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I haven't ever taken a clutch apart, so don't flame me. But I am going to be attempting this sometime with my new 12r in the near future. I'm trying to understand the first and second pic. The way the holes are in the hub now, do they go 3 holes/ 2 holes/ 3 holes / 2 holes all the way around? The ones with 3 holes you drill as marked, and the ones with 2 holes drill as marked? Just curious as to how many "sets" of holes their were, and if it mattered on what side of the hub they were on.

Also, when grinding the stock pusher, does it matter what side you grind down? I assume it doesn't.
 

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BUMP... I'll be attempting to drill the hub and notch the pusher here in a day or two. My only question, my hub currently has no holes in it. Do you think it matters exactly where the holes are drilled, as in, the distance from the top of the hub to the bottom of the hub? Like you have in this photo, the 3 holes seem to be all about equal distance apart, from top to bottom. Is there an exact distance for the spacing or as long as they are about equal I should be OK?



Also, I assume this picture is just showing the muzzy modified sleeve? Anything I can do with the stocker, or just do the drilled hub and notched pusher?

 

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?? Any help from someone who has done the drill mod?

Also, just making sure, those bit sizes seem TINY (I don't even have any that small in my drill bit kit)... looks like I'll have to run to the hardware store and buy a few bits.
 

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it doesnt have to be exactly like that as long as you space them uniformly. imo after looking at this now, and having seen a lot more hubs (brands with and without mods) since i wrote this, im guessing Muzzys did this to make it hard to copy(so you buy their stuff). IMO if you just drill some 1/16- 1/8 holes you will be fine. as long as it allows the oil to be dispersed evenly to the pack. ill be doing a new one in a few weeks, ill get new pics then, just be sure not to hit where the steels slide, do the very middle of the grooves and try to chamfer the edges with a larger bit top and bottom
dont bother with the sleeve, i didnt on dads 00, just notch the pusher a bit.
one more thing, if you dont notch the pusher all the way, you will only get extra oil when the clutch lever is pulled in. no need to oil the pack when its locked in.
Thanks. I was having a hell of a time finding those drill bit sizes. Bought a micro-drill bit set at Harbor Freight tonight, metric ranging from .5mm to 3.0mm.... what's the reason to chamfer the top and bottom ones? why not all of them?

From the kit I bought, I think I'll use the 2.0mm (.078") to drill all the holes, then use the 2.35mm (.092") to chamfer it.

And with the pusher, how far is not all the way? Should I follow the pattern you have colored in you pic?


I'll be doing mine tomorrow or friday, I'll take some pics along the way :)
 

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you have stated 4 "groove" spacing in between, but it doesn't work out perfectly that way (as seen in your above pic, you had to use a couple 3 groove spacing).

on mine, i did 3 groove spacing the whole way around, and went ahead and drilled 3 holes for each one (versus doing the 3 then 2 then 3 etc). i used my 2mm drill bit (.078") and did a chamfer on the top and bottom hole in each groove with a 3mm bit. I also notched my pusher just like your picture, i used a tad over 1/8" flat spot.

not sure if the way i did it will give TO MUCH oil to the clutch pack? i rode the bike a good 80 miles today, felt great. I'm going on a 1000 mile road trip leaving tomorrow, be back Sunday. I plan to pull the clutch pack out once I get back and inspect it.
 

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srry, the muzzy is definately spaced like the last pic. but you would have found out if you marked out everything before drilling any holes.
lol ya, i did. i marked everything, then was like WTF? as it didn't work out right. So i just did 3 groove spacing and it worked out fine.
 

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Here's my pusher...



I'm right at an 1/8" where I grinded it down. I pulled my clutch pack last night, the first couple fibers had oil on them, and there was some oil in the bottom of the hub, but the majority of the fibers were dry. I think I'm going to grind the pusher more towards 1/4" and see if that helps.
 

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Here's where I went last night... assembled it all together, fired it up, going for a test ride this afternoon....

 

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updated pic.... started the bike while it was on the rear stand, ran it through a few gears, put it back in neutral. waited 30 minutes, tore it apart. Here is the oil that was present in the hub as I pulled it apart....


 

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Here's my pusher...



I'm right at an 1/8" where I grinded it down. I pulled my clutch pack last night, the first couple fibers had oil on them, and there was some oil in the bottom of the hub, but the majority of the fibers were dry. I think I'm going to grind the pusher more towards 1/4" and see if that helps.
IMO i would try a little more to the right first, its not quite to the wear point, so it may not be getting the full amount if the lever isnt all the way to the bar. I would bring it to the edge of the wear point. im not really used to the stock ones anymore lol, been dealing with the MTC piece for so long now, you just have to do the tip of those
Here's where I went last night... assembled it all together, fired it up, going for a test ride this afternoon....

If i remember correctly, this ended up being just under 1/4 wide that was ground down. I made about 30-40 passes at the strip last year, no issues. Over 2000 miles on the street, no issues. Still on the OEM clutch which has almost 17k miles on it. No decrease in power or ET from my best guess. I had drag raced before and after, but there was other power increasing mods added, and also a drastic change in elevation, so it's hard to say exactly.
 

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Thanks this is the answer which needed :)
to sum up we should modify the pusher or the hub. The pusher by cutting, the hub by drilling.
BOTH, modding the sleeve is not needed tho
like he said, you FLAT SPOT the pusher AND DRILL the hub. Flat spotting the pusher allows oil to get inside the hub, holes in the hub then allow that oil to reach the clutch pack.

KZScotts photo on the first page shows the diameter of the holes that you need to drill, and in what spots you need to drill them. As a not to that, when I did MINE, i drilled mine all the same diameter (I can't recall exactly what it was, but it was similar to what he has listed for one of them) and I drilled 3 holes each time, not the 3/2 sequence he has pictured.
 
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