking it apart next week. Regarding the trans I'm pretty positive I've tried hammering gears and still got mishifts so well see once it's open..

About the dash, I'll post up a new thread this week with more info, I'm getting close to a working prototype just don't have the bike atm to get some sensor voltage readings that I need to align the data values.

Axcell
 

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run a regular thickness hg not the thin with the high cr pistons
 
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is the oil light flickering when hot at idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No lights flickering, also the bike has some fresh 300v 10w40.

Is the 13.5:1 with the thin gasket going to be too much for pump gas? (although we have 100 octane pump here) If I'm gonna ne needing a bucket of race fuel to run it then yeah I guess I won't.
 

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My brother's B6 had a noise like that. It went away...
Had a full akrapovic system. We pulled the exhaust off and resealed all the joins with some Copper RTV and the sound stopped
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats a weird one, first time ive ever heard of that, but then again im no expert 馃槄.
In my case ive been up and down the bike multiple times trying to locate where its coming from, but it doesnt sound like its coming from the head plus when it gets knocking really good you can feel it on the pegs and handlebars. Leaning towards cmg's rod bearing mention, the balancer and gearbox.

Been thinking about brakes and how the oem tokico calipers are pretty close to reaching adulthood, they havent given me any reason to not trust them but since their servicing past is questionable, ive been considering grabbing a second hand set of M4 or GP4RX (the latter if i could get a really good deal). Ive also heard ZX14 nissins are pretty good cheaper alternative.

Axcell
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you keep the original MC from the A1 or go for the nissin one? Or rcs?

There is supposed to be some kind of MC size to caliper piston size ratio that I'm trying to figure out. Ie the M50s (30mm) work better with the rcs17 rarher than the 19 and vise versa for the M4s (34mm). From what I've seen the 14 has a 17mm MC, haven't been able to find the caliper piston diameter but I'm guessing it's 30mm which would make them too small for the rcs19 (just a theory, I could be very very wrong)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Checked stator/clutch and nada. Decided to pull the motor off next week and start digging, plan is to replace all ball bearings, crank/conrod bearings, drop in high comp pistons, replace valve seals and inspect the transmission gears, bushings etc. Plus anything else that might seem as a potential cause. And when (and if..) its back together hopefully it wont knock again.

I declare bankruptcy.

As a side note, considering how expensive kawasaki ball bearings are, are there any alternatives?
 
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