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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Muzzy starts with an oem hub and does a similar process
 

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Thanks for answer KZScott, but I still dont know what is exactly the difference betwen this hubs. I want to know this because I am going to tune my ZX to around 210HP, and the clutch is very important part in this process - in my opinion.
So what about the wholes? Maybe general dimentions are some different? Are you able to make mesures of it.
and for last please confirm, this same modyfications are you made in 2002 and Younger ZX12?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks for answer KZScott, but I still dont know what is exactly the difference betwen this hubs. I want to know this because I am going to tune my ZX to around 210HP, and the clutch is very important part in this process - in my opinion.
So what about the wholes? Maybe general dimentions are some different? Are you able to make mesures of it.
and for last please confirm, this same modyfications are you made in 2002 and Younger ZX12?
look at the pics on the first page, all the info is there as far as spacing and hole size. same process for all yrs
 

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Here's my pusher...



I'm right at an 1/8" where I grinded it down. I pulled my clutch pack last night, the first couple fibers had oil on them, and there was some oil in the bottom of the hub, but the majority of the fibers were dry. I think I'm going to grind the pusher more towards 1/4" and see if that helps.
IMO i would try a little more to the right first, its not quite to the wear point, so it may not be getting the full amount if the lever isnt all the way to the bar. I would bring it to the edge of the wear point. im not really used to the stock ones anymore lol, been dealing with the MTC piece for so long now, you just have to do the tip of those
Here's where I went last night... assembled it all together, fired it up, going for a test ride this afternoon....

If i remember correctly, this ended up being just under 1/4 wide that was ground down. I made about 30-40 passes at the strip last year, no issues. Over 2000 miles on the street, no issues. Still on the OEM clutch which has almost 17k miles on it. No decrease in power or ET from my best guess. I had drag raced before and after, but there was other power increasing mods added, and also a drastic change in elevation, so it's hard to say exactly.
 

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Guys Thanks for help. from begening I know what to do with the pusher, but I am asking you about the hub. As I mentioned previously, I have bought this part and I cant see the difference between my (original from other bike) and this one below. All what I am asking you regarding this item.
I read all pages of this topic, as I understand - in all your cases you "fixed" the pusher not not the hub. I have posibilities to made this hub (my friends working in kind of factory)
KZScott you drew the arrow (to the hole). I am asking you about the holes, are they drilled through? Because on my pusher they are drilled in 4mm of hub
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
if you did the "flat spot" mod to the pusher then you dont need to do anything the the sleeve that fits in the needle bearings.

the holes in the hub (where the steels slide) are drilled through, this is how the oil gets from inside the hub, to the clutch pack
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Thanks this is the answer which needed :)
to sum up we should modify the pusher or the hub. The pusher by cutting, the hub by drilling.

BOTH, modding the sleeve is not needed tho
 

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Thanks this is the answer which needed :)
to sum up we should modify the pusher or the hub. The pusher by cutting, the hub by drilling.
BOTH, modding the sleeve is not needed tho
like he said, you FLAT SPOT the pusher AND DRILL the hub. Flat spotting the pusher allows oil to get inside the hub, holes in the hub then allow that oil to reach the clutch pack.

KZScotts photo on the first page shows the diameter of the holes that you need to drill, and in what spots you need to drill them. As a not to that, when I did MINE, i drilled mine all the same diameter (I can't recall exactly what it was, but it was similar to what he has listed for one of them) and I drilled 3 holes each time, not the 3/2 sequence he has pictured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
yes it doesnt need to be as exact as the Muzzy dimensions. Ive since seen several modified hubs and its not rocket surgery. just get them even so it stays balanced
 

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I have a spare hub and sleeve and access to a good machinist.

I can do the hub drilling myself but am wondering if the machinist can drill the sleeve?

I'm guessing the sleeve is basically an "L" shaped channel that travels from one end of the sleeve face to a certain depth then a right angled channel to meet up with the outer curvature of the sleeve. I think I also noticed an initial drilling on the sleeve face has a notch on the inner circumference to capture the oil?

Make sense?

Or just too much of a headache to do?

I know I could just grind the puller shaft but am worried if I go too far then too much oil.

Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
you have to machine the bottom of the hub to do it that way (see the 3 grooves muzzy does)
 

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Yep thanks KZScott, I'll have to decide if worth the effort, I just don't want to overdo the pusher if I go that way. From what I can see the amount of grinding on the pusher come just short of the end of the wear mark in the pics, unfortunately Hibs pics don't show up on my iPad anymore.

Don.
 

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I've studied the pics I've found of the muzzy modified hub and the one you have of the sleeve. From what I can see all they have done to the sleeve is to notch the inner edge of one of the holes drilled on the face of the sleeve as shown in your pic.The hub has the three grooved channels running out from the centre shaft hole. Does this sound correct?

If this is all they have done, along with the holes drilled in groups of 3 and 2 as you have done, then I think I will do the sleeve and hub modification as I have both as spare parts anyway and may as well use them.
 

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There's a saying: It's better to keep one's mouth shut and be thought a fool than to open it and remove all doubt!

After doing more extensive research online at various posts concerning all things zx12r clutch, I finally realised the holes on one end of the basket 'sleeve' are short blind ended ones, and can be used to remove the sleeve using a 4mm threaded bolt. They are not continuous with the hole drilled on the side of the sleeve. This now makes sense to me as to drilling the notch by one of the holes to allow oil flow through to the hub, once that has had the three shallow channels drilled at its base, as per the muzzy setup.

Thus the reference by KZScott in following pic!

Sometimes I'm so slow to pick things up until I've re-read a few times it scares me!

KZScott;458656[IMG said:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/KZScott/dads%20bike/clutch/M4.jpg[/IMG]
Ok pic might not show up, it's the 4th one on first page of this topic.
 

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KZScott, I have just found your post from 2007 on Bikeland re 'Broken clutch parts'.

Looks like the sleeve needs those holes drilled right through, as well as the notch cut on one end of one of them.

Also looks like apart from the three grooves cut at the base of the hub, there is also a hole drilled through by the toothed hole at the centre of the hub, to allow oil through from behind and then along the holes in the sleeve, and finally to the grooves to feed the inside of the hub from behind the washer, then flung out the row of holes drilled in the hub casing to feed the clutch plates/fibres.

This is looking increasingly like the pusher shaft is MUCH easier to modify and just drill the series of holes in the hub, set and forget!

Don.
 

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I did this mod probly about 10k miles ago. Today when I checked it, it's still pretty dry. But with the little amount of wear and consistent grip can't ask for more. Don't know how much it has helped but don't think it hurt any.
 
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