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Discussion Starter #1
I Figure I would make this place, 'Home Base' for my new project ECU. See how long I last here. :rotflmao:


FOR RACING PURPOSES ONLY

Here is my attempt to build a racing wire harness from scratch, basically. I got the go ahead to start my harness/software/ECU project.

If anyone is interested about reading how to make a racing wire harness for a 14, I'm about to give it a go. This is totally experimental in concept.

I'm sure others built a special harness for their race bikes. I'm more or less setting this bike up for minimum weight. With just the basics to get the bike running, I am not interested in the speedo or tach.

But no sense denying, I'd love to gain a sponsor with a used dash pod that is obsolete [I could borrow] that can read the tach signal. I've seen these high end looking 'track bike friendly' dash swaps that have a lot of trick bells and whistles. Things like a tach that whips up like the water or gas bars; It just fills the dash on the way up with little squares.

Then the trick part are the lap counters with other options. So, in that sense, you have your tach and speedo back via an aftermarket instrument pod.

I'm about to reverse engineer the way the bike operates. Since this is all new to me, I figure the only way to get to know my little strange buddy box is to pick at it.

I somewatt have help behind the scenes. Old racing connections you might say. I pretty much have free reign to a dyno :mfclap:
Pretty much have free stuff so I can continue studying what makes this baby tick.

All I am working with are the tools at hand = The 14. I keep learning things about the bike but cannot crack what questions I have.

The software of this racing ECU I have, did not show me what I needed to know. I think I am asking deeper questions that only the EE's would know how to answer, along with the C/C+/C++ kind of programmers you need, meaning to have that background to develop the software language. :banghead:

Since I know these are pretty much factory secrets that are easy to explain, I am trying to walk the way the bike moves in certain steps.

I doubt the trek to this wire harness attempt will not help me with the answers to my questions. It will more or less cause me to make many mistakes alone the way so I can backtrack, figure out a new angle and then proceed with the final result = A running 14 with a different ECU.

This is basically what I am starting out with. A bone stock ECU/harness off of a Kawi1000 something? I'll match as many components needed off the 14. See if the bike will start?
If the bike starts, then I will plug in the (NG) ECU. This happens to be a 'racing kit-ECU' with software for both the 600 and 1000 Kawi's.

See if reverse engineering can light her off and go from there. :puzzled:


Don't say it... I've already been told that I am > :loco: I have way too many screws loose to be safe to ride as if you are telling me something new.

 

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I wish I was intelligent enough to contribute
to a project such as this.....
The only one I know that could help you is
Marlin Bially ( thats probaly spelled wrong)
He is Ridgeracer on bikeland , and he hacked
the 16 bit ecu on the zx12....
He has a website but I'll have to find a link to it
I'm sure that if Kawasaki had not killed
the zx12, the 32 bit ecu would have been
hacked also.....
Since you have a ecu that you can interface
it shouldn't be as difficult
 

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Well, the 14 ecu has been hacked now, so you may find that this project is more headache than it is worth. But if the race ecu has some special features, then I can see it being viable. Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Guys.

Na, this is just a hobby. I've been keeping up on Ridge's work and try to convey what I've played with to Ridge and whoever wants to read what they can get out of it. This is more like, "Advanced Troubleshooting," electrically speaking. Everything so far can be found on the net as far as the kit-ECU software, the manuals and all that.

But without the whole kit to create the download, i.e., the kit-ECU, piggy harnesses, then the extra $$$ ECU-to-Computer 'cables' you need to communicate with, I am stuck with a box stock ZX-10 preset just like the 14.

So, this is more a loophole to gain access into what Ridge might have as far as matching the software. This has some trick adjustments and two ways to plot the fuel trim, just for starters.

One way can be tried, where you can drag a line between 1,000 rpm's. The second selection is where you can set fuel numbers in the decimals, meaning, if you add a + 10? on say a PC grid block, you can write +9.36 as your incremental feed. I used this as just a number out of the air. And with all the PC maps I've downloaded, read how the grids are numbered, there are none I've seen that have numbers that range in the .01 to .99. The kit is capable to set a grid number to make say, the kit writes a +9.99, or 9.50 say. Where you are stuck with a + 10 on the PC.

Anyway, I'll just show you my progression and if we collectively butt our heads together, we can probably solve a few things. This is more a learning process.

Gotta bore you bringing up the old days, where I would hand build a total loss wire harness for racing. Or, setup an old British bike to run with a Zener diode and Lucas capacitor. Stuff like that.

We fast forward and here is the future. We are handcuffed with the high tech. That is more of the same routine in my head, where as if I were to race a computer bike, this would be my attempt at the same old stuff. I cannot get racing out of my system. I take a urine test and that racing cheat meter runs in the red zone.

More or less, I am trying to 'kill two birds.' Here is this morning's work where I'm about to head out to a printer, enlarge the page so I can make notes and follow the path a little bit cleaner.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm looking at close to 2am, so I shut down shop for some winks. I'm at a study point and it looks like I can tackle this two ways.

There is a quick and dirty way or the long hard way. I'm going to try the long hard way, see how far I can take this wire harness down to the bare minimum.

I have that chopper with a bad kick pawl that is all chewed up. Poor asian junk could not take the compression. Add the green behind the ears, is the squid at the kicker and you can imagine what that new trans must be going through. Now I have to run around for a longer kicker at some custom shop. See if that helps lock the pawl better at the throw down.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Updates:

We had to square away that chopper to start somehow or ruin the gear box with another set of kicker pawls. We installed the new kicker gears and decided an electric starter setup was the only way out. Now, the electric motor pops that engine off with a push of a button. Bike's engine is oil tight and and surprisingly bulletproof. The breather is another story. Other than a broken sissy bar on one side and hard to keep a tail light filament from popping on the other side, it just runs and runs like no tomorrow.


ZI have this delicious field fix for the 14, where I would almost bet the Connie would benefit from it too.
Anyway, my sponsor was gracious enough to loan me his dyno for my little experiments. It will take me awhile to learn the basics. Well, that's about it as I continue to chase that elusive wire. More updates to follow if anyone is interested on improving the herd.
 
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