[digitalli]

srry, the muzzy is definately spaced like the last pic. but you would have found out if you marked out everything before drilling any holes.

 

[Issaubaldo]

thanks, this thread was a great help to me

 

[Tyler_P360]

So much useful info here, thanks guys

 

[KZScott]

Ok, it's been a LONG time since this was written and I've seen a lot of clutches from various bikes that were drag raced since.

Let's simplify this!

I'm going to do a basic recap of what we are doing because I'm too lazy to read through the whole post. 😅

We are trying to get oil into the clutch pack, and the easiest location to source it is right in the middle from the trans input shaft. The trans is pressurized and is constantly bleeding oil out around the gears etc. The clutch "pusher" is not a prefect plug in the end of the shaft and some oil can bleed out here, but not enough for some applications like drag racing, so we're going to increase the amount of leakage here. If you have used parts, it will show you where the pusher is in the input shaft by the wear pattern. What I like to do is grind/sand away part of the shaft that is acting as the plug just up to before the end of the wear mark. So when the clutch lever is out, it's still a plug, but when you pull the lever in, you get the oil leakage. It's likely a drop in the bucket as far as total oil pressure goes, so if you grind a little past its probably not the end if the world, but I don't see a need for a slight drop in pressure when the clutch lever is out and you're driving normally. Squeeze the lever in, and it pulls the pusher shaft out of the input shaft uncovering the sanded area. So when you're getting ready to do a launch, you have some oil flowing.

Ok, now we have oil into the middle of the hub, next is to get it into the pack. This is where it gets easier than the previous set of instructions. Lay out the hub with a top view like my picture with the red sharpie. Mark a groove and then skip 3. 1 set of holes with be almost on a rib, but it's not bad at all, use a sight angle on those ones. The hub is 60mm tall, so I decided to use 20mm and 40mm to mark each sharpied groove. If you feel the need to do extras, have at it. 3 or 4 holes would be fine. 2 is likely lots. I feel like muzzys over complicated it. An automatic prick punch is nice for making sure your drill bit doesn't wander too badly. I used a 3/32 bit. Anything around there will be fine. Just don't hit the sides of the grooves where the steels slide or they may catch and bind up. Go slow, be careful, new hubs aren't cheap. Next you will need to deburr the inside of the hub. A small round cutter works well in either a drill or dremmel. You don't need to be too fussy, just get in there and give it a little rub.

That's it! Clean everything and put it back together.

 

[JaysonP1121]

Thanks for the post Scott. Somehow missed all of this in my research and will have to modify the MTC billet basket like this.

 

[Duck00]

This is for the clutch hub, not the billet basket.
The MTC billet basket doesn't need drilling at all.
Just incase you've read it wrong, if not then disregard.

Don.

 

[JaysonP1121]

Thanks @Duck00, think i need to go back to lurking instead of showing hiw dumb I am lol.

 

[Duck00]

Ha! Don't worry about that, If I didn't post every time I thought I'd sound dumb then I may as well sell my computer!