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Discussion Starter #1
Time for a refill but which is is easy to do , take the lower fairing off or get away with one side of the v piece to gain access to the filter ?
 

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Just take the "V" piece out but some oil will drop on to the lower fairing stick some rags in there :) before removing it. Dead easy job and to think the manual tells you to take it to a dealer for an oil filter change ?.
 

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Yeah , looks easier to just take the v section out. Like Mauser mentioned , the manual says take to the dealer , sod that for a game of soldiers , I'll do it myself. How many screws are there to remove , looks like 2 to me per side.
 

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Mine has 2 screws 1 each side @ the bottom of the "V" holding the fairings together, undo these and then pop the "V" out @ the top from it's rubber gromets and lift out, filter may be tight I use the type with a socket pressed into the filter body which makes removal easy.
KN oil filter KAWASAKI ZX12R Ninja 2000 - 2005 on eBay (end time 04-Dec-09 14:23:42 GMT)
I buy mine from this guy on fleabay good service and use Silkolene Super 4 10w40 which I get locally for £20 for 4 litres.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for that Mauser , had the oil and filter for a while , just needed to get my arse in gear to get it done. Also bought the filter remover at the same time. What about anti freeze , not sure but looking at mine looks like theres none in.
 

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Thanks for that Mauser , had the oil and filter for a while , just needed to get my arse in gear to get it done. Also bought the filter remover at the same time. What about anti freeze , not sure but looking at mine looks like theres none in.
:scared::scared::scared:
 

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I would assume he just means there is none in the puke bottle. Not really a big deal. Fill it up half way with some 50/50 green and you'll be good.
Dont forget the water wetter...

Of course, some will tell you its a crock, personally I have no scientific evidence but I do use it.

Oh, and the undisputable... BURP the system! Air purge is crucial!
 

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hi, i always take fairings off and have a good clean out while i'm doing oil/filter, dont take long and usually only every 6 months.
 

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Dont forget the water wetter...

Of course, some will tell you its a crock, personally I have no scientific evidence but I do use it.

Oh, and the undisputable... BURP the system! Air purge is crucial!
IF you're using some sort of water wetter, then ya drain the whole system use just water then the additive. but my bike is not a dedicated race bike, i'll just stick to regular 'ole glycol. I recently had my radiator off when I put my hindle pipe on, had to fill it back up, but i never had to burp the system.
 

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I always take the left fairing to to clean all the mess of the oil.

I tried silkolene this last change (semi 10w-40) but I didnt like it. I feel to much the gear box and the bike makes to much vibration. Im think tommorrow I will try the Repsol full synt 10w-50.

Also is worth to change to kN oil filte?

best to all
 

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Oil Change

I changed my oil this afternoon, at 14K miles.

I don't remove any plastics.

I loosen the first screw at the bottom of the left fairing, pop the upper right peg of the 'v' plastic out of it's rubber grommet and pull it out just enough to fit my hand in. This also provides enough room to remove old filter and install new filter.

I then crack the oil filter enough so that oil begins to flow, and it will fall through the triangular shaped opening in the left fairing. If you twist the filter off too much, it will run off the back of the oil cooler and flow down the inside of the fairing. So, just crack it open and let it 'bleed' out; takes about 15 minutes.

I use mobil 1 M110 filters (or K&N HP1010 filters), and Rotella T full synthetic 5W40.

James
2003 zx12R (CSR)
 

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I changed my oil this afternoon, at 14K miles.

I don't remove any plastics.

I loosen the first screw at the bottom of the left fairing, pop the upper right peg of the 'v' plastic out of it's rubber grommet and pull it out just enough to fit my hand in. This also provides enough room to remove old filter and install new filter.

I then crack the oil filter enough so that oil begins to flow, and it will fall through the triangular shaped opening in the left fairing. If you twist the filter off too much, it will run off the back of the oil cooler and flow down the inside of the fairing. So, just crack it open and let it 'bleed' out; takes about 15 minutes.

I use mobil 1 M110 filters (or K&N HP1010 filters), and Rotella T full synthetic 5W40.

James
2003 zx12R (CSR)

Ummmmmmm!!!!!!:eek:hno::eek:hno::puzzled:


Doing maintenance on your bike should be a 'joy', not a 'chore'.

Taking the machine apart so the job is easier and a lot less stressful, taking your time to check your machine over, you'll be surprised what can fall off without even knowing about it!!!!!!!!!!!!




.
 

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I don't disagree with you, but....

....my BIGGEST complaint about the 12R is that you HAVE to take every f'n piece of plastic off, starting at the ass-end of the bike, if you want to get to ANYTHING in the engine or front end!!!

So, I agree with you 'doing maintenance on your bike should be a 'joy', not a 'chore''.
I have shared an easy a work-around for a routine oil change, so that it isn't a chore!

Keep the rubber side down,

James
2003 zx12R



Ummmmmmm!!!!!!:eek:hno::eek:hno::puzzled:


Doing maintenance on your bike should be a 'joy', not a 'chore'.

Taking the machine apart so the job is easier and a lot less stressful, taking your time to check your machine over, you'll be surprised what can fall off without even knowing about it!!!!!!!!!!!!




.
 
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