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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the 12 some new shoes, will be here tomorrow but not mounted until after dyno run on Thursday. In the past I have used various methods of "scuffing in" my new tires (i.e. steel wool, stiff bristled brush, sandpaper and of course riding). I have even seen others use torches! Seems like backwards logic to me but they weren't my tires. Just wondering if you have any secrets you wouldn't mind sharing. Always nice to get a head start breaking in new treads especially in colder weather conditions.

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A torch sound's like a bad idea. I wish someone could explain

the logic in that method. I alway's up for new idea's. The problem

with scuffing the tire's rideing is the edge's. I don't have the nerve

to scuff them on the road in a full lean. A sander is the way to go.<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">



What brand of tire did you go with?





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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree I am always a little nervous about scuffing to the edge and the 200's were a bitch! I now find a nice open parking lot like a mall and do tight circles leaning 'til I'm dragging the knee with decreasing radii unitil I scuff the entire tread width. I ususally repeat this everytime I go out until I feel he tires are well worn all over. It's also a great way to warm up the tires. Luckily for me I live next to a mall.



The torched tires look bad too. The torched portion actually rises like a scar. That can't increase traction.



I went with Dunlop 207RR front and rear. 190 on the rear, stock sizing up front. Should be a vast improvement over the OEM 207R Sportmax. I'll post when I've put some miles on the new rubber and cite the differences.

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What was the cost in the 207RR's.... What the difference between 207's and them???? I just got a pair of 207's front and rear for 252 dollars... 207RR's higher and better??????? Just thinking of next time..... Have a feeling may need a tire after Daytona bike week.....

The Green Monster............</p>
 

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I've been caught out before with new tyres, Very expensive. What I do now is before I ride with new rubber is take some course sandpaper and scuff all over the tyre, don't rub too hard or you'll shorten an already short life for miles. When you have finished take a petrol soaked rag and wipe around all of the tyre, you will see that it lifts all of the wax coating off the tyre. If you like you can give it another light scuff with the sandpaper. The tyre should not feel slippy any more, but remember it is not a sure fix for riding slowly for a short while to get some heat into the rubber before you start getting your knee down.

Later....................

coach.

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I always just found some soft sand or dirt and spun the rear tire a bit (slow) until the sides get scuffed. For the front i just clean it with dishwashing soap. After that I just drive it normal for 50 miles. This may not be the best method but it's always worked for me.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Richard,

The 207RR are a different compund than the 207 OEMs. It is a softer compound similar to the GP tires. It doesn't have the geometry of a race tire though so it's still streetable and stable at speed. It also has a different tread pattern than the OEM 207. I got them through cyclemall.net for $275 front and rear. Not bad huh? Especially since my local Kawi dealer wanted $250 for just a 207R rear. BTW, they only make the 207RR rear in a 180 and 190 so I'm downsizing to the 190. Front is only made in stock size. You should check out the tire review article on here. The RR did rather well.



I think I'll stick to my tried and tested method of scuffing new tires. Sandpaper, soapy water and then slow circles at the mall. Maybe I'll race the mall security and their Jeep around the mall a few times. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol">

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The best place to scrub in new tires is at an old airfield!!! The best surface is CONCRETE you get the best traction!!! Thats why all the airfields are concrete... BE CAREFUL...





CrotchRocket

" I just live my life a 1/4 mile at a time "</p>
 

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I would prefer the mall idea better than the canyons, except there doesn't seem to be enough area clear of those pesky painted parking stripes. I feel as nervous about hitting those at sharp lean on fresh rubber as I do cornering in the oil grove or on black ice.



][cee

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Hey, are you guys installing new tires or getting a dealer to install them? Dealers have always given me a hard time about installing tires I didn't buy from them. Last time they installed tires they f'ed up my rims on another bike. Made me mad!

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I've been using Scotchbrite pads in course or they are sometimes call synthetic steel wool. I put the bike on the pit stand and put it in first then I get an even scuff all around the rear tire. The pads are long enough to reach from one side to the other so it dos not take long at all. The front isn't bad either using the pad and it takes all of about 10 minutes to do the job.

Cops are always looking for RED so it must be the fastest color...........

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My dealer said no problem I can't compete with that price... My cost is more than that.... So no problems..... As far as the mechanic goes John is a Kawasaki nut so he wouldn't hurt a 12 intentionally. His personal bike is a ZX-11. He is the only mechanic as it is a small shop.... Another plus he's done it at least 15 years I know of.....................

The Green Monster............</p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Varmint-that's a good idea, think I'll try that as well.



Richard- I don't think any dealer would intentionally hurt your bike. That's dangerous. They will however jack you on the mounting prices.



Tires were waiting for me when I got back from my ride today (is this a good day or what?) and I just scuffed them with sandpaper but they are definitely not as slick as the OEM 207s just to the touch.

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Mark, I've seen so many rim's scratched it's not even funny.

I make it clear from the start "Careful with the rim's". I tell them

I'll pay more for the extra time it take's to be careful. Accident's

happen, but careless work won't cut it.



Richard, If your dealer's cost is more than that he should have

a talk with his supplier, or get online. You know what I mean?

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rich- fair is anywhere from $10-20 per wheel. Some may charge a little more but don't let them rape you and charge like $30 or more per wheel. I always stick around and watch when they mount the tires too. You can tell when someone doesn't what they're doing. Better to find out in the shop than on the road at triple digit speeds.

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There is no need to "scuff in" new tires! The only thing that makes new tires slick is the "wax stuff", called cosmolene, that is put on them at the factory to protect them durring shipping/storage. The way to remove the cosmolene is to put the tire thru a couple of good heat cycles. When the tires reach operating temp, the cosmolene becomes soft and eventually "falls" off of the tire. Dealers will recommend puting 100 miles on new tires before you start getting aggresive in turns. However, at the track, a good hot lap or two, ie fast in the straights and carfull in the corners, is enough to remove all the cosmolene, then you are good to go.



"Scuffing tires in" also removes the cosmolene, but ultimately heat is what gets all of it off, hence people using a torch!

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IMHO - The Harley shops seem to be more careful with cosmetics than other shops. I've never noticed scratches, finger prints, oil, etc. on my bike when I get it back from them. I wish I could get them to install tires on the 12. Honda shop put both front and rear tires on the CBX and gouged both rims in several places. This bike was 20 years old and did not have a single scratch on the rims until then. They said, "Sorry 'bout that... Two tires and labor... It'll be $300."

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