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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey KW members.

:banghead:NewB here. I have posted in a much older post, but am not seeing any rebuttals. My problem is my project bike, 92 zx1100c. I have replaced battery, IC igniter, starter relay, starter solenoid, cleaned the carbs, put in fresh gas. There is an electrical problem somewhere and I am absolutely stumped as to where to find it. i have tried to be as methodical as possible. Eliminating one item at a time, using my meter to test continuity and voltage across connections.:banghead:

I have pulled my plugs to see if there is any spark. nothing. I have to jump the solenoid to get the machine to turn over. It turns over well and I smell gas and when I pulled the plugs, all were wet. What does not happen is nothing turns over when I push the start button, and yes the run switch is on every time and ignition switch is set to the run position with Christmas lights all on.

I took both ignition coils off and tested them and am fairly sure they are good. the primary winding reading was good. had a hard time trying to read the secondary windings, couldn't do it. Don't know where to turn now before heading to the service department at local dealership. PLEASE HELP. I'm going:tard::runaway::loco::headscratch:
 

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Have you looked at your pickup coil? Some call it the pulsing coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for you suggestions and starting points. I will definitely look in to both possible areas of improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like you got a bad ground somewhere...
Yup, it was a ground. Negative battery post to ground on ?generator/alternator? It was looking very cruddy. spiffed it up with some sandpaper and and power was restored to all points in the ignition sequence.

My next problem is the that my spark is intermittent. While I was initially very excited that power now flows to the ICs, only one was working a little. I have tried to test both of them to see if the ICs are both good and all I got was both primary windings appear to be okay. it is the secondary windings that I am not sure about. Help with this is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
More room for discussion. I have replaced spark plugs, checked coil packs, which ohmed out within speck. Still not getting spark to the plugs. When I place the plugs close together then a spark jumps between them and then the spark plugs fire. Would that be bad wires or bad ICs? HELP PLEASE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well unknown friends and peers, my project bike has started at last. So please disregard any references to no spark no bark. :thumbup::crazyloco::mfclap:This bike has a bark alright. Now my dilemma is tuning. I got it to start on full choke, but very quickly ran into a new mystery.

1. cannot take it off full choke.
2. only dies when I try to add throttle.

I have never tuned up a bike before, pointers for this are welcome. What are some of the first obvious things to check or do.

things I have done already.
1. new spark plugs
2. new gas
3. cleaned carbs and jets put them back exactly the way I pulled them apart.
a. so I don't know if this may have caused any running issues.
4. new oil
5. new coolant (this obviously does not help with idle.)
6. new battery
7. came with K&N air filter and box
8. some shop did big bore kit on it with previous owner(don't know what that means unless taken at face value and engine has been bored out some, not a clue)
9. that's all I got for now. comments and helpful hints are welcome.

These 2 videos are what really helped me out.
 

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I chased an electrical gremlin in an 86 Ninja 1000R similar to this. Never figured it out, and sold it while it ran good enough. Replaced everything but the main harness in that thing. Would run good for a bit, then die and only start on choke. Leave it sit for a day or 2 and it would run good for a week again.

As for cleaning the carbs, as long as you put it all back together the way it came apart, you should be alright. I dunno if those carbs have rubber tipped needles, but if so, be careful using carb cleaner, as it will swell them tips quick as shit. Check your float level to make sure you have enough fuel in the bowls. Carbs are pretty easy to clean tho.

I will be curious to see what you find. Check for vacuum leaks at the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was checking in the service manual to see what else I could do and it said to adjust the idle control to within speck, which for CA is 1200 +/- 50 rpm. They also said to check fuel level in the float bowels, but I am not sure how to go about that. I don't have the tool they suggest. The manual also suggests synchronizing the carbs. Looks easy, I just can't do it while the bike is running. I don't have a way to feed fuel with my tank off to get to the work area. One of the videos I posted, the guy talks about adjusting an air valve of some sort and it was different from the idle control. Do these carbs have something like that?

Something else that I did was adjust the idle control, at first is was stiff to turn and now it turns fairly easily and I don't know if I broke it. Is it possible to do that? So after my "fix" on full choke the bike runs at 2000 rpm and as I decrease the choke ever so slightly idle come down but then the bike dies if I close the choke. So I have a bad fuel air combination with choke and carbs. :frustrated:
 

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It is easy to check your float level. All you need is a foot or so of clear rubber hose that fits over the tit on the bottom of the bowl. Take one of the black lines to the hardware store and get a similar hose in clear. Then all you do is verify the level of the gas when you open the valve on the bowl matches what the manual says...usually somewhere close to where the bowl mates the carb body.

As long as changing the idle screw changes the idle, even with it on choke, you didn't break it. It should be good on choke at 2k for idle off choke. Keep in mind that this screw opens the throttle plates, letting more air in. If you don't have enough fuel to atomize, it will lean out and stall.

There should be holes sealed off on the bottoms of the carbs that are your pilot (idle air/fuel) settings. They are set at the factory and sealed off, but you can remove the caps and get to them if need be. Last resort idea there. Start at 1.5 turns off seat.

Whenever you can't idle off choke, it is usually caused by a lean condition. Not enough fuel. The choke corrects this by limiting air intake. You may have to take the carbs off again and verify your work. Make sure the float needles ain't sticking. Buy new ones and put them in if you want to be sure. Just be sure when you are messing with the floats, you don't bend the tang that rests on the needle. This controls the fuel level in the bowl, and if it is changes either way you will have issues. Too much and the carbs will leak, too little and you won't pick up any fuel.

Another possibility is make sure the carbs are fully seated in the boots on the head, and make sure the boots on the head aren't cracked to hell. Make sure you have good vacuum lines without cracks and are nice and flexible. Make sure your open sync tits are blocked off.

As for feeding fuel, you can make some sort of delivery system with a rubber line and a container you can hang over the bike somehow. It doesn't have to be huge. Gravity will feed the fuel, and the floats will regulate the flow in the carbs if working properly.

Once you verify the fuel system is good, the bike should run. One other thing you want to check is compression. Make sure this is within spec. It does sound like a fuel delivery issue in your case tho....

Another thought is make sure your pickup screen in tank ain't plugged. Is the tank.rusty at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lots of great suggestions about the carbs. I will definitely do what I can to improve the performance.

I was able to put my gas tank on the side and use it, so running the bike is okay now while working on the carbs. I will admit that I am a little apprehensive about messing with the carbs to tune them up.

My vacuum tubes are all flexible and don't show cracks in them. There is one tube tho that got chewed on by a rat/mouse, but not all the way through. Might need to replace that one.

One of my big fixes at the beginning of this build was gas tank. It was very rusty inside, so I took ball bearings to it and used apple vinegar to clean it out. worked very well and did replace the old metal mesh screen.

I have noticed that when I try to rev the engine the valves with the long needles do not all open equally at the same time. Numbers 1,3,4 all open simultaneously, but #2 lags just a bit. When I had the carbs apart all the rubber bladders on the top sides were undamaged too.

You are most likely correct. I hate to do this, I will have to take the blessed things off again and see if the I can't adjust things from the inside or replace tiny pieces. After that is will be off to the shop to have pro fix it. Wish me luck.
 

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The rubber on top of your needles can possibly have pin holes that will prevent it from raising with the intake vacuum. The way to find out is to gently stretch it and look for holes to open up. Don't pull so hard you make new holes, but, you can tell what is right by feel. Another issue those sliders can have is they bind up against the walls in the carb body. They get worn out with time and use. They last a while tho. Make sure there is nothing to cause them to bind, and that you can slide them freely with your finger. If you feel any binding, even a slight bit, check why.

If you had a buttload of rust in the tank, make sure you have free fuel flow from the petcock. Put the feed end of the fuel line into a container and turn the petcock to PRI. It should flow freely, provided you have enough fuel in the tank. Rusty tanks suck. If there was any residual rust particles in the tank when you filled it back up, they could have very well gotten into your jets again, and plugged everything back up. Even metal flakes from the clean out can do it as well. Did you flush the tank thru before you filled it and ran the bike? It pays on them older bikes sometimes to have one of those glass inline cleanable filters in there. That's what I used to do when I had rusty tanks.

Carbs are pretty easy to just clean. There are a bunch of tiny air and fuel passages in the carb bodies, ajd sometimes they need to be separated and chem dipped to get them good and clean. Sometimes you can luck out with a couple cans of carb cleaner with a well placed red tube and a full press spray. Cover your eyes tho...haha. It sucks to get carb cleaner in your eyes. If they need to be chem dipped, and if you ain't confident in your skill to take them down and reassemble them, then yea, it may be best to have a "pro" do it. Or you could dive in and give it a go and learn a new skill. Only thing to remember is chem dip will eat all plastic and rubber. So all of that needs to be removed. Chem dip in a gallon can usually runs $35 at the auto store and you can dip a shitload of carbs and other parts before you need a new can...
 

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blow out your pilots and your mains again...

go to the hardware store and get a generic fuel filter, splice it in between the tank and the bank of carbs..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks folks for the input. I have been playing around with the bike a little and noticed a strange problem. While it was idling I pushed the slider up manually and only on carb #3 did I get a response from the engine. Numbers 1,2, and 4, the idle did not change. #3 however, when I pushed it up the engine revved up. So this tells me that fuel is not getting to the engine or at least not enough. I guess while on idle fuel gets to where it needs to but not when accelerating. More input is welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
UP DATE, UP DATE, UP DATE. Found my problem at last. :bounce:. my slow jets were clogged. I cleaned those out and voila the problems melted away. The bike really screams. Can't wait to get it on the street. Slow and steady wins the race.:king:
 
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