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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
thought this might be helpful for new guys getting into drag racing with the first gen 12R
the purpose of the following mod is to get oil from the trans shaft to the clutch pack. Muzzy has a kit that modifies a sleeve and the hub (hard to copy without maching equipment) or you can drill the hub and do the flat spot trick or drill the pusher(with EDM).
I had a Muzzy modified sleeve and hub in my bike when i got it. I copied the drill pattern in the hub where the clutch pack goes for dads hub, and did a flat spot to the pusher. its very hard to copy the machining by the sleeve/hub nut on the hub. hes running an MTC lock up so his pusher is different than the stock ones, so ill include a pic of how to modify a stock one too







dont grind too much off or you will have too much oil in the clutch robbing power, and it will lower the oil pressure. start with a small amount and work up untill you no longer have dry clutchs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes they go 2 holes, 3 holes, 2 holes, 3 holes all the way around, just count the notches inbetween to get the spacing, mark them with a sharpie before you go at it.
everything spins, so no it doesnt matter. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bump
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
leave 4 "grooves" between the grooves with holes

those are the sizes Muzzys picked to drill in the hub. ive since used larger and found no problems. the biggest thing is getting the oil supply to the hub correct by grinding the pusher

the diagram pic is with a stock pusher. the one with the circle and actual grind mark is an MTC piece used with a lock up. the oem piece is the same diameter all the way where the MTC piece is only the size of the oem piece at the tip, and is smaller for the rest of the way. this helps the piece to not bind in the trans if theres any side to side play. so you only need to grind the tip of the mtc piece to allow oil flow, but you need to grind the oem piece from the tip to where the piece enters the trans shaft. on a street bike it may be a good idea to only grind it far enough so that it remains "sealed" when the clutch pack is compressed, and when you pull the lever and pull the shaft out of the trans a little, have it "open" the oil flow by showing the flat spot. that way you only get oil when you pull the lever you dont really need any oil in there when its locked in and you are cruising
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it doesnt have to be exactly like that as long as you space them uniformly. imo after looking at this now, and having seen a lot more hubs (brands with and without mods) since i wrote this, im guessing Muzzys did this to make it hard to copy(so you buy their stuff). IMO if you just drill some 1/16- 1/8 holes you will be fine. as long as it allows the oil to be dispersed evenly to the pack. ill be doing a new one in a few weeks, ill get new pics then, just be sure not to hit where the steels slide, do the very middle of the grooves and try to chamfer the edges with a larger bit top and bottom
dont bother with the sleeve, i didnt on dads 00, just notch the pusher a bit.
one more thing, if you dont notch the pusher all the way, you will only get extra oil when the clutch lever is pulled in. no need to oil the pack when its locked in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
top and bottom of each hole(both sides of all the holes)
yes to the coloured pattern, you should see a wear pattern on your piece unless its new, that will tell you where to stop
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so i did a practice run with larger holes on a used 02 hub. i used the same spacing as my original muzzy modified 01 hub. this hub is at the point where ill start my season with it, but probly replace it soon.....
holes are 5/32, not really room on the "top" of the hole for a chamfer, but being so big i dont think they really need it. (my .02)
3 marks stands for 3 holes, 1 mark stands for 2 holes....

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
srry, the muzzy is definately spaced like the last pic. but you would have found out if you marked out everything before drilling any holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
nice pic. report back! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
lets keep this post for information plz. anyone can burn up a clutch no matter how fast they are or arent. this is to help that issue....
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
IMO i would try a little more to the right first, its not quite to the wear point, so it may not be getting the full amount if the lever isnt all the way to the bar. I would bring it to the edge of the wear point. im not really used to the stock ones anymore lol, been dealing with the MTC piece for so long now, you just have to do the tip of those
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
thats what i would try first
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
have any of those 70000 been a drag pass with a decent 60ft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
any tests done with a launch and shifting up thru the gears? that might be a little too much oil? hard to tell without a good simulated drag run
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
i dont know if it would slip(maybe?), but i think it would add rotating weight and maybe rob a psi or so from other places until the pump overcame the relief valve pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
go to the drag strip, make a pass, drive back to pits, pull the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
i dont have any pics. they should be wet, but not dripping IMO. there will be a little in the hub. once you stop burning up plates thats enough lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Is there something different with A model and B model bikes that would make this unnecessary on say a 2003 B2? .
there are differences, but the answer is NO:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Muzzy starts with an oem hub and does a similar process
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks for answer KZScott, but I still dont know what is exactly the difference betwen this hubs. I want to know this because I am going to tune my ZX to around 210HP, and the clutch is very important part in this process - in my opinion.
So what about the wholes? Maybe general dimentions are some different? Are you able to make mesures of it.
and for last please confirm, this same modyfications are you made in 2002 and Younger ZX12?
look at the pics on the first page, all the info is there as far as spacing and hole size. same process for all yrs
 
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