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not apart yet, but pistons ordered through work

yes i use actual rubber o rings for the inspection plates.
You got a size for the oring? Or you just did a bit of trial and error? Im just looking at ditching the useless foam one
 

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Great build, I actually read this one before I knew who you were Scott, didn’t pay attention to names. Just reread almost entirely again, had a question about your kleen air removal...howd you route the hoses and do you gotta do anything about the reeds or just cover them up? I’m going to make some plates tomorrow with some stainless stock we have at work.


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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
so finally getting back to this, I have it all stripped down and a bunch of work done. the head survived, but the block and 2 pistons are hurt. ill set this head aside for now as i have another one ready to go. I had carpenter o ring a couple for me and i port them myself, so this bike is getting a decent hand ported head that should have no issues sealing up with lots of boost. the int doesnt need much, but i really open up the exh ports.

its also getting a set of my custom beehive valve springs that I have successfully ran in 2 other bikes now (dads 460 hp turbo and the 260 hp na 1427) , so its time to let that secret out slightly. if you want a set pm me as i had a few sets made to keep cost down a little.

ive done a bunch of the oil system modifications that proved to do wonders in the 1427 (100 psi on 5w30) . lots of porting on the cases and pump etc to prevent cavitation and help with oil flow, along with the usual addition of extra oil jets to spray the pistons. ive also done something experimental and now have an oil jet directly spraying the inside of the cam chain as we know the chain in 12s and 14s like to kink up. this one is so its getting replaced. i feel like it may be a lack of lube, or lack of heat dissipation issue, which if thats the case, my oil jet should at least help with. lightening up the mass of the valve train also helps, which the new springs and machined retainers do quite well. ive enlarged the oil passages to the area that is feeding my cam chain oil jet so robbing pressure there shouldnt be an issue. all of these things ultimately have the potential of the oil getting pumped out of the pan at a faster rate than before, and not knowing if its draining back as fast lead me to add some extra capacity so theres more of a reserve to use from.

im putting in new outside main bearings, but the rest of the mains were fine and are going back in. the rod bearings would likely be ok to keep going in a stocker for a long long time, but seeing as how i plan on turning it up, i will do new bearings in them. the crank looks great.

the trans also looks great, with the exception of need a shift fork, but i have a used back cut trans with a low first gear sitting in my spare parts that i will be using. i like the low first gear as you get a similar gear ratio as stock for pulling out with taller lsr gearing on.

since i no longer have to worry about having a turbo system that wont boost creep, ive also made myself a new merge style header that bolts up the the existing kit. (old header sold a couple days after listing it). a regular stage 1 style header sacrifices some flow potential for waste gate priority. this is important as it keeps stock motors alive (if you dont turn it up) and helps race kits be predictable. as in not not pulling a big wheelie in first gear and having to short shift. its easy enough to make 600+ hp on a std turbo header with the right build (ive done it at work plenty of times on customers bikes) but a merge style will make a bit more power in the entire rev range at the same boost (and when its not making boost at low rpm). for a street bike, i think i would like to have that gain down low, and i wont be drag racing, so a wheelie at the top of first when its making more boost than the waste gate is telling it to will be fine. plus they look cool :p

the 415cc inj will be coming out and will be for sale, i have some 550s going in.















 

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Discussion Starter #84
Out with the old and in with the new!
 

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Real Pretty! Upgrades are the best!!!
Do automatic upgrades automatically come in the mail when someone has one of your previous designs.... :0

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Not much done, been busy with other stuff, but got a high flow fuel rail installed. Pretty easy to do. Just drill the existing hole a bit deeper with a 7/16 bit and carefully thread it 1/4 npt. The stock regulator will still be used on the other side.

Trying to decided if I want to do water inj or go all out and intercool this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
No going back now.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
So i fully plan on either trying this bike at loring or letting my old man try it there so it will need a damper. Better to get that issue out of the way before i get too far. A couple threaded bosses welded into the frame will do the trick. No more nuts to deal with, not like you can even get your hand in there now lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Filled the system with water and pumped it up to 20 psi. No leaks! Woohoo!
So how far should i push this on 87 octane? 😉 I'll put in 93 or 94 for race days with a bit more boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Pistons are in and I gave them the usual sanding down on hot spots and a polish.
 

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Filled the system with water and pumped it up to 20 psi. No leaks! Woohoo!
So how far should i push this on 87 octane? 😉 I'll put in 93 or 94 for race days with a bit more boost.
Tremendous work here!! Have you done the coolant nipples out the bottom before?

cmg
 

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Pistons are in and I gave them the usual sanding down on hot spots and a polish.
This is real important. My first tuner had my bike at 15:1 at almost peak tq. Pulled the plugs and sent a camera in to have a look.
Scotts prep on the pistons before he sent them to me (along with good fuel) saved the day. Pistons looked good. Was able to retune and now good to go!!! 🙂

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter #94
yes i have. still undecided on pump location though. ill sort it out once the bike is back together. might end up making a new overflow jug to gain some room.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
after running into an issue with the cam chain and having to work backwards for a bit, the motor is almost done, just the starter and clutch left.
i had grabbed what i thought was a gently used stock cam chain from my spares after taking out the very kinked chain. i quickly compared it to the "good" chain and thought that skips had stretched badly. that turned out to be wrong. when attempting to put the cams in, the new chain was too short! took it out and unbagged a new chain and the new chain was longer, basically the same as what came out of skip. so the unknown chain is now a mystery. it appears to be oem kawasaki by the look and markings on the links, and it fits the sprockets perfectly. im thinking that it may be a zx11 chain as i did a motor for a guy yrs(7 or 8) ago out of 2 busted engines. the jet ski motor thats based on the 12 engine has a chain that is longer, i know the zx14 chains are longer and dont fit the sprockets, the busa chain is longer and doesnt fit the sprockets. any of you work with many zx11s?
I knew i shouldnt have tried to be cheap and just ran the new chain from the get go lol
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Ready to go back in some night this week and then I can finalize the water lines and heat exchanger set up.

As a recap this motor has the following.
Ported head by me, o-ringed by Carpenter racing. My custom beehive valve springs and machined smaller/lighter stock retainers. Stock cams at stock settings. Drop in Wossner pistons with my prep and polish treatment. APE cylinder studs at 70lbs. Cometic hg. Stock rods and stock crank. New rod bearings. New cam chain with a dedicated oil jet. 2 additional oil jets so that all 4 pistons get sprayed (oem configuration only sprays 2). Shimmed relief valve. Ported inlet and outlet of the oil pump. An extra section added to the oil pan for a bit of extra capacity. Unknown back cut trans with billet low first gear. It was in a bike Henry and I parted out. I used it a season in my red bike. 1 new shift fork. Billet clutch basket with my oiling mods done to the hub. 3 hd clutch springs (may or may not be enough?)

I think that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
With some help from the gf we got the motor back in its home tonight. Hopefully have it running on the wknd
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Skip is alive once again! i still have some things to wrap up before the dyno, but its really close!

Im really happy with the oil pressure. the porting of the pump is something ill be doing on every build from now on. even with the 3 additional oil jets and the turbo robbing oil pressure, with 5w40 i have 30 psi at 1100 cold. and warmed up i have 100 psi at 10k!! forgot to check warm idle psi.

I decided that i wanted to get rid of the cheaper foam air filter as it interfered with the body work, and i wasnt sure i trusted it to flow enough for 325 hp or whatever i end up pushing this bike to. the short filters we use on stage 1 and 2 kits at work have been used up to 505 hp so i went with one of those. it didnt fit with the oil filter (could have used a relocator) so i cut and angled the inlet of the turbo to tip it away, and to match the angle of the body work. now the body fits without cutting a hole for a filter so its going to be maximum stealth 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
more
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Dyno day tmrw!
 

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