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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 and want to see about having a higher flow/ capacity rad done. I am sick of sitting in traffic around staring at the temp gauge watching the needle rise and rise. This is sort of the make or break point with me and this bike. If I can't get this to be a useable city bike then it is going to get kicked to the curb.

I've done all the forum mods and the bike still got really hot a couple times this summer.

I googled motorcycle rad repair /fabrication in North America and so far haven't been able to find anyone who is interested.

I just heard back from a shop in the UK who can do it. They need a stock item to use as a template for mounting points and fittings. Does anybody in the UK have a 2000 /2001 rad that is damaged but good enough to use for this??

I REALLY do not want to ship my perfect stock unit due to the high risk of shipping damage and the added expense. The rough estimate was 500 to 600 pounds which makes it about $1000 Cdn landed. That's about the most I'm willing to sink into this.

If anyone can help I'll buy the thing from you and pay for the shipping to the rad shop.
OR
If somebody in Canada ( preferred) or the US knows of a business who could do a rad up, I'd love to hear about them.

Thanks
Kevin
 

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please list the mods you have done to aid cooling, i bet theres a couple more that could be done
 

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Google PWR radiators in Australia, I'm pretty sure they make them for A model ZX12s
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info Steve. I did send an email to one company in Australia but never heard back. I'll have to see if it was those guys. If it wasn't, I'll give them a try.


Scott
I have done the following:
I flushed the system several times while I had everything apart to install a header on the bike.
I used Motul factory antifreeze ( the expensive stuff) that is supposed to have a really high boiling point.
I did the manual fan switch.
I bought a Muzzy fan but it turned out not to fit but to return it from Canada would have cost as much as buying it so I just put the stocker back on.
I filled the system slowly burped it then ran it for about 5 or so minutes with the rad cap off topping it up as the level dropped. Ran the bike then it was dyno'ed. After that , I checked the level and topped it up a tiny bit and hung the plastic back on.

I'm ready to try about anything to get this bike to run cooler. Let's face it , it does not get that hot where I ride. Where I had the problem, it was in traffic and the temp was 32C or there abouts.

Thanks for any help you can offer
KB
 

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Have you replaced the thermostat.If not and you try you will be hating life if the engine is not out of the frame..........
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't play with the thermostat. It seems to function perfectly on the highway and in cooler weather. The temp gauge sits at about 8:00 on the highway when the air temp is about 20 to 25 C and closer to 9:00 if it is warmer than that.

Slingshot - cool - I'm open to any and all ideas. I'm certainly not looking forward to spending 1 K on a rad build. However, I have so much non-recoverable funds in this pig I don't want to give up unless I have to.

Thanks
Kevin
 

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how did the muzzy fan not fit? ive put on a few

outlaw rad cap (higher pressure)

wrapping the header all the way past the oil pan, really cuts down on heat transfer to the motor
 

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more cooling

Does the later model rad. with dual fans fit easily? and a 1.1 bar rad cap would help (stock nissan I think). I would think that would add cooling capacity for way less than a $1000 custom rad. I like the wrapping or coating the header, although I doubt I would spend money on a stock exhaust.

oops just saw you replaced header. I got mine ceramic coated (to save the plastics) but have yet to run it so ??????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-Kawasaki-ZX12-ZX1200-ZX12R-Ninja-Radiator-Cooler-w-Fans-Assembly-Nice-/271182509590?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f23bcb616&vxp=mtr
 

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Does the later model rad. with dual fans fit easily?
rad fits ok, fans dont. thats why they changed the motor mounts in the second gen, to fit 2 fans
i have a pic somewhere showing the fan and mounts and why theres no room with the early mounts, but cant find it...
 

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Have you checked the t-stat and fanstat for proper operation? I mean, not to state the obvious, but the motorcycle should not need an upgraded cooling system in that climate. I believe you likely have a more basic problem and that the system is not operating as designed.
 

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1.3bar Oh

I was thinking older 900 was 0.9 and 1.1 was an upgrade, didnt realize technology had changed, Ill crawl back under my rock now.:tard:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
KZ Scott
The fan was an interference fit against the rad itself. I played with it and even trimmed the edges of the blades, but no way. So I just chucked it in a corner and put the stock fan back on.

I could try header wrapping I suppose. The header is a SS Hindle unit so it will take it.

I was thinking about ordering a new rad cap. I may as well do it for the price.

I have been running the fan on pure manual so I do know it is working. I just turn it on as soon as the needle goes to around 10:00 on the dial. For short lights and what not it works well but 3 -4 long lights in a row and nope - goes to 11:00 and I get off the road to let it cool. I got stuck in a LONG traffic jam and the bike got hot enough when I pulled off, the gauge was starting to flash.

Warp - what ever, the bike is a pain in my butt as it is. I have had a competent mech. look and didn't find anything so..... I'm at this stage.

I'll see how the header wrap & new high pressure cap goes in the spring. Seeing as I'm getting no responses in N America for rad fab, if the wrap & cap don't fix it, it will probably go down the road.

I emailed Steve's guy and haven't heard anything back, so 0 for 2 in Oz.

What got me started down this path was the cheap Chinese rad guys had a 30% higher capacity rad for $130 but only for the 2002 and up. I was going to buy one an see if it sorted out the problems,then go get a good one made if it did. BUT those guys don't do the 2000/2001 series mounting. Then I just started to look for a good one right off the top.

KB
 

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My 12 heats up, and the fan turns on, and the needle sits at 11 o'clock position. But that is the only thing it does, and once I start moving it falls back to 9 o'clock and stays there. I am not disturbed by it. Of course I have waterless coolant in mine that won't boil, but aren't you overthinking it? If you are afraid it will boil over (does it, ever?) then put Evans in it and ride it.
Of course if you just want another bike that is another story.
 

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This is sort of the make or break point with me and this bike.
No offense Kevin, but have you ever had a boil over? Ever blow a hose off? Ever hear one thread after the other about cooling issues and it is more the owner than the bike warming up, and all of a sudden the fan comes on?

No offense Kevin, but have there ever been any recall issues with the cooling systems of most water cooled bikes? I've heard rods blowing thru cases when new and all that, but a coolent blowing onto the rider, scalding hot anshit?

No offense kevin, but are you a little something like 2 ounces short of a shot glass full? That make sense to you now, I wanna reach around and pour more into the bike, I have a problem, the bike does not? :puzzled:

:rotflmao:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It may be that these run hotter than I like and I am "over thinking"it. However, it's my bike and I'm going to get it working to my satisfaction.

I had a PM from a forum member who put me onto a company who can make a higher flow rad. I am in contact with them finalizing purchase of one. I'll still do the suggested other "fixes" - header tape and the higher pressure rad cap. Thanks to those who suggested them.

To hubz14 - that's rich coming from you, the resident lunatic. Piss off

KB
 

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i have a guy with a mild 1287. he doesnt have heat issues. muzzy fan, no header wrap (ti)
i would suspect that you have a problem somewhere. have you actually checked the tstat suspended in hot water? 1 more thing, on the back of the head theres a tiny line above the tstat. the steel fitting can rust shut if used with just water. if this is plugged its near impossible to get all the air out of the system. easy check is to pop the rad cap off and see if coolant is coming from the line(running)
 

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To hubz14 - that's rich coming from you, the resident lunatic. Piss off

KB
KB, You are more or less insulting the engineering, the formula, the fluid, the mass of the rad, the fin count, the engine block, etc., all that causes overheating and there are very few if none. Have you ever overheated? No.

You pull the thermostat, she cools too much = No HP. :puzzled: You don't get it. PISS??? Piss the paper out of your wallet.... Ain't my bike! To me, you look stupid rather than me thinking the engineers are the dumb ones. I have to choose and who do you think makes more sense?

:king: Mother teapot has yet to sell an overheating bike, yes or no?

:crazyloco: Signed, the nut case withouthought

Pee. Yes.
I took the plastic off thinking the bike would cool down more. Guess what? I have the same bar count as other overheater complainers w/fairing. There is no constant fan moving over the engine like a car. Once moving air happens again, the bars lower.

The fan comes on under a certain temp, the formula is so OVER thought out, then joe-I have a problem comes along, convince themselves there is a problem.

:crackup: Some bike owners are going to reengineer the bike and where is your formula for that radiator thinking it's going to help/work? Only the head game will tell soon enough if you wasted money or not. And now it's too cool to make any HP.

HP is made between 240-260F. Dyno runs show that. So here you are with a 210 max heat sync. Good luck. Why?

Signed,

NOLTT (do some research about heat and HP) :crazyloco: :crackup:
 
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