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Discussion Starter #1
Guys been told by a friend that he used this nut/bolt on the frame to adjust hes rear ride height some years ago on the 12r ,as this is what the top of the shock fixes to i can see hes reasoning as he said he undone the bolt droped the whole rear suspension down placed a spacer on said part then put it back up through the frame and bolted it back up hence raising the ride height ?
would this be correct gents as want mine to turn in a bit sharper ....
 

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Guys been told by a friend that he used this nut/bolt on the frame to adjust hes rear ride height some years ago on the 12r ,as this is what the top of the shock fixes to i can see hes reasoning as he said he undone the bolt droped the whole rear suspension down placed a spacer on said part then put it back up through the frame and bolted it back up hence raising the ride height ?
would this be correct gents as want mine to turn in a bit sharper ....
I'm pretty sure I've read that being on done on here a while back.
People have also achieved the same thing by using 190/55 rear tyre and some more so with a 120/60 on the front too.
You could also put the forks through the yoke a bit.
Do too much and you'll wish you had a steering damper. Unless you use the rear storage for spare underpants.

If you haven't gone for the 190/55 rear tyre I would suggest trying it as it makes a hell of a difference to the bike. Especially tall ones like the Pirelli DRC.
 

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I did it to mine way back in the day and it work good.....Kawasaki actually makes a "kit" with various size shims......i think I used the 4mm. The shims are "U" shaped and were expensive. You could make your own out of some large OD washers. Loosen the top bolt, drop the shock mount down a little bit and slide the shim in and tighten it all back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replys guys,any one have a clue as to what size spacer i should use /start with please ?
 

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I did it to mine way back in the day and it work good.....Kawasaki actually makes a "kit" with various size shims......i think I used the 4mm. The shims are "U" shaped and were expensive. You could make your own out of some large OD washers. Loosen the top bolt, drop the shock mount down a little bit and slide the shim in and tighten it all back up.
thanks for the replys guys,any one have a clue as to what size spacer i should use /start with please ?

a couple big flat washers should work
 

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If you're doing this mod for the circuit it's useless.If you're doing it for the road it's ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
thanks for the replys gents and also the opinions ,the bikes used for the road only and as creedxup has said it should make the bike handle better for myself .
also fitted my ABM handle bar conversion today and have to say its a much better rideing position for myself as im a bit too old to be stooped over the tank with my stomach hitting the tank and have aching wrists lol!
PS the braded lines that came with the kit and the bleeding /cleaning of the whole system has made the brakes work realy good now so thats another bonus to this kit !
 

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What's useless about making the bike handle more to your liking ???

If it allows you to ride better, it's just as useful on the road or the track.
It's useless cause different things happen on the road and different on the track.
It might give you sharper feeling but it doesnt mean faster laps.
You might get a better dive in but if you do not have suspension knowledge you'll loose on the exit.
And don tell me "oh no prob i have a steering damper",on each MGP race you see the bikes accelerating while leaned with the front on the air and riders strugling to keep the bikes in shape.If you can do that then you need to apply to Honda for a spot!

All of the above do not apply on the road.After a three or four sessions on a good circuit you'll need a new front tyre while on the road after a fast ride you might need a new rear tyre...


It is a hype that with mods you'll get better lap times.It needs knowledge and strategy.
As i have said before,looking at the specs of the 916 you'll see that the wheelbase,the head angle and weight do not resemble todays sport bikes.How was it fast??Narrow crank,good suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks gents, done this today and took the bike for a little spin and yes it has made a noticable differance and im pleased i done this
 

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The correct way to adjust ride height according to Kawasaki is to do it in the spot circled in the first post picture with the U shaped shims that Kawasaki actually sells.. Now with that said Kawasaki is INSANE for what they charge for those U shaped shims in their race lit parts catalog. You can buy a set of the exact same U shaped shims at Harbor Freight for less than five bucks that work perfect for the job. They require only slight opening up that's easily done with a rotary file chucked in a die grinder. Most everyone has these tools in their shop anyway. If you don't you can use a drill motor and do the same thing and if you don't have that use anything you got to grind them open a bit.. It's a very small amount. The really easy way to raise your ride height is turning the adjustment on your after market rear shock if you happen to be lucky enough to have that..
 

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How much have people been raising the rear with good results? Raised mine about 5mm yesterday, haven't had a chance to test it out yet. The 200 S20 Bridgestone rear tyre isn't helping my handling either, time to buy a Pilot Power 3..
 

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Raising means raising the center of weight.Why not drop 3mm the front?It decreases the wheelbase lowers the center of weight.

You could also push the rear wheel as close to the engine as possible,it also decrases wheelbase/lowers center of weight AND increses the head angle but thats no problem in the end.

Thing is that pushing rear wheel isn't always possible.The chain length may be an issue and different gearing might not fix this.Unless you want to grind the swingarm..

In the end,there are many vids,many people that will tell you that it's not the bike but the rider.If you end up not going fast on a 12,buy onother bike,don't even bother.

In my opinion a screwdriver and money for gas is that will make you go faster,no spacers,no easy fixes or expensive suspension.
 

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is the standard side stand ok to use with this mod or do you have to alter it?:headscratch:
I put 2x5mm washer in mine. Washers won't fall out. Having done this, the side stand is short and the bike looks like its about to fall over on it, but it won't unless you leave your bike on soft tarmac. Having said that I fitted a longer sidestand from a zx9 I think. I had to do a fair bit of swapping of bits for one reason or another, the rest plate does not quite rest flat though, but close enough.
 
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