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I used a Bel946cs, it has the option of using batteries or a power cord and also comes with an eirpiece that fits inside the helmet. The installation is on an '02, but I'm sure it is the same on the earlier models.
Fisrt thing is to remove the windscreen, the gauges, and the middle light. This image is from above after everything is removed.
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Next, carve out the reflector from the middle light reflector assembly. I used a razor blade knife and it worked fine. Be very careful though, one slip and you may be buying a new reflector assembly or stitches in your fingers.
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You should see two things behind where the gauges were. The loom that connects to the gauges and the lightbulb for
the middle light. The lightbulb is connected by a quick connect. Disconnect the quick connect and cut the wires to the bulb. Use the wires that went to the bulb for your power supply. The quick connect makes it easy to work with. This is a picture of the loom for the gauges and the quick connect after is has been disconnected from the bulb.
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Although you can use batteries, it is better to wire the power supply to the detector directly so you don't have to remove the detector to change batteries. Plus, the power supply I used is switched so that it only is on when the key is on. The power supply elbow that plugs into the detector normally won't fit behind the assembly for the middle light because of how it wedges in there. So, I wired the power supply (power wire for the light) directly to the circuit board of the detector. Then wrapped the detector with duct tape to keep the power supply cord and the earpiece cord from moving around and possibly vibrating loose. When soldering the power supply to the circuit board of the detector, be sure you have the polarity right. If you are unsure of how to wire it up, I would suggest either using batteries or taking to someone who knows what they are doing with electronics. Most people are reluctant to break open a new detector and start soldering, but trust me, it works. You can still use batteries, but what a pain to have to change them. Here is the detector wired up to the power wire from the bike with the quick connect. Also, it has the earpiece wire plugged in but sliced in order to run a longer wire under the tank skin.
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Now take a wire and run it from the area behind the guages, under the tank skin, then tape the excess to the tank under where the seat will go. Splice on the quick connect so it sticks up in front of the seat a few inches. The following pictures are of the wire taped to the tank without the seat or tank skin on and of the finshed result with the quck connect sticking out in front of the seat.
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It looks like there is a piece of tape on the tank, its not. Just a reflecton from the cieling lights.
Next, time to install the detector. Splice the earpiece wire that you just ran to the earpiece wire sticking out from the detector. Connect the power wire with the quick connect. Then put a piece of velcro in the tray that the detector sits in. the area where the detector lies is curved so the velcro will only catch on the edges. The detector wedges in there pretty tight so it doesn't need much velcro to stay in place. Plus the duct tape keeps it snug in the middle light assembly. You can do this with or without the gauges connected. It is easier to do without the gauges connected but makes it harder to get to the nuts on the back of the gauges when the detector is put on first. Once the gauges are in, you can wedge the detector in and out of there with a little patience. Only requires removal of the windscreen. The following is a photo of the area with the velcro in place and the gauges in place. Oh yea, don't forget to put the middle light assembly back in either.
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And last but not least, this is the detector in place ready to go. Just need to put the windscreen back on.
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Once everything is in place, I can still reach behind the gauges to turn the detector on and to reach all the buttons. You just nead to memorize where the buttons are by feel and recognize what each of the different beeps mean. Very easy with a little practice. I would suggest praticing this before you install the detector so you can see what you are doing. When the bike is turned offf, the detector turns off. When you start the bike, you must reach behind the gauges to turn it on. It is totally hidden and never has to leave the bike. It is out of the sun and the rain and I can here the beeps from the earpiece in the helmet at all speeds. Plus, it works great with no obstructions.
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I hope this helps. Not that hard to install if you are mechanically inclined at all. Just be careful soldering on the circuit board of the detector. Let me know if there are any questions. Good luck.
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Fisrt thing is to remove the windscreen, the gauges, and the middle light. This image is from above after everything is removed.
Next, carve out the reflector from the middle light reflector assembly. I used a razor blade knife and it worked fine. Be very careful though, one slip and you may be buying a new reflector assembly or stitches in your fingers.
You should see two things behind where the gauges were. The loom that connects to the gauges and the lightbulb for
the middle light. The lightbulb is connected by a quick connect. Disconnect the quick connect and cut the wires to the bulb. Use the wires that went to the bulb for your power supply. The quick connect makes it easy to work with. This is a picture of the loom for the gauges and the quick connect after is has been disconnected from the bulb.
Although you can use batteries, it is better to wire the power supply to the detector directly so you don't have to remove the detector to change batteries. Plus, the power supply I used is switched so that it only is on when the key is on. The power supply elbow that plugs into the detector normally won't fit behind the assembly for the middle light because of how it wedges in there. So, I wired the power supply (power wire for the light) directly to the circuit board of the detector. Then wrapped the detector with duct tape to keep the power supply cord and the earpiece cord from moving around and possibly vibrating loose. When soldering the power supply to the circuit board of the detector, be sure you have the polarity right. If you are unsure of how to wire it up, I would suggest either using batteries or taking to someone who knows what they are doing with electronics. Most people are reluctant to break open a new detector and start soldering, but trust me, it works. You can still use batteries, but what a pain to have to change them. Here is the detector wired up to the power wire from the bike with the quick connect. Also, it has the earpiece wire plugged in but sliced in order to run a longer wire under the tank skin.
Now take a wire and run it from the area behind the guages, under the tank skin, then tape the excess to the tank under where the seat will go. Splice on the quick connect so it sticks up in front of the seat a few inches. The following pictures are of the wire taped to the tank without the seat or tank skin on and of the finshed result with the quck connect sticking out in front of the seat.
Next, time to install the detector. Splice the earpiece wire that you just ran to the earpiece wire sticking out from the detector. Connect the power wire with the quick connect. Then put a piece of velcro in the tray that the detector sits in. the area where the detector lies is curved so the velcro will only catch on the edges. The detector wedges in there pretty tight so it doesn't need much velcro to stay in place. Plus the duct tape keeps it snug in the middle light assembly. You can do this with or without the gauges connected. It is easier to do without the gauges connected but makes it harder to get to the nuts on the back of the gauges when the detector is put on first. Once the gauges are in, you can wedge the detector in and out of there with a little patience. Only requires removal of the windscreen. The following is a photo of the area with the velcro in place and the gauges in place. Oh yea, don't forget to put the middle light assembly back in either.
And last but not least, this is the detector in place ready to go. Just need to put the windscreen back on.
Once everything is in place, I can still reach behind the gauges to turn the detector on and to reach all the buttons. You just nead to memorize where the buttons are by feel and recognize what each of the different beeps mean. Very easy with a little practice. I would suggest praticing this before you install the detector so you can see what you are doing. When the bike is turned offf, the detector turns off. When you start the bike, you must reach behind the gauges to turn it on. It is totally hidden and never has to leave the bike. It is out of the sun and the rain and I can here the beeps from the earpiece in the helmet at all speeds. Plus, it works great with no obstructions.
I hope this helps. Not that hard to install if you are mechanically inclined at all. Just be careful soldering on the circuit board of the detector. Let me know if there are any questions. Good luck.
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